Both banks lean codes 171 & 174
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Both banks lean codes 171 & 174
After pulling engine & transmission & replacing IMS bearing, AOS & breather hose, vacuum reservoir, plugs,& oil filler tube I have codes of 171 & 174- both banks lean.
I checked all connections & sprayed some starting fluid on all that I could get to, but did not notice any change in rpm's. I kind of avoided spraying much starting fluid around the alternator- didn't want to torch anything.
After 5-6 weeks of not being started the car sounded rough at first start
& sounded like what Philooo described on his bad fuel post, but starting running close to normal after a few drives.
I cleared the codes a few days ago, but just checked and they came back. Should I not run the car with these codes? Any clues on what to look for or do to run this down?
I checked all connections & sprayed some starting fluid on all that I could get to, but did not notice any change in rpm's. I kind of avoided spraying much starting fluid around the alternator- didn't want to torch anything.
After 5-6 weeks of not being started the car sounded rough at first start
& sounded like what Philooo described on his bad fuel post, but starting running close to normal after a few drives.
I cleared the codes a few days ago, but just checked and they came back. Should I not run the car with these codes? Any clues on what to look for or do to run this down?
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check better for a vacuum leak, lean means too much air after MAF, I would guess the plastic vent for AOS (runs under intake) has a crack in it somewhere or is not completely on the ends. Given the work you just did that is the most likely culprit.
Also check to make sure both manifold tubes have the rubber connections all the way on and tight.
Also check to make sure both manifold tubes have the rubber connections all the way on and tight.
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Thanks for the ideas- I will try them all.
Ivangene- the power seems fine high and low rpm's now. At first start up it wondered and stalled a few times- but maybe that is normal when car has not been started for 5-6 weeks and disassembled.
Is it OK to run the car with these codes? Don't worry if it blows up on your advice, I have been driving for a week now.
Also, do most spray starting fluid at the connections and vacuum lines to find the leak? That is what I have done with all my other cars, but they didn't have the engine packed in a little suit case with the alternator sitting in front.
Ivangene- the power seems fine high and low rpm's now. At first start up it wondered and stalled a few times- but maybe that is normal when car has not been started for 5-6 weeks and disassembled.
Is it OK to run the car with these codes? Don't worry if it blows up on your advice, I have been driving for a week now.
Also, do most spray starting fluid at the connections and vacuum lines to find the leak? That is what I have done with all my other cars, but they didn't have the engine packed in a little suit case with the alternator sitting in front.
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#8
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In my limited knowledge about engines: Running rich robs power but its OK. Maybe it will kill CATs prematurely. Running the engine lean will create serious problems if driven long term.
#10
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If it drives fine, it's probably OK. The 996 is set to run -like many other modern cars- (and will do so just fine) even without the MAF plugged in, so I don't think you're going to hurt anything to drive it for the time being. The "too lean" implies that the readings the DME is getting out of the oxygen sensors don't correlate to how much fuel should've been used according to calculations made based on load/airflow reading, etc.
It sounds like a vacuum leak to me as well, and you should look at things that would affect both banks. If it was a larger leak, it would likely impact higher rpm operation to some degree as well. I would concentrate on things that were taken apart recently.
It sounds like a vacuum leak to me as well, and you should look at things that would affect both banks. If it was a larger leak, it would likely impact higher rpm operation to some degree as well. I would concentrate on things that were taken apart recently.
#11
Could be low fuel output when the computer is trying to put as much out as possible to prevent lean. Pump, injectors or fuel bad. I'd stay away from not driving it for extended priods like the 4-6 weeks you just did and put some new gas in there. You might have to labor through driving the tank till near empty to be sure you get all fresh fuel. I'd dump some injector cleaner and fuel stabilizer in before topping off if the parking the car for long periods isn't avoidable.
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Last thing touched...
Sincerely,
Macster.
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I think I found it. I have been spraying starter fluid in different areas today and it reved up when I sprayed the 1st bank intake manifold gasket so i tightened all those bolts.
Now it revs up when I spray the AOS area, I just can't figure out how to get back there yet. I did just replace the AOS & breather tube (long one) and double checked everything because I knew it would be a pain to access once I put the engine back in.
You where right.
Now it revs up when I spray the AOS area, I just can't figure out how to get back there yet. I did just replace the AOS & breather tube (long one) and double checked everything because I knew it would be a pain to access once I put the engine back in.
You where right.