rmc1148

I have my wife do it naked while I eat cheese dootles.

Akshun

I use Autoglym, detailer, polish and eagle one tire shine.
invisible glass seems to work fine for the windows.
Never thought about the top, hmmmmm, guess i should look around.

MiamiC70

I pay someone else's wife to do it naked while I eat cheese doodles

Kazual99

Thought I saw you at Autobell

Tim Wasmer

Ok Gang. Here is an issue i am fighting.

On my Midnight Blue car I can buff it swirl free and re-apply waxes. I have tried a few things (Mothers, Adams, Rejex etc.) but when I wash the car again by hand with a soft wool (clean) mit (lots of suds and light pressure) it is swirled again. I think I need a harder wax. Any thoughts?

rmc1148

So thats what my wife was doing in miamil

Kazual99

alpine003

First off if you're using waxes to merely "hide" the swirl marks, you should really try to do a 2 or 3 stage polish on it first to knock down the swirls as much as you can without taking off the clearcoat.

Also not sure what kind of car soap you're using.

I'm not sure what kind of waxes you're using but I've generally found off the shelf waxes to be inferior in durability to some of the synthetic sealants and waxes you can get elsewhere.

On my wife's Orient Blue BMW(similiar to Midnight Blue) I found the sealers like Klasse to work well, when layered a couple times, at masking fine scratches and generally lasts at least 3 months if not longer.

You might want to try something like Collinite 845 as it's a carnuba/synthetic mix so it still provides a good amount of depth that you can get from traditional carnuba waxes. Collinite makes more heavy duty waxes but these are hard to put on and take off and generally not worth the effort for most people.

I like to add:
Lexol for Leathers
Tuff Shine for Wheel Dressing(best I've tried so far for satin and non oily dressing that lasts the longest)
Collinite 845 also works great as a wheel wax as well

rmc1148

Seriously I have not driven my car in the 2 a half months of ownership other then droping off and picking it up from shop to get clear bra. I have 13 acres of land to tend to and a house that one section is circa 1850 and the log addition is older,so a lot of upkeep.I drive my A4 when I can but mostly my f350 or rav 4 running errands.Hopefully things will slow down and I will take the time to enjoy it.I use a lot of different products when detailing but must say Im detail oriented and get in all the door jams ,inside trunk etc= makes the difference in my opinion.

Dennis C

Tim,

I face the same challenge with my Midnight Blue Metallic C4S. I can get it swirl-free with the polisher, but the swirl marks do come back quickly. I've found that the following things have made a big difference:

- Make sure to use the "two bucket" method when you wash (one soapy water, one clean rinse water). Make sure there are dirt traps or screens in the bottom of your buckets.
- Make sure to use a clean wash mitt - which it sounds like you do. I love the Adams merino wool wash mitt.
- Don't use microfiber towels or rags to dry the car. I have found these to really create swirl marks quickly. I use drying towels from either Griot's Garage or Adam's Polishes and they work very well.
- Use Adam's Paint Glaze after you have polished out the swirl marks and before you wax. This stuff is like magic.
- Use spray wax after each wash to keep your wax fresh and keep swirl marks down.

These are my best suggestions. They work pretty well. Overall though, I agree with you - this car is the most difficult to keep swirl-free of any car I've ever owned.

alpine003

On my black car, I will only dry the car with a microfiber towel if I'm using a spray wax or QD on it. Otherwise a leaf blower with modified tip works really well to air dry.

Anyone notice the highly visible area for scratches always seem to be the flared **** end on the top of each rear wheel well area? That's one area that bugs me the most.

MiamiC70

My buddy has same problems with his black car tough to keep some colors looking good.
My solution bought a GT SILVER car and swirl problem solved.
I mean they are probably there but I just can't see them

2K7TTMIA

I use CR spotless to eliminate the hard water, which a reputable detailer showed me in person. that alone eliminated micro-scratches to the paint.

wash with DI water, electric leaf blower, very little microfiber needed to get the remaining water.

If you are going to seal, after a good wash, then claybar, and minimal polish then seal.

to go a step further..... Opti-coat, or Opti-guard ( commercial grade). done.

alpine003

I hate you.

All I can say is glad my car is garaged and not a daily driver or else I would probably have to take on your solution too.

jdjones2010

Most of your swirl marks come from when you're drying your car off! I haven't seen anybody mention it yet but I've always heard its best to use a leaf blower to dry your car off as much as possible & then just wipe off what lil' bit's left. Its always worked for me, I don't have any swirl marks & my car's Black! jmo