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Old 06-09-2011, 04:41 PM
  #61  
Torontoworker
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Originally Posted by jumper5836
I thought I read Porsche started using 0w-40 because of complaints about lifter noise.
Not to start another oil war but I was told by my indy that the 0W 40 was used by Porsche to gain an extra 1 mpg and in further reading on my own I found out that the EPA requires manufactures to fill the autos with the oil that they are tested with, list the weight used as the recommended weight, both on the car and in the owners manual, plus sign a sworn statement that their dealers will use the weight of oil recommended. That weight is 0W40 for Porsche and is considered a 'world oil' by Mobil in that the formula is the same for all conditions/countries.

There are several statements online with a reference to EPA and CARB rules as to emissions standards which one would figure means that there must have been a 'gain' for Porsche to use this oil when meeting the EPA smog testing. It makes sense from an economic point if every vehicle Porsche makes get's filled with the same oil - volume pricing!

I didn't sign any EPA agreement so I run 5W 40!!

Cheers.
Old 06-09-2011, 04:50 PM
  #62  
Dharn55
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Ivangene

Love to see that one. Fortunately I have a 3.4 so not that style of lifter.

Toronto Worker -

You are right on about the use of lower weight oils for mpg. Take a look at many other cars, lots of American cars are no running 5/20 and 5/30 for mpg. I always run higher weight oils in all my vehicles. I am more concerned with wear protection than mileage.
Old 08-13-2011, 05:51 PM
  #63  
speed rII
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Ok, new oil pump and new lifters. Took me 11h of non stop work to pull this of.
Ouch, my back is killing me.

Will test tomorrow if the new parts make the noises go away...
I think so... Fingers crossed...

I did not drop the engine for the lifters, so those can be changed while the engine is in the car. I did lower the engine thou, becouse you need to remove the engine bracket to get to oil pump.

Last edited by speed rII; 08-13-2011 at 06:11 PM. Reason: typos
Old 08-13-2011, 06:02 PM
  #64  
speed rII
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Some pics here pics

Nothig fancy, just some pics that I had time to take... With my cell phone, so some of those arent too good... top 5 ones are new.

Last edited by speed rII; 08-13-2011 at 07:08 PM.
Old 08-14-2011, 11:12 AM
  #65  
speed rII
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So, 2 out of 3 symptoms were solved with these parts. No more cold start noises, no more 3k rpm resonanse. Car pulls smoother and harder than before, but...

When I start the car, 30min's after long drive, it still makes loud "ARRR" that lasts about 1 or 2 sec.

I have tryed it with out the aux belt, no difference.
New chaintensioners
New lifters
New oilpump
New variocampads
New startermotor

Timing chains fit well on the sprokets, so I think that there is no strech on those.

Beginning to wonder, could it be the dualmass flw?

At this point, all the oilpressure related parts are changed. So what parts could be affected when heat rises after run?
Old 08-14-2011, 12:37 PM
  #66  
logray
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Great job doing all of those repairs and thanks for the pictures!

Can you tell us more about the ARRR noise? If not here perhaps in a new thread? Unless you think it is lifter related?
Old 08-14-2011, 01:17 PM
  #67  
speed rII
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This one has bug me since day one I bought the car.

First I drive the car hot. Let it sit 30mins and start the car, it makes loud metallic sound. If I turn off the engine and start it again, no more noises. Purs like a kitten. No problems other than this noise.
Makes me mad, I hate all the "not normal" noises...

It's hard to describe, but it sound's like bad lifter or bad chaintensioner. All of the oilpressure related parts are new. Only the scavengepump's are stil original.

When starting the engine hot, it does start more "violently". I think that I must ask some friend to start the car when it's on lift, and listen where the noise comes from.
Old 08-23-2011, 12:18 AM
  #68  
silotwo
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Originally Posted by Flat6 Innovations
1- This remedy requires intervention. Remove the cam covers, remove the cams. The lifters basically fall out.

2- Noisy lifters are lifters that are collapsed. The M96 engine loses roughly 20% of it's net valve lift if a lifter is collapsed. This results in uneven idling, poor chamber filling, reduced power and most notably a reduction in fuel mileage.

I have literally performed an upgraded lifter retrofit and the car piked up 10 MPG on its return trip home over what it averaged while being driven 450 miles to our facility for the work to be carried out.

Noisy lifters won't lead to big booms, but they can lead to broken lifter cradles from the excess side loading of the lifter traveling further before contacting the valve. The collapsed lifters always lead to excess valve lash, which is what creates the noise.
They never stick "open", always "closed" (or collapsed)
Researching my repair orders to prepare for future service and came across the order when my intake lifters on bank 2 were replaced at 44k miles. It says 1 intake lifter stuck on high on cylinder 6 - I remember that when it happened it was VERY noticable and triggered the CEL. So I guess in my case it was an exception to "they never stick open". I was in the shop when the lifters were pulled and I do remember the tech showing me how the lifter was supposed to work and how 1 of mine simply would not close. They only replaced the 6 intake lifters on bank 2, stating that it was in accordance with Porsche warranty repair specs.

One thing is for sure, if it sticks open, you will definitely notice it - I didn't need the CEL to telll me something was wrong, very very wrong.

Approaching 70k - and after reading this now thinking it is also time for lifter replacement??



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