Hardwiring a V1 to your 996
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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I decided I wanted to hardwire all my cars and since V1 sells their kit for almost $20 I decided to investigate if I could do it on my own. Turns out all you need is a standard phone cord (the kind that goes from the wall the phone). Each cord will do 2 cars. You don't need to buy any longer than a 3' cord since you will need less that 12" per kit.
First thing I did was using a multimeter I determined which of the 4 contacts on a phone cord that V1 provides is the power and which is the ground. The 2 inner of the 4 are what you are working with. The outside 2 are for other uses (I think a remote display and a memory) but you don't need them. If you are looking at the plastic connector on the phone cord with the 4 contacts on the top and the release tab on the bottom and then number them 1-4 going L to right, contact 2 is the ground and 3 is the power.
1. Remove the two infrared cover (look like tinted plastic ovals). They just pop out. Use a jewelry size screwdriver to get under and pry out.
2. Remove the 2 screws holding the overhead assembly to the roof.
3. Pry down the entire covering from the side closest to the rear of the car. It has a couple snaps that hold it up when the screws are removed.
4. Cut the phone cord you bought in half and trim to about 12" or so. (the picture posted (it's a local friend form his install last week) is not mine in case you are wondering why it doesn't look quite like mine)
5. Identify the color of the wires in spot 2 and 3 and trim strip the insulation to expose the wiring.
6. Using a multimeter verify the correct wire in the 4-wire plug that is the accessory power wire (it will read ~12V DC). In mine, the color (and it should be the same in most models since they use the same wire harnesses) is green with a red stripe. If looking down at the 4-wire plug, it is the front left one.
7. Tap into that wire with the 3 wire from the phone cord. Now you have power.
8. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the screw in the motor assembly up above to use as a grounding point. Wrap the 2 wire from the phone cord around the screw and tighten back down. AGAIN, DO NOT LOOSEN TO MUCH SINCE THERE IS A NUT BEHIND IT AND IT IS A B!TCH TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER!!!
9. Zip-tie the phone cord to the wiring harness as a precaution in case your V1 falls off the windshield so it can't rip out the wiring.
Voila! You're done.
**THIS THREAD IS MEANT TO BE A DIY THREAD. IF YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS ABOUT RADAR LOCATION, METHODS EMPLOYED, ETC., PLEASE START A NEW THREAD TO DISCUSS FURTHER**
Other than that......Feel free to post any question if you need help!![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/fc59f3ac.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/e7cbe9eb.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/d0072ea1.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/89980dd3.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/12048ef1.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/5cdbbe4b.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/a952caca.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/99f5a18a.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/70096724.jpg)
First thing I did was using a multimeter I determined which of the 4 contacts on a phone cord that V1 provides is the power and which is the ground. The 2 inner of the 4 are what you are working with. The outside 2 are for other uses (I think a remote display and a memory) but you don't need them. If you are looking at the plastic connector on the phone cord with the 4 contacts on the top and the release tab on the bottom and then number them 1-4 going L to right, contact 2 is the ground and 3 is the power.
1. Remove the two infrared cover (look like tinted plastic ovals). They just pop out. Use a jewelry size screwdriver to get under and pry out.
2. Remove the 2 screws holding the overhead assembly to the roof.
3. Pry down the entire covering from the side closest to the rear of the car. It has a couple snaps that hold it up when the screws are removed.
4. Cut the phone cord you bought in half and trim to about 12" or so. (the picture posted (it's a local friend form his install last week) is not mine in case you are wondering why it doesn't look quite like mine)
5. Identify the color of the wires in spot 2 and 3 and trim strip the insulation to expose the wiring.
6. Using a multimeter verify the correct wire in the 4-wire plug that is the accessory power wire (it will read ~12V DC). In mine, the color (and it should be the same in most models since they use the same wire harnesses) is green with a red stripe. If looking down at the 4-wire plug, it is the front left one.
7. Tap into that wire with the 3 wire from the phone cord. Now you have power.
8. Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the screw in the motor assembly up above to use as a grounding point. Wrap the 2 wire from the phone cord around the screw and tighten back down. AGAIN, DO NOT LOOSEN TO MUCH SINCE THERE IS A NUT BEHIND IT AND IT IS A B!TCH TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER!!!
