Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Starting issues (intermittent)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-31-2010, 03:40 PM
  #16  
Pac996
Drifting
 
Pac996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Aiea, HI
Posts: 2,919
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

If the switch is like most on pedals it will be a screw in. Try adjusting how far it is screwed in with the lock nut if it is the common variety.
Old 10-31-2010, 05:00 PM
  #17  
Barn996
Race Director
 
Barn996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Kittery, Maine
Posts: 11,801
Received 14 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DaveCarrera4
FOUND THE PROBLEM. There is some great feedback - thanks especially to Macster for the detailed response. The problem was exactly what he described - I really have to push the clutch sort of hard into the floorboard - then it starts every time. Thank goodness nothing more than the switch. Next step will be to adjust or bend or whatever, so the switch is activated "easier". On the oil level before start - again spot on. I can start the car without waiting, or simply cancel with the computer lever.
Thanks,
DC4
Great to hear your starting problem is solved.
Old 11-04-2010, 05:30 PM
  #18  
DaveCarrera4
Three Wheelin'
 
DaveCarrera4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,814
Received 5 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Wasn't a screw adjustment, rather just bent the "blade" out a bit. No problems since!
DC4
Old 03-21-2012, 11:45 AM
  #19  
Targatoo
Pro
 
Targatoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

DaveCarrera4; you still around?

Did this result in a permanent fix? I'm having the same issue. I'll take a look at the sensor to see how to bend it.

Anyone else?
Old 03-22-2012, 09:14 AM
  #20  
Hurdigurdiman
Drifting
 
Hurdigurdiman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ephrata, PA, USA now. Originally from the UK
Posts: 3,075
Likes: 0
Received 20 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

A question to Macster. Are these the switches that are the same exactly, One operated by the brake pedal and the other by the clutch pedal? Doesn't either when depressing take out the cruise control if engaged when driving? If so, could they be interchaged to make a test on the starting problem?
Old 03-22-2012, 12:36 PM
  #21  
logray
Three Wheelin'
 
logray's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 1,851
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

The pedal fully released switches are the same for brake and clutch. #17 in the diagram below (click link).

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...-05/702-00.php

The pedal fully depressed are different for brake and clutch. #16 for the clutch. The pedal pushes the metal tab in, closes the circuit, and allows the engine to start. Some people tie wrap this switch allowing clutchless starting. However DO be careful, the transmission MUST always be in neutral if you do this hack. Even one mistake can cause damage. To eliminate #16 switch you can unplug the two wire connector from it, and jumper the leads (put a wire in between the two contacts). If the car starts every time then that is your problem.
Old 11-02-2012, 01:27 PM
  #22  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have the same problem with my 2002 C4S stick shift. I changed the clutch switch and the ignition lock switch. Still not cranking all the time. In addition I now have a airbag warning light that stays on and a red blinking light from the radio when the car is running. Any other suggestions?
Old 11-15-2012, 10:14 AM
  #23  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by divinabuddy
I have the same problem with my 2002 C4S stick shift. I changed the clutch switch and the ignition lock switch. Still not cranking all the time. In addition I now have a airbag warning light that stays on and a red blinking light from the radio when the car is running. Any other suggestions?
I installed a new starter and battery. Still won't start. Only get a clicking noise from the rear. Airbag light still comes on. What else could there be wrong?
Old 11-15-2012, 10:40 AM
  #24  
DBJoe996
Rennlist Member
 
DBJoe996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,931
Likes: 0
Received 1,184 Likes on 757 Posts
Default

The clicking noise is the starter solenoid kicking in...the problem is you're not getting enough voltage/amps to turn over the starter. Clean all connections including the ground straps, substitute a different battery, try to jump it with the connectors in the engine bay. If that works, you've got a loose 12V connector to the starter somewhere.
Old 11-15-2012, 03:57 PM
  #25  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you. Does this mean the ignition switch must be ok if I can hear the solenoid kicking in? The battery is brand new.
Old 11-15-2012, 04:52 PM
  #26  
DBJoe996
Rennlist Member
 
DBJoe996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,931
Likes: 0
Received 1,184 Likes on 757 Posts
Default

Yes...if the solenoid is clicking the ignition switch is more than likely not at fault. Two circuits go to the starter, think of it this way - you turn the ignition switch, it activates the solenoid, the solenoid acts like a great big switch that throws the main 12V amperage at the starter which then engages and turns over the engine. The little tiny wires from the ignition switch work the solenoid switch on the starter. The great big wires (like battery cable size) are what work the starter.
Old 11-15-2012, 06:35 PM
  #27  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by DBJoe996
Yes...if the solenoid is clicking the ignition switch is more than likely not at fault. Two circuits go to the starter, think of it this way - you turn the ignition switch, it activates the solenoid, the solenoid acts like a great big switch that throws the main 12V amperage at the starter which then engages and turns over the engine. The little tiny wires from the ignition switch work the solenoid switch on the starter. The great big wires (like battery cable size) are what work the starter.
11.90 V at the starter from the battery. Jumping it with my truck did not do it. It turns over when I bridge the two big connectors but it did not when I connected a jumper cable to the terminal coming from the battery (left connector).
Old 11-15-2012, 07:09 PM
  #28  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I did not bridge the two big terminals. The starter turns over when I put power on the smaller terminal.
Old 11-15-2012, 08:03 PM
  #29  
Ahsai
Nordschleife Master
 
Ahsai's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,328
Received 65 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

I checked the '99 circuit diagram and there is a relay called "Start Lock relay" which is between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Energized by the ECU. Wonder if your car '02 has it also and maybe the relay is faulty or connection to the solenoid is bad. Part number is 996.615.110.00

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...lay-996-a.html

Last edited by Ahsai; 11-15-2012 at 08:20 PM.
Old 11-15-2012, 08:42 PM
  #30  
divinabuddy
Track Day
 
divinabuddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you. I will check this next


Quick Reply: Starting issues (intermittent)



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:21 AM.