Perhaps your joking, but in case you aren't, NO! Springs support the car. Shocks just control oscillation, sometimes with a small amount of spring resistance from compressed gas.

 

I'm an old air cooled guy, with torsion bar suspensions, so the whole multi link thing is a little new to me!

All back together now. I had to just compress the springs (H&Rs that were already on the car when I bought it) down more to be able to reassemble the shocks.

I did end up tearing the lower toe arm ball joint grease boot though. Can anyone recommend a replacement boot that would fit and seal well? I see universal one out there but thought there might be something a bit better and I'm not reat to replace the whole arm yet just to get a new ball joint!

Thanks again!

 

Thanks for the DIY, I'm going with KW HAS though.
ECS sells this socket, easier to use an impact wrench on the top strut nut for cars with PASM. This way you can torque correctly.

 

Thanks for reviving this thread. Timely, in that I'm planning on finally replacing mine.

 

OEM Frt upper strut mounts or Tarrett Camber Plates?. Installing B-8's and H&R Springs on my 1999 C-2, cant decide if I should use OEM strut mounts or pay the extra cost and install Tarrett Camber Plates or something similar. My goal is to get about -1.5 negative camber at the front, not sure I can do that with stock strut mounts. Track the car about 6 or 7 times a year, not a daily driver. Any feedback from similar installations would be appreciated. How about rear strut mounts, never see any discussion about them, I assume stock is OK with this setup.

 

No! You can't run without springs...

 

The poster mentioned this
"the only special tool you will need is a 21mm strut nut tool, which allows you to hold the strut in place while removing the 21mm strut nut on the top of the assembly. I purchased this from German Auto Parts - $42. http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/4970"
Is there an alternative tool for this? Anyone rent one from an auto parts store by chance?

 

just an idea, but isn’t a spark plug socket 21mm? The too is designed to attach an open-tended wrench and then use a Hex key down through the opening for the socket wrench. You would not be able to use a torque wrench to torque it down.

 

I began the process of replacing all my stock springs with the H&R's and also the front upper strut mounts and bearings. I'm now at a stopping point because I can't remove the bolt that attaches the lower part of the strut to the wheel carrier on either front side. It's extremely seized up. I've soaked it several of times with PB blaster also. Haven't attempted the rear struts yet. What i'm wondering is, is it even worth the fight of removing that lower bolt? Wouldn't it be possible to replace the upper strut and spring while it's still attached to the carrier at the bottom? (as it is in the picture) I've already got the spring popped off the bottom strut mounts so there is no need to compress it to remove them.

 

Have you tried heating it up?

 

I started to and then stopped because I read that should only be done as a last result because it can damage the aluminum wheel carrier.

 

I would defintiely leave that bolt there then if your just changing springs and top mounts. Only reason to remove it all is if your changing the strut.

 

I had a seized shock tube in the lower coilover tube holder - couldn't budge it. Put it into very hot water - worked a treat.

 

^This^ is a great idea! A "steamer" may work with a fine tip as well... definitely better than a torch/open flame... It took me a week of really hard work to get one of my strut to wheel carrier bolts out. Take your time so as not to damage the carrier... you'll get it eventually.

 

I agree. I might just give the hot water/steam a try. The mount nut is really seized on there also. They are on day 3 of soaking with PB Blaster on them. I've got a bad feeling they are going to strip.