Waterless Coolant Anyone?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
During my annual routine maintenance I am considering changing my coolant to a waterless coolant which doesn't pressurise or boil until 180 degrees C keeping the engine at a much more consistent temperature. As its waterless it also has no corrosive aspects saving the water pump and pipes etc from ware.
My question is anybody running waterless coolant or can think why it wouldn't be a good idea.
Example
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evans-Powe...item2c6309331b
Cheers guys.
Jack
During my annual routine maintenance I am considering changing my coolant to a waterless coolant which doesn't pressurise or boil until 180 degrees C keeping the engine at a much more consistent temperature. As its waterless it also has no corrosive aspects saving the water pump and pipes etc from ware.
My question is anybody running waterless coolant or can think why it wouldn't be a good idea.
Example
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evans-Powe...item2c6309331b
Cheers guys.
Jack
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No Water - No Overheating
Power Cool 180° has a boiling point of 180°C and will not boilover.
Power Cool 180° has a boiling point of 180°C and will not boilover.
Only situation where you can get benefit's, are when engine is all ready overheated (to boiling point of stock coolant).
No Water - No Corrosion
Water contains oxygen, oxygen allows corrosion. Race Cool 180 eliminates corrosion.
Water contains oxygen, oxygen allows corrosion. Race Cool 180 eliminates corrosion.
Just make sure to change the fluid's at given interval.
No Water - No Pressure
Power Cool 180° allows your cooling system to run at a lower pressure, reducing the strain on engine components.
Power Cool 180° allows your cooling system to run at a lower pressure, reducing the strain on engine components.
No Water - No Liner Pitting
Power Cool 180° generates significantly less pitting when compared with all water based coolants.
Power Cool 180° generates significantly less pitting when compared with all water based coolants.
No Water - More BHP
Power Cool 180° eliminates premature detonation associated with overheating
Power Cool 180° eliminates premature detonation associated with overheating
If you track your car a lot, I think that it might be ok to use.
But for a road car, IMHO, waste of money.
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
While I'm not familiar with this "fluid" or its properties, I assume it would simply be substituted for anti-freeze/water. While it may offer superior heat transfer properties among others, I would be hesitant to use any product that fundementally differs from manufacturer recommendations.
As most rennlisters know, Porsche engineers are not infallible but, hey guys, we all must accept they're pretty smart and experienced about most things.
My 2cents worth.
relinuca
As most rennlisters know, Porsche engineers are not infallible but, hey guys, we all must accept they're pretty smart and experienced about most things.
My 2cents worth.
relinuca
#4
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
Thanks for your comments.
I suppose where I was coming from was you should change your coolant every 2 years or so as the chemicals break down and. bla bla bla
If I changed it to a waterless coolant then it never needs to be changed again.
But I take your comments on board. Porsche aren’t exactly recommending it!
I do drive my car like I have stolen it so it does get quite hot.
Maybe I'll loose my licence before I need to change my coolant again so it a moot point
Thanks for your comments.
I suppose where I was coming from was you should change your coolant every 2 years or so as the chemicals break down and. bla bla bla
If I changed it to a waterless coolant then it never needs to be changed again.
But I take your comments on board. Porsche aren’t exactly recommending it!
I do drive my car like I have stolen it so it does get quite hot.
Maybe I'll loose my licence before I need to change my coolant again so it a moot point
#6
Racer
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Porsche claims the coolant is good for a lifetime! One of the first things I did when I purchased my 2000 996 in April of 2011 was to change all the fluids, including the coolant. The service interval for coolant changes did not exist in my manual, said good for lifetime. When I questioned my Porsche Service Manger about this, he stated that with an all aluminium engine block, the coolant does not go bad.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I used Evans when I used to race bikes. It's expensive, but the bike uses very little coolant. I paid $60 for a 4L jug, so that would be almost $400 to fill a 996. (edit...that was 8 years ago!)
Tee real problem with Evans is the purging process. You need to ensure there is NO WATER left in the system....which usually mean a complete fill and drain, at least once. So really, you're looking at almost $800 to switch. On my bike, it was $120.
It was great on my race bike. It ran 10 degrees C cooler every race day. On a race engine, when you get heat soaked, 10 degrees makes a difference.
On the street, not as much. YMMV
Tee real problem with Evans is the purging process. You need to ensure there is NO WATER left in the system....which usually mean a complete fill and drain, at least once. So really, you're looking at almost $800 to switch. On my bike, it was $120.
It was great on my race bike. It ran 10 degrees C cooler every race day. On a race engine, when you get heat soaked, 10 degrees makes a difference.
On the street, not as much. YMMV
Last edited by seanmcr6; 10-17-2012 at 01:36 PM. Reason: adding comments
Trending Topics
#10
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If freezing is not a problem, use something like a water wetter and straight distilled water, your best "coolant". (change often, meant mainly for track/race conditions not DD)
Many coolant mfgs say lifetime is defined as anywhere from 5-10 years. Can it last longer? Sure... if your coolant is 10 years old use the test strips and a hydrometer and see what the condition is.
Many coolant mfgs say lifetime is defined as anywhere from 5-10 years. Can it last longer? Sure... if your coolant is 10 years old use the test strips and a hydrometer and see what the condition is.
#11
Drifting
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes
on
15 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Water cools engines faster and better than anything. Thats why in hot climates less percentage of coolant is needed and in cold climates less percantage of water is needed. Now if you live in Northern Canada or Alaska then use it if you want. Just saw you are in the UK. I am from there and it never gets cold enough there like it does in Alaska and Northern Canada. One poster said that he used it on motor bikes. Bikes are open the air more than the water systems on a car angine. I wouldn't use it. I would rather change coolant parts due to rust or corrosion than to change the engine. Anyway rip the front of your car and clean the **** out from between the rads and the condensors if you havent already. That should keep the engine cool enough for you in the UK. ![nono](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/nono.gif)
![nono](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/nono.gif)
![nono](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/nono.gif)