Identify this engine part!
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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I need help working out what I'm looking at.
What is the engine component that you will find on the driver's side next to the mufflers and above the curve of the headers?
Here's a photo and I've outlined the component with an orange lasso.
Any help figuring out what this is would be useful. I think it's the crank casing, but I'm not sure.
The reason I ask is that I have a small, but annoying oil leak and I'm trying to figure out what it is, what's causing it and the complexity of fixing it.
Thanks in advance!
What is the engine component that you will find on the driver's side next to the mufflers and above the curve of the headers?
Here's a photo and I've outlined the component with an orange lasso.
Any help figuring out what this is would be useful. I think it's the crank casing, but I'm not sure.
The reason I ask is that I have a small, but annoying oil leak and I'm trying to figure out what it is, what's causing it and the complexity of fixing it.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Wellardmac; 04-17-2013 at 05:39 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Here's another photo from further out.
At the top of the screen is the driver's side muffler, then you see into the frame the part I circled above.
At the top of the screen is the driver's side muffler, then you see into the frame the part I circled above.
Last edited by Wellardmac; 04-17-2013 at 05:39 PM.
#4
Rennlist Member
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That is the cam cover. Very difficult to reseal with the engine in the car.
#5
Nordschleife Master
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#7
Nordschleife Master
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Thanks guys. I'm actually relieved that it's relatively minor. If I'm lucky it's just spark plug tubes and if I'm unlucky it's the seal. Any idea on labor/cost to fix and if I should get anything else done at the same time?
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Spark tubes, maybe a couple hours labor tops, the tubes are like $5 or 6 bux each, times three per side of course.
Cam cover reseal, prob more like 8-12 hours labor (engine & trans has to be dropped at least 8 inches, and best to do the work when it's completely removed)
If you have the cam cover removed, consider replacing the variocam actuator & solenoid combo ($750 part) if yours is a 3.4L. Also change the variocam pads and cam to cam chain regardless.
Buy new cam cover bolts as they are micro encapsulated meaning they come with a little sealant to prevent leaks (they are maybe $1 a piece).
Find a shop that has done this before because the application of the sealant is critical to prevent future leaks.
If the leak is not severe and you aren't losing/consuming a lot of oil maybe just live with it until an actuator needs to be replaced.
Cam cover reseal, prob more like 8-12 hours labor (engine & trans has to be dropped at least 8 inches, and best to do the work when it's completely removed)
If you have the cam cover removed, consider replacing the variocam actuator & solenoid combo ($750 part) if yours is a 3.4L. Also change the variocam pads and cam to cam chain regardless.
Buy new cam cover bolts as they are micro encapsulated meaning they come with a little sealant to prevent leaks (they are maybe $1 a piece).
Find a shop that has done this before because the application of the sealant is critical to prevent future leaks.
If the leak is not severe and you aren't losing/consuming a lot of oil maybe just live with it until an actuator needs to be replaced.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Spark tubes, maybe a couple hours labor tops, the tubes are like $5 or 6 bux each, times three per side of course.
Cam cover reseal, prob more like 8-12 hours labor (engine & trans has to be dropped at least 8 inches, and best to do the work when it's completely removed)
If you have the cam cover removed, consider replacing the variocam actuator & solenoid combo ($750 part) if yours is a 3.4L. Also change the variocam pads and cam to cam chain regardless.
Buy new cam cover bolts as they are micro encapsulated meaning they come with a little sealant to prevent leaks (they are maybe $1 a piece).
Find a shop that has done this before because the application of the sealant is critical to prevent future leaks.
If the leak is not severe and you aren't losing/consuming a lot of oil maybe just live with it until an actuator needs to be replaced.
Cam cover reseal, prob more like 8-12 hours labor (engine & trans has to be dropped at least 8 inches, and best to do the work when it's completely removed)
If you have the cam cover removed, consider replacing the variocam actuator & solenoid combo ($750 part) if yours is a 3.4L. Also change the variocam pads and cam to cam chain regardless.
Buy new cam cover bolts as they are micro encapsulated meaning they come with a little sealant to prevent leaks (they are maybe $1 a piece).
Find a shop that has done this before because the application of the sealant is critical to prevent future leaks.
If the leak is not severe and you aren't losing/consuming a lot of oil maybe just live with it until an actuator needs to be replaced.
How would I tell if it's the spark plug tubes and is it a DIY?
#11
Nordschleife Master
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#12
Nordschleife Master
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Hmm. So in reading the threads on spark plug tubes it appears that the only way to tell if it's the tubes is to pull and replace them. Either way, looks like an easy and inexpensive way to start. I'll start here and see if it helps.
I checked through my records and see that the spark plugs were changed 10,000 miles ago (11/2008) and the oil was changed 2,000 miles ago (5/11), so looks like this could be a simple and and out job on the plug tubes, without the need for more service.
RL to the rescue again! Thanks guys!
I checked through my records and see that the spark plugs were changed 10,000 miles ago (11/2008) and the oil was changed 2,000 miles ago (5/11), so looks like this could be a simple and and out job on the plug tubes, without the need for more service.
RL to the rescue again! Thanks guys!
#15
Nordschleife Master
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Now, one thing that might help us here. When I stuck my head under the car this evening it was not clear to me that the leak was coming from higher than the bottom edge of the cam shaft cover, so does that help diagnose whether it's the tubes, the can advance mechanism or the cover seal?