How to tell clutch condition?
#1
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How to tell clutch condition?
Is there a way to tell the condition of your clutch on my 2000 C4 Cab with 43,000 miles? Say by the force to push in the clutch pedal or the engage point?
Aren't these heavy clutch pedals anyway? Thanks
Aren't these heavy clutch pedals anyway? Thanks
#2
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The clutch condition is not exclusive to the force needed to engage the clutch. If you suddenly have a stiffer pedal than normal, it is likely the slave cylinder or the clutch assist spring. The latter had to be replaced on my car just recently at 94k... The clutch pedal should actually be quite soft and not heavy on these cars.
#3
I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
#4
I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
#5
I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
#6
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I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The engine should stall out quickly if the clutch bites good.
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#8
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I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
#9
Drifting
I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
The above method is not condoned by Dealers.
If you are going to do something like this, why not simply apply the brakes(with the pedal).
#11
I haven' t done this in many years, but the method I used in the past was to drift the tested car very, very slowly to an immovable object like a wall or tree until the bumper made contact with the object. You then slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is not worn, the engine should stall. Otherwise you'll notice a steady increase in engine rpms.