I appreciate your views and insights on which car to buy or even if I should wait for something better. The '03 911 is clean but 100K miles! asking $24K, then '01 TT $32K, I haven't looked at yet and suspect its in fair condition.
'03 911: 3rd owner just purchased in 9/09 had PPI compression test ranging from 200 to 210. Owner stated water pump went about 5 mos ago and car got hot, but drove to dealer to replc water pump. Current temp gauge is normal but should I be concerned?
'01 Turbo: Looks a little rough but it is a Turbo. with 64.4K miles asking $32K. This car is being sold by a indie Porsche shop.
What do you guys think? Also at what selling price? thank you!!

I have attached the ad for the 03 and the '01 TT is in Rennlist classified.

 

dude you are all over the board a high mile C2 or a beat TT

what do you want to do with the car, have you driven either, how much are you keeping in resever for maintenance on the TT, there are a lot of cars between $23 and $32K

 

If the TT is in reasonable condition I would go for it. Faster car, stronger engine, lots of ability to upgrade. Get a PPI done and look it over carefully.

 

I'd say the TT is a no brainer if your willing to put some $$$ into it over a few years. It's a classic that you can keep for the rest of your days and never get tired of modding and driving.

 

Ask yourself what you really want, what you're willing to pay, then look for it. There are lots to choose from and there's no need to be in a hurry. Some people consider 100K miles a lot for a starting point, others would be more concerned about how the car has been treated re: the Turbo.

Getting a thorough PPI is critical and necessary, but certainly no guarantee against having problems. If you can spend a little more than $32K you can get a good Turbo that will put a smile on your face every time you drive it.

Your choice really.

 

Thank you. Tomorrow I see the TT. PPI with leak down is a must. Anything else I should have checked beyond a typical PPI. Any recommendations for an Indy to do the PPI in the San Fernando Valley, CA area (the car is in Van Nuys). Patience is a virtue, maybe I'm being enticed by the low asking price ($32K). I got the Porsche shakes bad....

 

Slow down. There are a lot of cars in this price range. Take your time and find the right car.

 

By the way, you may want to check the difference in insurance... For me, Allstate did not like Turbos, even with a clean record.

FM

 

I guess I need to take a breathe. Indy shop Monaco Motors in Canoga Park, CA said a PPI with leak down is $700 or 200 pt PPI w/o leak down for $160. Daniel said his 200 pt PPI includes diagnostic testing which would uncover problems with the engine so no real need to do a leak down too. Does this make sense? Is the TT in Rennslist (classified) a dog with fleas? Or even worth checking out? Appreciate you unemotional take on this. thank you.

 

Don't do the premature shoot.....like others have said there are ALOT of cars out there for sale. Think about it, if you find one on the East Coast or Midwest you can have a kumba ya ride all the way home.

Good Luck!

 

A $32k Turbo is going to be a dog. I promise there are issues, without even looking at the car. It is $10k under the market for a reason.

 

Buy the Audi TT.

 

We're talkin Twin Turbo Porsche.

 

Engine controller constantly monitors cylinder output by measuring acceleration imparted to crank by each cylinder's power stroke.

If this too low (or high) a misfire error code is logged and the check engine light turned on. What you need to do is give the engine enough time running while you look at the car to give the engine controller time to detect any misfires and turn the check engine light on.

If you look at the car arange to see the car with the engine cold.

Verify the check engine light, all warning lights, come on when key turned ot on and the check engine light and all warning lights go off when key turned to engine start and engine starts. If one ore more warning lights don't come on when key turned to the on position or don't go off when engine starts, find reason to cut the viewing the car short. You don't want this car. Walk away.

Start engine from cold. Do not touch throttle. Just let engine and engine controller/e-gas manage the fuel.

Get out of car and listen as the engine idles and warms up while you walk around the car looking things over. Engine should be quiet, idle smooth though fast but the idle speed should drop and smooth out as engine gains some heat.

Have salesman take you on a test ride of 15 miles or so. Mixed driving.

Have salesman demo car by once engine warmed up accelerating up through the gears, at least 2. Engine rpms should approach redline. You want to hear/feel engine pull strongly and smoothly from just off idle to near redline.

When you get back continue to let engine idle and listen. Walk around car looking under neath for leaks. Use your nose to see if you can detect any smell of anti-freeze.

Then take car on test drive following the same route. Drive the car the same way.

When you return continue to listen to engine.

Note oil pressure at hot idle.

Note oil pressure at say 3K with engine hot.

Note how much boost engine develops.

If you like car, if engine smooth and strong at all rpms have DME overrev counts read and post here for comment.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

HA! Kenny....I think VGM is playing with the words.