Battery woes, please help!
03-17-2011, 07:04 PM
#1
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Battery woes, please help!
Hi guys,
So my battery's dead. I haven't tested the battery yet, but at ignition it's showing 11 volts when it's normally much higher.
Engine turned over a few times & then tick tick tick. I want to run over to walmart and pick up a new battery. I am aware that some on this board use walmart batteries. What model did you guys use?
Thanks!
So my battery's dead. I haven't tested the battery yet, but at ignition it's showing 11 volts when it's normally much higher.
Engine turned over a few times & then tick tick tick. I want to run over to walmart and pick up a new battery. I am aware that some on this board use walmart batteries. What model did you guys use?
Thanks!
03-17-2011, 07:30 PM
#3
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Was it showing 11 volts when it was running? I would get it running first before you buy a battery. Once it's running disconnect the battery, if the car dies the problem is your alternator not the battery. I it keeps running the battery is bad.
03-17-2011, 08:51 PM
#4
Race Director
Hi guys,
So my battery's dead. I haven't tested the battery yet, but at ignition it's showing 11 volts when it's normally much higher.
Engine turned over a few times & then tick tick tick. I want to run over to walmart and pick up a new battery. I am aware that some on this board use walmart batteries. What model did you guys use?
Thanks!
So my battery's dead. I haven't tested the battery yet, but at ignition it's showing 11 volts when it's normally much higher.
Engine turned over a few times & then tick tick tick. I want to run over to walmart and pick up a new battery. I am aware that some on this board use walmart batteries. What model did you guys use?
Thanks!
In some cases a larger battery larger as in a longer battery is a drop in (my experience when I replaced the battery in my Boxster).
When you remove the old battery check the bottom of the battery box for other hold down holes and see if the hold down clamp bolt threads into the hole. Take an accurate measurement of the distance the battery can 'grow' and still fit.
If it does and if find the proper capacity battery that is longer but still can fit, you can buy the larger/longer battery.
Avoid if at all possible getting a battery that is a loose fit or requires hacking to fit and connect.
Sincerely,
Macster.
03-17-2011, 09:16 PM
#5
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Hi everyone,
Thanks for the replies. I got the walmart battery(Ever Start #48), car starts fine now. This is a smaller one, but was also a drop in thanks to the movable hold-down plate(thanks porsche!).
I am hesitant to test for the alternator with the car running. The battery is running many amps of current, and I'm worried about contact bounce when I go to disconnect it with the engine running.
Is this a safe way to test if the alternator is at fault?
Another thing, when I got back from walmart, battery voltage had dropped below 10 V when it was at above 11 before...
Thanks for the replies. I got the walmart battery(Ever Start #48), car starts fine now. This is a smaller one, but was also a drop in thanks to the movable hold-down plate(thanks porsche!).
I am hesitant to test for the alternator with the car running. The battery is running many amps of current, and I'm worried about contact bounce when I go to disconnect it with the engine running.
Is this a safe way to test if the alternator is at fault?
Another thing, when I got back from walmart, battery voltage had dropped below 10 V when it was at above 11 before...
03-17-2011, 10:38 PM
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Ok, just got back from that. Car runs fine without the battery. After awhile the rpm at idle bumped up a bit after the lights started flickering at idle, but it ran fine for about 5 minutes before I shut it off.
So it was definitely the battery, but I am having a new problem. With the new battery, the voltage level is pegged at just under 12 volts, and after awhile the car gives me a battery warning message. The battery light comes on, then goes away almost immediately. This keeps happening every few minutes. The car starts & drives fine though.
I'm suspecting either a) it's just a lower voltage battery(12 volts). It provides ample starting voltage(~ 14 volts).
or b) I could be getting a voltage leak somewhere.
or c) voltage regulator on the alternator, which now that I think about it, makes the most sense.
Thoughts?
So it was definitely the battery, but I am having a new problem. With the new battery, the voltage level is pegged at just under 12 volts, and after awhile the car gives me a battery warning message. The battery light comes on, then goes away almost immediately. This keeps happening every few minutes. The car starts & drives fine though.