9. Zip-tie the phone cord to the wiring harness as a precaution in case your V1 falls off the windshield so it can't rip out the wiring.
Voila! You're done.
**THIS THREAD IS MEANT TO BE A DIY THREAD. IF YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS ABOUT RADAR LOCATION, METHODS EMPLOYED, ETC., PLEASE START A NEW THREAD TO DISCUSS FURTHER**
Other than that......Feel free to post any question if you need help!
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/fc59f3ac.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/e7cbe9eb.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/d0072ea1.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/89980dd3.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/12048ef1.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/5cdbbe4b.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/a952caca.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/99f5a18a.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/70096724.jpg)
![](http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/NCDell/Porsche%20Turbo/0e43ac22.jpg)
#3
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Nice, Is that power switched? I ran mine down the A pillar to the fuse box so it would turn on/off with the ignition. My 996 does not have the autodim mirror.
Did the same in my other cars as well.
Did the same in my other cars as well.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
All joking aside, I'm not sure what the 4 wire harness I tapped into controls. IIRC, it is for the sunroof.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Sunroof it is. It stays powered after the key is turned to the off position until the door is opened.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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From Renn Tech.org
In our modern litigious world, manufacturers have learned that they must advise the users of their product of everything that might hurt them by using the product no matter how stupid it is, so when the users do hurt themselves, blame the manufacturer, and demand compensation, the manufacturer can say they warned them. Thus everything these days from cars to coffee cups have warning stickers of some sort on them. So it is with airbags, and every car owner in the US is blessed with stickers on the sunvisor telling them to be careful.
If you are like me, I got the message a while ago, and don't need to be reminded every time I pull down the sunvisor.
So I decided to take the stickers off, and wanted to share my method of how I did it. The method I am describing will work with any sticker that is applied to a plastic or vinyl surface with the heat laminated decal process. This is what is used for the Porsche airbag warning label stickers.
What you will need:
91% Isopropyl Alcohol – Common rubbing alcohol available from your local drug store.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover
Some paper towels
Vinyl Protectant such as Meguiars NXT Cockpit Shine
Sunvisors
Time to remove the 2 stickers from a sunvisor: less than 30 minutes.
Process:
1. While this process can be done with the sunvisors in the car, it is best to remove them and do the removal on a flat surface. To remove a sunvisor, no tools are required. Simply twist and pull the sunvisor off of its pivot arm. It will slide right off.
2. It is best to remove the vanity mirror and light assembly from the visor. This is because the alcohol can run down inside the sunvisor, and if it is left there, it can discolor the plastic. I also put a piece of paper towel inside the assembly to catch excess alcohol.
Resized to 50% (was 800 x 532) - Click image to enlarge
3. Take a piece of paper towel and fold it to the size the sticker that you are removing. Wet the paper towel with the alcohol and place it on top of the sticker and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes. Keep the paper towel wet, but not too wet that the alcohol runs off of the paper towel.
WARNING: Don’t use any solvent stronger than Isopropyl Alcohol. Stronger solvents will discolor the vinyl and plastic that the sunvisor is made of!
4. After 10-15minutes the sticker decal will have softened, and is ready for removal. Using your fingernail, gently loosen the sticker on one end, and start pulling it off. Patience is the key here. Take your time, and gently pull off the sticker in one piece. If it starts to tear, and is still sticking to the sunvisor, back off, put the wet paper towel back on, and let it soak some more. You are doing it correctly when you can pull off the sticker in one piece.
5. After you have the sticker off, there will be a gummy residue left on the visor. Use the 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to get rid of that residue. When you can rub your hand or a rag over the sunvisor and it does not stick to it, you are done with that side.
Because the decal is applied with heat, there is some distortion of the embossed grain on the vinyl side of the sunvisor. This will leave a faint outline of where the sticker was. Polishing the vinyl can minimize this outline.
6. Next do the other side, same process.
7. After you have removed the decals, and have cleaned the surface of residue, polish the visor with the Vinyl Protectant.
