I need to replace a front wheel bearing on my '99C2, and plan to get the Sir Tools B90 bearing tool, but have read conflicting information about using it.

The Sir Tool catalog says the B90-P2 is for MY74 and on 911 and all Boxsters, plus B90-3 and B90-3J are needed.

Pelican Parts, which sells the tool, says the kit only works for the rear (or driven) wheel only, and only works for MY74-89 911 and all Boxsters. (Aren't Boxster front suspensions nearly identical to the 996??)

Another site says the -P2 version will press in the bearing but won't pull it.
Another site says the -3J horseshoe can't be used on ABS cars.

Can someone tell me first-hand whether the B90-P2 + B90-3 + B90-3J will definitely work to remove and install the front (and rear) wheel bearing on a '99 996 Carrera?

Thanks,
Jon

 

You've got a PM from me.

 

Sounds like the B90-P2 with the -3 and -3J parts will do the job.
Thanks folks.

 

VGM911,

Why the PM? We all would like to know the answer.

TIA

 

Itusler- VGM's PM concerned pricing at a local dealer. I received other PMs simply saying that the tool + the adapters will work fine.
I'll let the list know if my experience is any different.

 

Thanks, I look forward to the updates. Have been considering the purchase myself. My car is track only and will need new fronts sooner than later.

 

thanks for the f*&Cking updates. I hate when people do this

 

Not sure if I'm one of the hated people who don't provide f*****ing updates, but in the interest of civility, here's my experience.

Yes, you need the B90-P2 + B90-3 + B90-3J.

I purchased it from Handsontools.com. Good price and it came with carrying case that holds the full assortment of accessories should you need them.

It did not come with any instructions. I got them thru Sir Tools and web-searched for the procedure for my 996. I found some procedures on the web that show you need to remove the entire rear hub ***'y, but once I started, I found that it is not necessary -- you can do this on the car -- you just need to disconnect the obvious stuff, loosen the lower shock clamping bolt, and push the hub/axle down enough to push the stub axle through. This will be clearer once you do it.

Also, the instructions for pressing the new bearing depict what seemed to be an unnecessarily complicated setup. I contacted Sir Tools about it, and they confirmed this. The instructions aren't wrong, just uses more spacers than necessary. I can dig up the details if someone wants them.

Bottom line is - it works great, pays for itself in 1 DIY bearing replacement. If you're careful and mark things, you won't even have to get a re-alignment.

-JS