Hmm, is there a cheap reason for oil in coolant?
#16
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Might be bad oil cooler seals on top of the motor. Since you just bought the car, you have no idea if they did any coolant work (replace a hose, tank, etc) that would lose coolant in the process.
Check the oil like others have said, top off the coolant and drive it. Check it on a regular basis and if nothing seems to be happening, keep going.
Check the oil like others have said, top off the coolant and drive it. Check it on a regular basis and if nothing seems to be happening, keep going.
#17
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"When I came back I opened the coolant cap, to have a look at what came out. It does have some oil in there, but what was strange is that coolant dropped from the front right corner on the engine! How can that be?"
POST A PICTURE.
Right front cornet of the engine faces rear on left side of car.
If that is where the fluid is dripping look at the expansion tank and the water pump
POST A PICTURE.
Right front cornet of the engine faces rear on left side of car.
If that is where the fluid is dripping look at the expansion tank and the water pump
#18
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"When I came back I opened the coolant cap, to have a look at what came out. It does have some oil in there, but what was strange is that coolant dropped from the front right corner on the engine! How can that be?"
POST A PICTURE.
Right front cornet of the engine faces rear on left side of car.
If that is where the fluid is dripping look at the expansion tank and the water pump
POST A PICTURE.
Right front cornet of the engine faces rear on left side of car.
If that is where the fluid is dripping look at the expansion tank and the water pump
Sincerely,
Macster.
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was told by the dealer if you have an intermix problem you will know it. Warning lights and decrease in power. From what your describing it is not an intermix problem. Thats the good news. But I would still deal with your issue of the leak! Problems do not just go away and in these car the issues can be expensive. Better to fix a little problem now than a big problem later.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Vasteras, Sweden/Pompano Beach, FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wow, I will definately have a look at that cooler. Thanks!
Sorry for the confusion, I do mean on the engine, to the front right in the cars forward direction.
Sorry I havent posted pics yet, but e car is jacked up for H$R spring install, muffler DIY sport version and wheel replacement. Cant drive it for another few days!
Thanks,
Johan
Sorry for the confusion, I do mean on the engine, to the front right in the cars forward direction.
Sorry I havent posted pics yet, but e car is jacked up for H$R spring install, muffler DIY sport version and wheel replacement. Cant drive it for another few days!
Thanks,
Johan
#22
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
I just bought my 2000 Carrera Convertible, and it looks like I got screwed.....![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
I just noticed that there is a tiny amount of oil under the coolant cap, and at the same time I needed to add about 2 quarts of coolant. Nothing like when I checked it up before I bought it.
Reason I bought a 2000 was that I thought they updated the engine, to avoid cracked heads and cylinder walls.
So, is there anything cheap that might have failed, or should I just drop the engine? Where do I start to find out what is wrong?
The car runs perfect, no coolant in oil, no smoke whatsoever. It was a total surprise, I'm just lucky I didn't drive it until it overheated.
Any advice would be very appreciated!
Regards,
Johan
I just bought my 2000 Carrera Convertible, and it looks like I got screwed.....
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
I just noticed that there is a tiny amount of oil under the coolant cap, and at the same time I needed to add about 2 quarts of coolant. Nothing like when I checked it up before I bought it.
Reason I bought a 2000 was that I thought they updated the engine, to avoid cracked heads and cylinder walls.
So, is there anything cheap that might have failed, or should I just drop the engine? Where do I start to find out what is wrong?
The car runs perfect, no coolant in oil, no smoke whatsoever. It was a total surprise, I'm just lucky I didn't drive it until it overheated.
Any advice would be very appreciated!
Regards,
Johan
And yes some times it does take a taste test, been thru enough leaky cars might take tastes of many things to figure some out. Some times adding a Dye or the color if it does help. Like a tank of E85 in a non E85 engine and a crap load of carbon on and in everything.
Could just be a fresh oil change before you bought it and it was actually complete, down to cleaning the cap.
Good luck,
John
#23
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks guys,
I will drive it and keep an eye on the coolant level. Yesterday I took it out for a 30 minute spanking, high-reving spirited drive. Wow, it is a fast car! I am sure all the ponies are still in there.
When I came back I opened the coolant cap, to have a look at what came out. It does have some oil in there, but what was strange is that coolant dropped from the front right corner on the engine! How can that be?
And I am still puzzled on how there can be oil in the coolant, but no coolant in oil? And where is the coolant going, when there is no smoke?
From what I have read there might be an intermix in the oil cooler, but to be honest, reading at this forum it seem like 100 % is cracked heads. It feels like the next step is to have it pressure tested.
Thanks,
Johan
I will drive it and keep an eye on the coolant level. Yesterday I took it out for a 30 minute spanking, high-reving spirited drive. Wow, it is a fast car! I am sure all the ponies are still in there.
When I came back I opened the coolant cap, to have a look at what came out. It does have some oil in there, but what was strange is that coolant dropped from the front right corner on the engine! How can that be?
And I am still puzzled on how there can be oil in the coolant, but no coolant in oil? And where is the coolant going, when there is no smoke?
From what I have read there might be an intermix in the oil cooler, but to be honest, reading at this forum it seem like 100 % is cracked heads. It feels like the next step is to have it pressure tested.
Thanks,
Johan
After two 3 day DE sessions I noticed the brown color again. I drained a liter into a bottle and after sitting overnight it was half water & half oil! So my decision was to replace engine with reman which was then only $8,100. I never had any cooling issues but I could smell a bit of coolant coming out of the exhaust sometimes.
So no I do not think there is a cheap fix for this problem. The question about continued driving involves the old engine and core exchange if you buy a new engine. If you damage the core, I understand that may cost you a bit more. Best of luck.
