Starting issues (intermittent)
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am having starting issues with my '02 Cab with tiptronic. I have searched the forum and have no real clear answer.
Occasionally, when you turn the key to the start position nothing happens other than all of the dash lights illuminating like normal. You can cycle the key a time or two and it will then fire up.
I replaced the battery a few weeks ago, so I know it's not the battery. Also after reading about the ignition switch issues that lead me to believe I had one failing as well. I replaced the switch and all was fine for a couple of days, then it did it again! I have checked battery connections and they look good. Like I said, it is an intermittent problem and may not happen again for several days, but it sure make you nervous to leave town without knowing what the cause of the problem is.
Has anyone had this problem and actually found the problem? The only other thing I haven't tried is switching keys to see if the transponder is giving problems.
Thanks,
Tony
Occasionally, when you turn the key to the start position nothing happens other than all of the dash lights illuminating like normal. You can cycle the key a time or two and it will then fire up.
I replaced the battery a few weeks ago, so I know it's not the battery. Also after reading about the ignition switch issues that lead me to believe I had one failing as well. I replaced the switch and all was fine for a couple of days, then it did it again! I have checked battery connections and they look good. Like I said, it is an intermittent problem and may not happen again for several days, but it sure make you nervous to leave town without knowing what the cause of the problem is.
Has anyone had this problem and actually found the problem? The only other thing I haven't tried is switching keys to see if the transponder is giving problems.
Thanks,
Tony
#2
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
bad ignition switch - common problem, easy fix, cheap part
woops - you replaced that
so the park sensor on the trans gear selector... I know there is such an animal but didnt have a TIP so cant say where. It is the thing that says you are in P or N so the starter will engage - thats my bet - if not then the starter might have a dead spot in it...
woops - you replaced that
so the park sensor on the trans gear selector... I know there is such an animal but didnt have a TIP so cant say where. It is the thing that says you are in P or N so the starter will engage - thats my bet - if not then the starter might have a dead spot in it...
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The gear indicator is working fine. As for a dead spot in the starter, it would seem that if you had a dead spot, it would not work again until the armature had turned past the dead spot and there is no way to do that.
Tony
Tony
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ed,
nothing has changed! I have swapped keys and will see if that cures the problem. Other than that, I have no clue! When it does fail to start, the lights in the dash doesn't dim or change at all so there is obviously no real current draw.
Thanks,
Tony
nothing has changed! I have swapped keys and will see if that cures the problem. Other than that, I have no clue! When it does fail to start, the lights in the dash doesn't dim or change at all so there is obviously no real current draw.
Thanks,
Tony
#6
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi, I see this thread has died, but I am having the exact same problem as lote. '03 C4S 6-speed 4th owner; ignition switch was repleaced recently by prior owner. A. Battery fully charged, key in, clutch to floor, parking brake on, gear shift in N;
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
Last edited by DaveCarrera4; 10-25-2010 at 08:22 AM. Reason: more facts
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Assume yours is a stick shift. Have you checked the clutch switch?
Hi, I see this thread has died, but I am having the exact same problem as lote. '03 C4S 6-speed 4th owner; ignition switch was repleaced recently by prior owner. A. Battery fully charged, key in, clutch to floor, parking brake on, gear shift in N;
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
Trending Topics
#11
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi, I see this thread has died, but I am having the exact same problem as lote. '03 C4S 6-speed 4th owner; ignition switch was repleaced recently by prior owner. A. Battery fully charged, key in, clutch to floor, parking brake on, gear shift in N;
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
B. Key to Position 1 all dash lights, battery topped off, oil level timer times out, whirring and other noises of solenoids and electric motors (not sure if this thing has a brake fluid pump like my 964?);
C. Key to position 2, no starter - nothing - silence. This may happen once or a many (so far 6 or 8) times before car will crank and start right up. Car is new to me, and prior owner said to wait for the oil level thing to finish before cranking it. Now for the questions:
1. Can the oil level timer be eliminated by the dealer - thought I read that somewhere? It is a nuisance. (Yes for the blonde in Hollywood, probably a good thing.)
2. Nobody has offered any other solutions besides the ignition switch. It looks from the records, like owner 2 had the "engine bay wiring cleaned and checked", can this be a clue?
3. How robust are the 996 starters? Can it be a solenoid going bad?
4. What about the key - is this really an issue?
5. What other gremlins might I check?
TIA,
DC4
Engine bay cleaning always raises the spectre of water getting into where it should not get into. Water can get into a sensor connector and cause electrical problems. One possibility is a critical sensor -- crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensors -- deliver an implausible signal and the engine controller can refuse to allow the engine to crank.
Starters and starter solenoids are like any other device. The can fail at any time, but the symptom does not point to a starter or solenoid.
The key can be an issue if the RFID pill inside is not activated by an RF signal from the transmitter in the dash. The RFID pill receives an RF transmission which provides it with the energy to respond with its ID. The in-dash receiver accepts this and confirms the ID is valid and if so then permits the engine to crank.
My guess is the problem is with the clutch interlock switch. If the switch is original you should consider replacing it. The switch is not expensive nor hard to replace.
At the same time check to be sure that when the clutch pedal is fully depressed the clutch switch is completely depressed. In some cases even if the switch is ok the mechanical aspects of the clutch pedal linkage and the switch conspire to cause the clutch switch to be not completely closed and in this case the engine will not crank.
One possible way to id this is occuring is next time the symptom appears, turn the key to the off position and release teh clutch pedal completely, then with some force shove the pedal to the floor as far as it can go. Not need to bend/break anything but do make an effort to ensue the pedal is fully depressed.
If the engine starts then the switch is most likely not being depressed completely. Look at the switch and with an assistant see how you can adjust (bend) the clutch switch bracket or finger or whatever to ensure the clutch switch is fully depressed when the pedal is depressed.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I changed to my other keyfob and it seemed to be ok for a while. It still does it, but not nearly as often. Mine is a tip so I have no clutch switch. The problem with an intermittent problem like this is that the dealer can't fix something unless it is doing it at the time they have it. It may do it once in a week or not at all for a month or so!
Tony
Tony
#14
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I changed to my other keyfob and it seemed to be ok for a while. It still does it, but not nearly as often. Mine is a tip so I have no clutch switch. The problem with an intermittent problem like this is that the dealer can't fix something unless it is doing it at the time they have it. It may do it once in a week or not at all for a month or so!
Tony
Tony
I've never owned a Porsche Tip but does not only the Tip gear selector have to be in Park but doesn't one have to depress the brake pedal while starting the car? If not, then nevermind.
But if yes then this means there's some kind of interlock switch and it or its connection becomes suspect as well. If this switch exists my suggestion for the Park sensor switch/connector "trick" above applies.
Another possibility, harder to trouble-shoot, is a critical engine sensor is delivering an implausible signal and the engine controller refuses to allow the engine to crank. The sensor heals itself from the power cycle that occurs when the key is turned off then turned back to the on then start position.
There may be an error code logged if this happens and the tech has the PST2 hooked up to read it then, cause the error code might be very transitory going away upon the next engine start.
Or there may be no error code because the error does not effect emissions. Like I said a harder possibility to trouble-shoot.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#15
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
FOUND THE PROBLEM. There is some great feedback - thanks especially to Macster for the detailed response. The problem was exactly what he described - I really have to push the clutch sort of hard into the floorboard - then it starts every time. Thank goodness nothing more than the switch. Next step will be to adjust or bend or whatever, so the switch is activated "easier". On the oil level before start - again spot on. I can start the car without waiting, or simply cancel with the computer lever.
Thanks,
DC4
Thanks,
DC4