ckcooper

I did a search but couldn't clear up my problem. I was driving home and my CEL came on. Car is running fine, idle is a little bumpy (very mild). I opened the hood(?) and the oil cap fell off. I took it to get the code scanned. I got:
P0507 Idle air control system rpm higher than expected
p0171 & p0174 Bank 1&2 too lean.

From what I've read the oil cap can cause a vacuum problem which can cause the P0507 code. My question is, can the P0507 cause the car to run lean? Or can the vacuum problem cause this, in other words? I've had the car since December and it has been running great and I have had no prior issues. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
TH

mikes_996

Probably due to a loose oil cap. Tighten it up, clear it and see if it comes back..

ckcooper

Thanks Mike. Is there any way to clear the code without a scanner? Will disconnecting the battery for a while work?

logray

Yes, that will clear the codes.

Macster

While disconnecting the battery works, it is crude.

Really, a good OBD2 code reader/eraser is not that expensive. Unless you simply love the process of disconnecting/reconnecting the battery you ought to own an OBD2 code reader.

Sincerely,

Macster.

ckcooper

Thanks for the info all. Doesn't everyone love doing things the crude way? I do plan on getting a scanner soon...

C4CRNA

These cars throw codes frequently and it will give you piece of mind to have your own code reader so you can read a code find out if it is a big or small problem and erase the code.
Dealers charge $$ for this simple service. You will have control of the situation if you have your own.

Macster

The oil filler tube cap loose or leaking is at idle just an intake air leak. The error codes arise when the DME reaches the upper limit of its adaptation. IOWs, DME can't make the mixture richer and the codes reflect that.

The advice you received is spot on. Clear the codes, which resets the adaptation values to their defaults then drive the car as you normally would.

The only caution I would offer is -- and this is very unlikely, I'm must being cautious -- if the engine starts to act up, whether the CEL comes on or not, starts to run rough at idle or any other engine speed, make noises, smokes, you should as soon as you can shut off the engine and have the symptoms looked into.

Sincerely,

Macster.

jdjones2010

Boy, is this is an Understatement! at least it is with my car. But, I Finally got one & it's been a lifesaver. Most of the time it's nothing & now I just clear it when one comes on & before it was a PIA not knowing what it was or having to take it to the shop. And if I can use one anybody can! jmo

wwest

The 996-997 series seem to be extremely sensitive, throws codes, to low battery SOC.

Is the ABS pumpmotor, HIGH current draw, all the way in the back....?

Torontoworker

While we're on the topic of CELL's... Because your new to 996's and not everyone reads that very valuable piece of support - called the 996 owners manual if you have a CELL that comes on and is *FLASHING* pull over ASAP and turn the motor OFF. Steady CELL's are advisory - flashing CELL's are WARNING - DO NOT PROCEED. Tow is required or you can restart a few minutes later to double check if it has reset to steady. It's a crap shoot if it has reduced to steady and you keep driving as it may return as a flashing CELL. If it does - that about makes it mandatory for a tow. You'll still have an issue to solve but the steady CELL means you can drive it to your indy or dealer or home. Continuing to drive with a flashing CELL can do all sorts of major damage to your engine (at worst) or cat's (at best).

Topaz330ci

Since we are on the topic... does anyone know where to get a good OBD2 code reader?

I've only had one light come up last spring right after I took my car out of storage. It ended up being nothing, literally.

But I would like to invest in one... If anyone has one for sale, or knows of a very good one that i can pick up, please let me know.

Thanks,

Alin

Macster

Bought mine (Actron) years ago ordered off the 'net I think. Been too long to be sure.

Anyhow, google 'obd2 code readers' and limit yourself to the first half million hits...

A few well-stocked auto parts stores or large department stores that have a good tools department (Sears at least in my area is one such store) carry various flavors of readers. I remember seeing some, just do not recall which ones.

I prefer a mid-level reader that reads codes/pending codes, readiness monitor results and offers the ability to erase codes.

A plus (must have imho) is the unit offers an OBD data view option, so you can look at various OBD sensor and derived values in 'real time'.

A big plus (and again a must have imho) is the ability to record this data. My old Actron could record around 60 seconds worth but some units nowadays can record much more than that.

Anyhow, being able to record data is a nice feature and being able to move the data from the device to a PC and into say a spreadsheet is even nicer.

It has been some time since I looked into possibly replacing/upgrading my Actron to a newer model, but roughly I think $200 or thereabouts ought to get you a nice unit. And you may find what you want for less, I haven't looked/searched.

I paid around $250 for my unit back in '97 or '98 and over the years it has paid for itself easy 20 times over.

Sincerely,

Macster.

fasteddie99

Just ordered a Durametric yesterday.
$296 delivered.

ckcooper

Believe it or not, I actually did read the owners manual, or at least a good portion of it.

I reset the code the old fashioned, crude way, drove it today and no light!! Looks like it was the oil filler cap (whew).

Thanks again for the help and patience with a newb.

TH