#24
Former Vendor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Being a 2000 I'd make a wager on a cracked head.. In fact I probably even know where that crack is and could spot it from 5' away.
Don't be fooled into diagnostics to determine if this is a head gasket failure; because these engines crack heads well before the head gaskets blow.. we have NEVER seen a head gasket fail, even when the coolant has been super overheated.
also don't be tricked into the fact that this could be the oil/coolant heat exchanger.. Most every car that comes to us with this issue has had that component swapped and the issue still occurred, because that wasn't the problem. It is what normal shops "throw at" the issue **hoping** that it solves the issue. If they knew what we do they'd just pop the cam covers and start looking for cracks.
The primary mode of failure for all 2000 model year 996 and Boxsters is a cracked head- by far.
Don't continue driving or running the car and get that contaminated coolant out of the system before it breaks down the rubber in the coolant hoses and creates more expensive collateral damage. I have seen times where every coolant hose needed to be replaced after an intermix had occurred; the hoses turn into mush and rupture.
You could have a one off or new occurrence, but I'd put 500 bucks on the fact that you have a cracked cylinder head.
Don't be fooled into diagnostics to determine if this is a head gasket failure; because these engines crack heads well before the head gaskets blow.. we have NEVER seen a head gasket fail, even when the coolant has been super overheated.
also don't be tricked into the fact that this could be the oil/coolant heat exchanger.. Most every car that comes to us with this issue has had that component swapped and the issue still occurred, because that wasn't the problem. It is what normal shops "throw at" the issue **hoping** that it solves the issue. If they knew what we do they'd just pop the cam covers and start looking for cracks.
The primary mode of failure for all 2000 model year 996 and Boxsters is a cracked head- by far.
Don't continue driving or running the car and get that contaminated coolant out of the system before it breaks down the rubber in the coolant hoses and creates more expensive collateral damage. I have seen times where every coolant hose needed to be replaced after an intermix had occurred; the hoses turn into mush and rupture.
You could have a one off or new occurrence, but I'd put 500 bucks on the fact that you have a cracked cylinder head.
The following users liked this post:
Wjoseph12001 (06-14-2022)
#25
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I certainly agree with Jake most Intermixes I read about are because of a cracked head near the spark plug tube.
JFP over on renntech says he has seen oil coolers fail as well... but it doesn't sound as much of a problem or source of intermix.
JFP over on renntech says he has seen oil coolers fail as well... but it doesn't sound as much of a problem or source of intermix.
#26
Former Vendor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If it wasn't a 2000 my hypothesis wouldn't be so firm.. Cracked heads are THE 2000 MY failure. This is due to the head castings.
Had this car had the water pump replaced lately??
Had this car had the water pump replaced lately??
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Vasteras, Sweden/Pompano Beach, FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks guys,
Excellent advice, as usual. I have been preparing myself for this the last few days, and actually found a few positives. I wanted to do the infamous IMS/RMS/AOS work anyway, plus that I have a few oil leaks that need to be adressed. All of this is easier with the engine out! Still, I did not want to do this before the car was even registred. It was a looong time since last someone fooled me, but the PO sure got me. There must have been a lot of work cleaning out the reservoir before my test drive....
I will keep my engine, since it runs excellent and also engines is more expensive over here.
Jake, how much is a reman head from you? Or do I send in my for repair once removed?
To be honest, I dont even know if there is one head per cylinder row, or one per cylinder as in the aircooled Porsches....
Jake, I have no idea about the water pump. Should I look for water pump parts stuck in the head?
Thanks,
Johan
Excellent advice, as usual. I have been preparing myself for this the last few days, and actually found a few positives. I wanted to do the infamous IMS/RMS/AOS work anyway, plus that I have a few oil leaks that need to be adressed. All of this is easier with the engine out! Still, I did not want to do this before the car was even registred. It was a looong time since last someone fooled me, but the PO sure got me. There must have been a lot of work cleaning out the reservoir before my test drive....
I will keep my engine, since it runs excellent and also engines is more expensive over here.
Jake, how much is a reman head from you? Or do I send in my for repair once removed?
To be honest, I dont even know if there is one head per cylinder row, or one per cylinder as in the aircooled Porsches....
Jake, I have no idea about the water pump. Should I look for water pump parts stuck in the head?
Thanks,
Johan
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Vasteras, Sweden/Pompano Beach, FL
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi,
With the help of Doug's excellent thread I got the idea to use an inspection camera to look for cracks in no 1 and 6 spark plug holes. Looking at the pictures of cracked heads I thought it should be fairly easy, but it wasn't....
There were a lot of oily residue in the spark plug holes, and together with the limited light and resolution on the cam it was really hard to find a crack. And, with the cam house covers on there is only a small part of the potential crack visible.
I didn't spot any obvious cracks, which actually was kind of a disappointment. My biggest fear is to drop the engine just to find nothing wrong, then put it back in just to find it still intermixing....
Any thoughts? Should I look in all cylinders?
Thanks,
Johan
With the help of Doug's excellent thread I got the idea to use an inspection camera to look for cracks in no 1 and 6 spark plug holes. Looking at the pictures of cracked heads I thought it should be fairly easy, but it wasn't....
There were a lot of oily residue in the spark plug holes, and together with the limited light and resolution on the cam it was really hard to find a crack. And, with the cam house covers on there is only a small part of the potential crack visible.
I didn't spot any obvious cracks, which actually was kind of a disappointment. My biggest fear is to drop the engine just to find nothing wrong, then put it back in just to find it still intermixing....
Any thoughts? Should I look in all cylinders?
Thanks,
Johan