I'm suspecting either a) it's just a lower voltage battery(12 volts). It provides ample starting voltage(~ 14 volts).
or b) I could be getting a voltage leak somewhere.
or c) voltage regulator on the alternator, which now that I think about it, makes the most sense.
Thoughts?
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03-17-2011, 10:49 PM
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Check the connections at the battery make sure they are clean, and check the grounds on the car. The new battery probably isn't fully charged. so you probably need to drive it for a bit(with out the lights and radio on) to get it charged up. If you have a volt meter (hand held) you can check the battery voltage to see what it is.
03-17-2011, 11:18 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
On the left side of the instrument cluster is a voltmeter.
What is the voltage with the key on and car not running? Should be at 12 volts
What is the voltage when you engage the starter? Can momentarily drop to 10.5-11 volts
What is the voltage when the car starts running? Should go to 14 volts and stay there for a few min
If it doesn't go to 13.5-14 volts after starting or if it(voltage) fluxuates a lot up and down,or stays down with car running, it is the alternator OR the voltage regulator that is built into the alternator.
What is the voltage with the key on and car not running? Should be at 12 volts
What is the voltage when you engage the starter? Can momentarily drop to 10.5-11 volts
What is the voltage when the car starts running? Should go to 14 volts and stay there for a few min
If it doesn't go to 13.5-14 volts after starting or if it(voltage) fluxuates a lot up and down,or stays down with car running, it is the alternator OR the voltage regulator that is built into the alternator.
03-17-2011, 11:23 PM
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Voltage is about 12V before starting.
Voltage comes to about 13 when starting
Voltage drops to about 11.8 when driving around.
With the engine turned on, and the battery disconnected, the voltage fluctuates from 10.5-11.5 volts, so right now I am suspecting the voltage regulator on the alternator. I'll try to have my mechanic look at it tomorrow morning.
Voltage comes to about 13 when starting
Voltage drops to about 11.8 when driving around.
With the engine turned on, and the battery disconnected, the voltage fluctuates from 10.5-11.5 volts, so right now I am suspecting the voltage regulator on the alternator. I'll try to have my mechanic look at it tomorrow morning.
03-17-2011, 11:47 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Good luck! Any time I have ever seen someone pull a battery cable off of a running engine the alternator has been fried. That is the reason a battery cutoff switch in track cars has a load. To protect the alternator and or regulator when the switch is opened (shut off). You can also fry many of the electronics in the car.
03-17-2011, 11:49 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm
Don't Disconnect the Battery with the Engine Running
Copyright (C) 2005 by Steve Litt
Steve Litt is the author of Troubleshooting Techniques of the Successful Technologist and
Rapid Learning: Secret Weapon of the Successful Technologist.
Some day a well meaning mechanic or naive jump start expert will attempt to disconnect your battery with the engine running. If you value your car and your money, don't let him!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The man from the road service thinks he's being helpful. After he can't jump start your car, he puts in his own known good battery and starts your car. So far so good -- your battery was definitely either run down or bad, and he's proven it.
Now he decides to "test" your alternator by disconnecting the battery. After all, the car's ignition should be able to run on just the alternator's power alone.
Wrong!
The moment he disconnects either lead from your battery, it's entirely possible he caused thousands of dollars in damage. Here's why...
Your battery does more than just yield electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's even possible for the alternator to put out hundreds of volts, frying everything.
Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.
Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery.
And yet when you tell them not to, they'll roll their eyes. "I'm a professional. I do this every day. It's fine!" They'll sound so authoritative. So commanding. So intimidating. But they're wrong.
The problem, of course, is that disconnecting the battery doesn't always damage something. It does it only sometimes. Less experienced jump start professionals and automotive technicians figure if they got away with it a few times, it must be OK.
Don't let them do it on your car. When you call for roadside service, or take the car in for possible electrical problems, or have your battery and charging system checked at a "battery shop", give them this letter.
