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Yes ...big help thanks...few more questions. I'm replacing the solenoid in bank 2 (don't want to remove the cams) are the divots and colored links visible w cams installed? How can you tell if bank 1 or 2 is at TDC won't both exhaust cam slots be vertical? Just going with Pelican and Bentley manual, would be nice get my hand on a serv man or at least for checking timing at least. Are they available without buying the 13 or so volumes for $900 on ebay ? Thanks again v
Some of the IWIS cam chains don't have the colored links (mine didn't) - it doesn't matter though, just make sure you've got the proper number of links between the sprokets (7 free, 8 total sprocket to sprocket mark to mark iirc).
Yes ...big help thanks...few more questions. I'm replacing the solenoid in bank 2 (don't want to remove the cams) are the divots and colored links visible w cams installed? How can you tell if bank 1 or 2 is at TDC won't both exhaust cam slots be vertical? Just going with Pelican and Bentley manual, would be nice get my hand on a serv man or at least for checking timing at least. Are they available without buying the 13 or so volumes for $900 on ebay ? Thanks again v
If the dot on the cam is at 12 o'clock your on the right turn of the crank and also if currently timed yes the slots will look inline or horizontal
To replace the solenoid you need to remove the valve cover, for this you need another tool to go on instead of the timing tool, to hold down the ends of the cams as the cams become unsupported when the cover is removed
Here are some drawings and pictures of a home made cam tool for holding down the cams when you are removing the cam covers. Be careful if you make one of these. I made a crude version of this and ended up deforming the expansion plugs which caused them to blow out. Ended up removing the expansion plugs
, threading the cams and using threaded plugs, but that is a whole other story.
P1539 CEL ,I checked the ohms across the terminals didn't get 13.5 got way less,and did a click test but didn't hear anything(not sure I would have anyway). Also doing IMS and RMS. So if the the dot on the cam is at 12 o'clock that would be TDC for that bank. And the dots are visible with the cam cover off and in the car!! Pelican sea you can use the timing tool does a good job at holding the cams in....hope they're right.
Well spent some time under my 99 boxster today. Set to do the IMS and RMS. I tried to attach the P253 Tool just to check the timing and I could not get the bottom groove to engage in the exhaust cam, just wasn't seating in far enough and the bolt on the side of the tool wasn't lining up. Tried nudging the crank round and round, clockwise of course and just couldn't get it to click in. I went as far as taking the set screws out of the tool and pulling the bottom round piece with groove off the tool and it did seem to click in by itself though not solidly....reassembled the tool and still couldn't do it. also not sure how to tell what bank is at TDC. Any thoughts?? Thanks Vin
No...I'm getting the cam locks from LN either as a rental or free loaner depending on what IMS kit I purchase.. I just wanted to try the P253 tool to check my timing before I started the project to get to learn how to use it. Using it later on when I'm removing a cam cover for solenoid replacement(next project).
If it is of any help the first two pictures show a view of the cam advance mechanism with the solenoid. Not real hard to replace and you don't have to remove the cams. Note that there is a difference between the drivers and passengers side advance mechanism and the solenoid sp be sure you get the proper one. The third picture is one of a cam hold down tool I made before I bought a set of tools. It was a simple aluminum bar and a piece of cloth to protect the cam bearing surface. Worked fine but not as elegant as the tools I bought that was hown in a previous post.
If you decide to remove the cams you are also going to need a tool to compress the advance mechanism. Here are some pictures of the tool I made. A simple threaded rod that screws into the base of the mechanism and then some nuts on the other end. On early models they are left hand threads and it ws difficult to find a die for this. If you proceed with this I can find an old thread of mine that has the size, etc. for these.
Thanks...I'm doing it w engine in the car though. Can you also replace the ramps for the variocam w/o removing the cams?? Also, any additional info in the P253 tool that I somehow can't get to pop into the groove would be helpful. I see yours installed on pic 2 My bolt wouldn't line up so I couldn't install it.Thanks V
10-04-2018, 10:58 AM
