buzztt

took my 2000 carrera out for a ride and it wouldnt go above 2k rpms (approx) i turned off the ignition for a couple of seconds and re-started and it was fine...for approx 30-90 seconds then the same thing would happen again, there were no cel's, no strange sounds or smells or anything, it seems perfectly normal except the 2k limit, its bone stock

any idea what it could be ?

Mother

I did have a throttle body electrical connector (located on throttle body) come loose that kept engine from responding to pedal input you can make sure that the rubber seal washer inside is not interfering to make good connection. I had a Durametric tester to see the problem.

vange_c4s

is it ok now? if not i suggest a code has been set. check it. way guess - maybe something to do with electronic throttle failure?

buzztt

i drove it home and havent driven it since, its going into the shop tonight

vange_c4s

keep us posted

chsu74

Dying fuel pump? clogged fuel filter?

Macster

E-gas is my guess. But take the car in and have it checked out.

Sincerely,

Macster.

redridge

Limp mode?

Shark Attack

had that issue when my AOS bellow went. After it did this with in 50 more miles I had the CEL codes

Dharn55

I had a similar problem with my car yesterday. I have been experiencing some surging when the engine is not warm for many months, and sometimes it would set of the ABS/PSM lights. If I stopped and turned off the car the lights would go out. Once the car warmed up it would go away. So yesterday I was out for a short drive and had the surging, then it was almost as if the throttle had some disconnected, except I have e-gas. It barely revs when it neutral, maybe 2K or so, and when under load even less. Basically had to idle the mile or so home, it would go up to 1.5K to 2K. However, it does seem that there is some signal getting through as it does go off of idle. Also the idle is sometimes rough and at other times smooth. I am thinking the throttle body or the Electronic gas peddle. I haven't put my Durametric on it yet. I will try that tomorrow to see it it shows an error but there are no lights on.

Fortunately my best friend had the exact same car as mine, only difference is his interior is gray. I am going to swap out his throttle body for mine (a 15 minute job). If that fixes the problem I know what to replace. If not then I will try the pedal mech.

Mother - Waht did the Durametric show on your probelm??

Mother

The problem showed I believe "0" volts throttle or "0" for throttle position when trying to apply throttle in "Real Time" with Durametric not much help been awhile for that problem.

Pac996

I think my 1999 is a cable drive linkage to the throttle body since I'm pretty sure I slipped the cable off over a year ago and had a simular experience. You might check to see that the cable is attached correctly. It should be tight on the wheel looking thing. If a 2000 is cable drive maybe check to make sure the conduit the cable travels in hasn't come loose anywhere. It has to be secured to allow the cable inside it to apply opening and closing movements to the throttle bodies butterfly valve. Or maybe the wheel the cable semi wraps around isn't secured tight to the butterflys shaft.

Dharn55

Well I diagnosed the problem with my throttle body. Took the one off my friends car, it is a 10 minute job at most (so a dealer would probably not charge more than 2-3 hours) and put it on mine. Problem was solved. But can you believe it he wanted his back

So now tomorrow I am going to have to decide on whether to order a new one (list $333 so discounted about $225-$240) or try to find a used one. If the used is over $100 I will probably get a new one. Sure was helpful to have one to swap to assure myself that this was the problem.

I did a Google search and found a place that sells rebuilt ones with a two year guarantee, for only about $100+ more than a new one from Porsche. You have to be careful when you are looking for deals on parts.

Dharn55

Well I diagnosed the problem with my throttle body. Took the one off my friends car, it is a 10 minute job at most (so a dealer would probably not charge more than 2-3 hours) and put it on mine. Problem was solved. But can you believe it he wanted his back

So now tomorrow I am going to have to decide on whether to order a new one (list $333 so discounted about $225-$240) or try to find a used one. If the used is over $100 I will probably get a new one. Sure was helpful to have one to swap to assure myself that this was the problem.

I did a Google search and found a place that sells rebuilt ones with a two year guarantee, for only about $100+ more than a new one from Porsche. You have to be careful when you are looking for deals on parts.

am_ver

try porschepartsnationwide.com for online parts - they are the Rector Audi/Porsche dealership. I am local (bay area) to them, so just order online and pick the parts up at the store.