Don't Disconnect the Battery with the Engine Running
Copyright (C) 2005 by Steve Litt
Steve Litt is the author of Troubleshooting Techniques of the Successful Technologist and
Rapid Learning: Secret Weapon of the Successful Technologist.
Some day a well meaning mechanic or naive jump start expert will attempt to disconnect your battery with the engine running. If you value your car and your money, don't let him!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The man from the road service thinks he's being helpful. After he can't jump start your car, he puts in his own known good battery and starts your car. So far so good -- your battery was definitely either run down or bad, and he's proven it.
Now he decides to "test" your alternator by disconnecting the battery. After all, the car's ignition should be able to run on just the alternator's power alone.
Wrong!
The moment he disconnects either lead from your battery, it's entirely possible he caused thousands of dollars in damage. Here's why...
Your battery does more than just yield electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.
Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's even possible for the alternator to put out hundreds of volts, frying everything.
Even the initial premise was wrong. If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.
Nobody should EVER run your engine without a battery.
And yet when you tell them not to, they'll roll their eyes. "I'm a professional. I do this every day. It's fine!" They'll sound so authoritative. So commanding. So intimidating. But they're wrong.
The problem, of course, is that disconnecting the battery doesn't always damage something. It does it only sometimes. Less experienced jump start professionals and automotive technicians figure if they got away with it a few times, it must be OK.
Don't let them do it on your car. When you call for roadside service, or take the car in for possible electrical problems, or have your battery and charging system checked at a "battery shop", give them this letter.
03-17-2011, 11:50 PM
#13
Racer
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Good luck! Any time I have ever seen someone pull a battery cable off of a running engine the alternator has been fried. That is the reason a battery cutoff switch in track cars has a load. To protect the alternator and or regulator when the switch is opened (shut off). You can also fry many of the electronics in the car.
03-17-2011, 11:55 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
What will happend if you disconnect the battery terminal from battery while engine is running?
Answer
it will keep running,if it won't it would be good to check your altinator in fact that is how i check mine if i find i have a low battery
Answer
it should keep running if it won't you might want to check your altinator
Answer
It might, but it's very likely to fry the alternator. Alternators depend on battery impedance for current regulation. Disconnecting the battery with the engine running is just begging for a hefty repair bill.
Answer
Yes it will , except some early model VWs as I found out, disconnecting the battery breaks the circut A early VW will stop running , cira 1960...
Answer
The battery provides voltage regulation. Without it, the bus voltage in your vehicle may exceed the working voltage of many electronics in your vehicle. Cars today have many digital electronics that are susceptible to voltage spikes and are often not well equipped to handle them. You could easily destroy the engine computer or your expensive music system for example.
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Will_your_...#ixzz1Gur4YArK
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_will_...#ixzz1GuqMDGHr
Answer
it will keep running,if it won't it would be good to check your altinator in fact that is how i check mine if i find i have a low battery
Answer
it should keep running if it won't you might want to check your altinator
Answer
It might, but it's very likely to fry the alternator. Alternators depend on battery impedance for current regulation. Disconnecting the battery with the engine running is just begging for a hefty repair bill.
Answer
Yes it will , except some early model VWs as I found out, disconnecting the battery breaks the circut A early VW will stop running , cira 1960...
Answer
The battery provides voltage regulation. Without it, the bus voltage in your vehicle may exceed the working voltage of many electronics in your vehicle. Cars today have many digital electronics that are susceptible to voltage spikes and are often not well equipped to handle them. You could easily destroy the engine computer or your expensive music system for example.
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Will_your_...#ixzz1Gur4YArK
Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_will_...#ixzz1GuqMDGHr
03-18-2011, 02:18 PM
#15
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So I gave the car to my indy today, and he confirmed it was the alternator. We're getting it shipped to arrive tomorow, so hopefully all should be well by then.
I wanted to diy this, but I don't think I could have had the alternator here that fast for a 25 buck shipping fee. I think I'll let him take care of this one.
I wanted to diy this, but I don't think I could have had the alternator here that fast for a 25 buck shipping fee. I think I'll let him take care of this one.