8. Put the vanity mirror back in the visor, and slide the sunvisor back onto its pivot rod.
Step back and admire your work
In our modern litigious world, manufacturers have learned that they must advise the users of their product of everything that might hurt them by using the product no matter how stupid it is, so when the users do hurt themselves, blame the manufacturer, and demand compensation, the manufacturer can say they warned them. Thus everything these days from cars to coffee cups have warning stickers of some sort on them. So it is with airbags, and every car owner in the US is blessed with stickers on the sunvisor telling them to be careful.
If you are like me, I got the message a while ago, and don't need to be reminded every time I pull down the sunvisor.
So I decided to take the stickers off, and wanted to share my method of how I did it. The method I am describing will work with any sticker that is applied to a plastic or vinyl surface with the heat laminated decal process. This is what is used for the Porsche airbag warning label stickers.
What you will need:
91% Isopropyl Alcohol – Common rubbing alcohol available from your local drug store.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover
Some paper towels
Vinyl Protectant such as Meguiars NXT Cockpit Shine
Sunvisors
Time to remove the 2 stickers from a sunvisor: less than 30 minutes.
Process:
1. While this process can be done with the sunvisors in the car, it is best to remove them and do the removal on a flat surface. To remove a sunvisor, no tools are required. Simply twist and pull the sunvisor off of its pivot arm. It will slide right off.
2. It is best to remove the vanity mirror and light assembly from the visor. This is because the alcohol can run down inside the sunvisor, and if it is left there, it can discolor the plastic. I also put a piece of paper towel inside the assembly to catch excess alcohol.
Resized to 50% (was 800 x 532) - Click image to enlarge
3. Take a piece of paper towel and fold it to the size the sticker that you are removing. Wet the paper towel with the alcohol and place it on top of the sticker and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes. Keep the paper towel wet, but not too wet that the alcohol runs off of the paper towel.
WARNING: Don’t use any solvent stronger than Isopropyl Alcohol. Stronger solvents will discolor the vinyl and plastic that the sunvisor is made of!
4. After 10-15minutes the sticker decal will have softened, and is ready for removal. Using your fingernail, gently loosen the sticker on one end, and start pulling it off. Patience is the key here. Take your time, and gently pull off the sticker in one piece. If it starts to tear, and is still sticking to the sunvisor, back off, put the wet paper towel back on, and let it soak some more. You are doing it correctly when you can pull off the sticker in one piece.
5. After you have the sticker off, there will be a gummy residue left on the visor. Use the 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover to get rid of that residue. When you can rub your hand or a rag over the sunvisor and it does not stick to it, you are done with that side.
Because the decal is applied with heat, there is some distortion of the embossed grain on the vinyl side of the sunvisor. This will leave a faint outline of where the sticker was. Polishing the vinyl can minimize this outline.
6. Next do the other side, same process.
7. After you have removed the decals, and have cleaned the surface of residue, polish the visor with the Vinyl Protectant.
8. Put the vanity mirror back in the visor, and slide the sunvisor back onto its pivot rod.
Step back and admire your work
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#8
Ironman 140.6
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Clean install Dell. If I might make one suggestion, think about purchasing and adding the concealed display.
The mounting location you selected is great because it gets the V1 up high, but it also shows the flashing indicator lights to anyone following you or next to you.
In both my 996 and 986 I have mounted the concealed display right on top of the steering column (below the instument cluster) and it fits perfectly there. Easy for you to see, hard for anyone else to see.
Just a thought.
The mounting location you selected is great because it gets the V1 up high, but it also shows the flashing indicator lights to anyone following you or next to you.
In both my 996 and 986 I have mounted the concealed display right on top of the steering column (below the instument cluster) and it fits perfectly there. Easy for you to see, hard for anyone else to see.
Just a thought.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#12
Three Wheelin'
#13
Rennlist Member
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Sorry to revive this old thread, but I need to ask....
LVDell, Is that a switched source?
Mine is a convertible, just got a V1, and I will be looking for a switched source in that area.
LVDell, Is that a switched source?
Mine is a convertible, just got a V1, and I will be looking for a switched source in that area.
#14
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Yup. It is switched. The way to verify is first have the car in the on position and test with a multimeter which input is 12V and then test it again with the car in the off position. If you are in the Raleigh area and need some help, let me know.