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Old 06-13-2011, 02:44 AM
  #16  
jasper
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OK - jobs done. Took about an hour all in.

The video tells the story but...

1) there's no need to tape the wheel centring thing, it can't really move much..

2) The video doesn't say that the wheel centre thing stays attached throughout the procedure. I tried to unplug it but (a) the plug won't budge and (b) here's no need to remove it. If you look in the video he leaves it in place too. It gets in the way a bit but not too bad.

3) the trip computer wiring is a bit fiddly, but pretty straightforward. Not covered in the video because i don't think he has one.

Also..there's no way I can see to repair this part. It's riveted together. I also found a wayward plastic tab in the steering column surround which I suppose must have come from inside the new old part. For $200 buying a new one is pretty much the way to go.
Old 06-13-2011, 07:26 PM
  #17  
fpb111
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The "wheel centering thing" is called a clock spring and it has a coiled multi-connector flat wire in it. This coils/uncoils as you turn the wheel lock to lock. It is there to connect of the steering wheel functions, in this case airbag and horn, to the stationary wires in the dash. I would tape it so it can't turn.
Old 06-13-2011, 07:33 PM
  #18  
jasper
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Originally Posted by fpb111
The "wheel centering thing" is called a clock spring and it has a coiled multi-connector flat wire in it. This coils/uncoils as you turn the wheel lock to lock. It is there to connect of the steering wheel functions, in this case airbag and horn, to the stationary wires in the dash.
Yes, of course. In the old days this was typically done with a copper tab on the back of the steering wheel slipping along a copper plate attached to the steering column.

That was back before the government required the equivalent of a hand grenade to be installed in the middle of the steering wheel.

I guess the this connection now needs 100% hard wired integrity.

I didn't give it that much thought last night, but now that you mention it I should have noticed the lack of another obvious means to transfer this current.

thx for that.

I mention it does not need taping because it has a locking mechanism built into it. There was no danger of it uncoiling although I suppose it could have if the locking tab were to have been inadvertantly defeated.
Old 05-18-2014, 06:43 PM
  #19  
Steve Gallagher
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This thread just saved me $400, so this newbie thanks you all.

And GNR996 made me want to join the Army.
Because, I'm pretty sure she's actually in the US Army, and ya know, every woman in the Army looks like that.
Old 04-24-2018, 08:05 PM
  #20  
Splitting Atoms
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A related issue with my 996. My blinker switch works, but does not automatically turn off after I complete the turn. I remember the units from many years ago had a tab that would trip the switch. Is my problem with the switch unit or something else?
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:25 PM
  #21  
essjayarr
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Originally Posted by Splitting Atoms
A related issue with my 996. My blinker switch works, but does not automatically turn off after I complete the turn. I remember the units from many years ago had a tab that would trip the switch. Is my problem with the switch unit or something else?
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My '99 996 just started doing the exact same...locks for left and right turns but won't click back after the turn. Not too big of a deal, kinda like some motorcycles I've had with non canceling turn signals.
I assume it is the same fix as the rest. Replace the stalk unit.
Let's see if some one else chimes in.



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