Reborn996

Well, I updated the brakes on my 2001 Carrera C2 with new Stebro rotors and Mintex pads (after researching them as recommended)... flushed the brake fluid at my dealer (twice!) and still have stopping issues. These pads just do not seem to bite very well especially when cold. I have bedded them in twice as well with minimal improvement. I am going back to a set of new OEM pads, I heard that the rotor deposits for pads varies and that you should not mix and match pads to rotors. So, since I will need to change out my pads is there any way to make them work with my existing rotors? Thanks,

P.S. If it matters, this is for a street car that might see occasional DE use.

David

Shark Attack

I have the exact same set up and had zero issues that you have. My rotors did arrive with a very heavy coat of crap on them, i assume so they didnt rust is storage. I cleaned it all off with brake cleaner before I installed them on the car. When you try to re-set are you roughing up the rotors with some 20 grit sand paper?

Reborn996

Yeah, I thoroughly cleaned the rotors before putting them on the car. I take it roughing up the rotors is what I need to when putting the new pads on?

Really am confused on these Mintex pads, seems most people are happy with them for street use but on my car they do not stop very well at all. Shark Attack, how did you bed yours in?

geetee

I have the same setup....I believe stebro's and mintex..the one in red box..and they are great...just for street driving I can't tell much of a difference between these and oem

Shark Attack

Seating them in.. Never really gave it much thought. Just drove the car. I dont DE. But I do drive my car.
I can tell you I did a 100 MPH to 0 stop in my buddys driveway the other day and I did have fade at the end of the stop.

wwest

In order to know how well your brakes are working, "will" work, you have to disable ABS.

C4CRNA

How do you disable ABS?

Optical TDI

Bedding requires several near stops from around 80mph and then let them cool without stopping ideally Just a rule if thumb, so check with pad instructions.

ivangene

from Tirerack:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

and if you just gotta have more:
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c...rs/post/Bed-in

himself

I've never heard this before. What exactly does this accomplish? It sounds odd to disable ABS for any reason, especially on the street. It's a safety feature that actually works pretty well.

To the OP: you won't have to do anything to them. Just drive the OEM pads on the street for a day or so and it will eat the transfer layer from the other pads off. Then rebed or drive as normal.

-td

wwest

The more "stopping" brake power you ACTUALLY have, the more ABS will intervene.

Reborn996

Thanks Himself, makes the switch easier than expected as I do not have to remove the rotors.

himself

I must be missing something. Why would you want to turn it off? If ABS is intervening, that means it is stopping you faster than you would otherwise.

-td

wwest

If you want, need, to "judge" your RAW braking capability the only possible way is to prevent ABS from interacting.

Oh, I see...

ABS does NOT shorten your stopping distance, ABS is specifically designed as a compromise, to allow just enough "severe" braking while at the same time allowing a reasonable level of stearing control.

I have always contented that ABS should be disabled until PSM (VSC) indicates that the vehicle is "yawing", not following the desired "line" directionally.

himself

Hmm. If that was true (i.e., must have yaw), ABS would be useless in the rain and panic stops. I was under the impression that ABS was intended to prevent lockup in general - which also allows steering (that is you can't steer with the wheels locked). By the same token, because the wheels do not lock, stopping distances are also reduced.

Then again, I've been wrong many times before.

-td