About to Install Headers...Any thoughts/tips
03-05-2010, 04:24 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
About to Install Headers...Any thoughts/tips
I am going to be installing headers on my C4 tomorrow. Installation appears to be pretty straightforward. I would imagine one thing that might be troublesome is frozen nut and bolts. Any tips on this, aside from maybe liquid wrench or heating up the frozen nut or bolt?? Anybody have other issues with a similar installation??
Any tips are appreciated.
Any tips are appreciated.
03-05-2010, 04:34 PM
#2
Drifting
Yeah, me too. I bought some Chineses headers and they are sitting on top of the fridge in the garage. I went ahead and bought Porsche gaskets and bolts but, I am afraid that one of the existing bolts is going to break in the head when I try to remove them.....I have sprayed with liquid wrench a couple of times........
03-05-2010, 05:02 PM
#3
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
when removing bolts - heat is your enemy, let me explain..
metal bolts get rusty and corroded, aluminum oxidizes - when unscrewing a bolt the rust, odidization and other contaminants come off of the bolt and internal threads. There is a tiny amouont of room for this "junk" but once that "room" fills with crap the area between the threads shrinks. as you continue to dislodge debris in there you will craet friction and heat (even if you cannot feel it, its there) the tiny debris will heat up to the point of welding itself back onto the same type of material which makes the area smaller yet and now you have a bigger bolt in a maller hole.... it will break....
so what to do:
work the thread SLOWLY and if it binds at all (tiny amount) stop, reverse a tiny bit and spray liberally with something like WD-40... what you want to do is flush the junk out from between the threads. You may have to flush it and work it in and out in TINY incriments over and over... if it stops - DO NOT CONTINUE... reverse and flush..
I have removed very badly stuck nuts and bolts this way and you just cannot let it fill with junk, and you cannot let it get hot. If you feel the bolt is hot it is caused from the area you cannot feel, being VERY HOT!! - let it cool, flush and work it back and forth slowly !
good luck!
metal bolts get rusty and corroded, aluminum oxidizes - when unscrewing a bolt the rust, odidization and other contaminants come off of the bolt and internal threads. There is a tiny amouont of room for this "junk" but once that "room" fills with crap the area between the threads shrinks. as you continue to dislodge debris in there you will craet friction and heat (even if you cannot feel it, its there) the tiny debris will heat up to the point of welding itself back onto the same type of material which makes the area smaller yet and now you have a bigger bolt in a maller hole.... it will break....
so what to do:
work the thread SLOWLY and if it binds at all (tiny amount) stop, reverse a tiny bit and spray liberally with something like WD-40... what you want to do is flush the junk out from between the threads. You may have to flush it and work it in and out in TINY incriments over and over... if it stops - DO NOT CONTINUE... reverse and flush..
I have removed very badly stuck nuts and bolts this way and you just cannot let it fill with junk, and you cannot let it get hot. If you feel the bolt is hot it is caused from the area you cannot feel, being VERY HOT!! - let it cool, flush and work it back and forth slowly !
good luck!
03-05-2010, 06:27 PM
#4
I installed mine and didnt have any trouble with nuts and bolts. If you do spray them with PB Blaster and let sit a half hour. I do recommend a set of Fabspeed copper gaskets. Really good seal and fit.
Last edited by okbarnett; 01-14-2011 at 07:34 PM.
beautiful !
03-05-2010, 08:00 PM
#6
Drifting
Dam I hate cars that are that clean on the underside. But then again it is a Florida car. Give it 8 or 10 real northern winters, ice snow and salt and then lets see what it looks like.
03-05-2010, 08:40 PM
#7
Drifting
You asked...
aftermarket headers are pretty and shiny, you should install them for this reason, oh, and you will get points in your bench racing sessions. But beware, they will probably reduce the power output slightly over the OE. There have many threads on this subject, and most all the results have been less than what the installer/owner waqs expecting, way less.
Enjoy!
PS. don't do a before and after dyno run.
aftermarket headers are pretty and shiny, you should install them for this reason, oh, and you will get points in your bench racing sessions. But beware, they will probably reduce the power output slightly over the OE. There have many threads on this subject, and most all the results have been less than what the installer/owner waqs expecting, way less.
Enjoy!
PS. don't do a before and after dyno run.
Trending Topics
03-05-2010, 08:44 PM
#8
Drifting
OKBARNETT....How in the hell did you git intew my gay raj??
NICE
Okay, Ed, let me get this straight. Warm up my impact wrench and clean my junk in between threads (I'll assume you mean Rennlist). Spray it liberally with WD 40? All the time working it in and out of tiny increments(?). Oh, and if I stop, then DO NOT CONTINUE?
Okay(?)
Really, thanks. Good advice.
NICEOkay, Ed, let me get this straight. Warm up my impact wrench and clean my junk in between threads (I'll assume you mean Rennlist). Spray it liberally with WD 40? All the time working it in and out of tiny increments(?). Oh, and if I stop, then DO NOT CONTINUE?
Okay(?)
Really, thanks. Good advice.
03-05-2010, 08:57 PM
#9
An over night penetrant soaking then apply again an hour so so before removal. Tapping the head of bolts with a hammer can some times helpbreak corrosive stuffs cement bond.
03-05-2010, 09:39 PM
#10
Highly recommend replacing all existing bolts with new bolts as part of the upgrade. Replace all gaskets. When doing the install loose fit all bolts before tightening. Will be super helpful if two people do the install (one to hold the header while the other tightens the bolts). Would be much easier if done on a lift vs. jack stands. A swivel socket will be you best friend...especially on the far most bolt toward the back of the engine. Take your time and don't force it... be very careful not to cross thread when tightening.
03-05-2010, 11:10 PM
#12
Drifting
I use anti-seize on virtually everything that screws into aluminum and always on stainless fasteners where there may be a problem with heat, radical temperature changes or moisture. I use it on my lug nuts/bolys on all my cars also. Also anywhere I want to get a true torque reading rather than thread interference or bolt/nut face friction.
03-05-2010, 11:55 PM
#13
I use anti-seize on virtually everything that screws into aluminum and always on stainless fasteners where there may be a problem with heat, radical temperature changes or moisture. I use it on my lug nuts/bolys on all my cars also. Also anywhere I want to get a true torque reading rather than thread interference or bolt/nut face friction.
alrighty then, time to get to work..
03-06-2010, 12:21 AM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions.
Oh, by the way, what should the bolts be retorqued to when tightening? I have a torque wrench. Anybody, anybody, Bueller.
Oh, by the way, what should the bolts be retorqued to when tightening? I have a torque wrench. Anybody, anybody, Bueller.
03-06-2010, 12:23 AM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah, me too. I bought some Chineses headers and they are sitting on top of the fridge in the garage. I went ahead and bought Porsche gaskets and bolts but, I am afraid that one of the existing bolts is going to break in the head when I try to remove them.....I have sprayed with liquid wrench a couple of times........