PaulJB

Has any one used the Durametrics code reader to exercise the ABS pump while bleeding the brakes? Is the pump left to run during the entire bleeds process or is the technique more detailed?

Loren

You only run the ABS pump while doing the ABS bleed.
Bleed the brakes as usual - then bleed the ABS system with the pump running (start the pump after you open the right rear bleed valve).
For the ABS bleed you only open the right rear bleed valve - when you close the valve stop the pump immediately.
The pump should only be run when the valve is open or you could do damage to the system from over pressure.

Ubermensch

This is only required if you replace hydraulic components in the system or introduce air in another way. Just an FYI to save you some work.

-Shawn

PaulJB

Thanks for the info. I figure the cost of the Durametrics code reader equals the cost of bring the car to the dealer. However, if it is only necessary to exercise the pump when air has entered the system, does all the fluid in the pump flush out with normal bleeding - without running the pump?

Ubermensch

Enough of it gets flushed out that with regular maintenance it's not an issue.

Tbred911

how many hours would a shop charge to bleed and replace brake fluid... - labour only?

redridge

$600 seems to ring a bell.... its a diy in my book, 2 hours tops and $70 for fluid.

Hurdigurdiman

Yeh I read to bleed as normal using the pressure pump until new fluid is coming through the nipples. Then take it on the road. Brake like hell to bring in the ABS part of the system. Do that a few times and then bleed the system entirely again. Thats what I did and they are fine. Done about 5000 on them since I changed the fluid and the car stops on a dime.

laz74

Can the power bleeder be hooked up during this process, or will this cause excessive pressure build up?

utkinpol

with my car i do thos procedure - before working on brakes i get car out, brake hard several times so ABS engages, connect bleexder, pump it until arrowq gets vertical (1.5 bar i guess), thaen open up rear caliper, then do 3 gentle full depresses of the brake pedal - and it feels by 3rd time how much harder it gets, then i close rear caliper, do front caliper on same side while that side jacked up, then move to other side. so long so far it worked fine. mechanic says operating master cylinder when pressure bleeder is pumped high may be not good for cylinder and is not needed but if I do not pump brake pedal brakes never get rock solid.
i tried to cycle ABS with durametric - car beeps and flashed ABS sign on the dash but i never heard ahything engaging so, not idea if it indeed works or not but car does react on it. brake feel did not improve much after that procedure.

laz74

Doesn't air get pulled back into the caliper when you release the brake pedal with bleeder screw still open? Even with the pressure bleeder attached, the circuit is closed off from the reservoir.

Is the best procedure to just have a helper press the brakes and bleed them the "old-fashined" way? Thanks.

Byprodriver

Get the "speed bleeders" with integral 1-way valve & it can't happen.

Hurdigurdiman

I didn't even touch the brake pedal. I bought the pump up pressure and fluid holder bottle so I could change the fluid myself. Granted I used lots of brake fluid but hell thats cheap enough. I didn't change fluid color but made certain that I changed and slung more than enough fluid. Had to keep a wary eye on the pressure bottle and keep topping and pumping it up. My brake pedal is hard as no air entered the system. .

utkinpol

no, no air get in and i assumed you have a tube attached to bleeder with it end in the glass where liquid goes.
point is - you do use pressure bleeder for all corners but in the beginning you need to 'purge' master cylinder from old content.
this gives best result imho.