Next project 160F thermo mod
#1
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Again From LNE I also bought the 160F thermostate mod.
It appears to be a simple mod. They do not just send you a thermostate you get the whole housing.
It APPEARS, I just have to replace the housing on the bottom rear drivers side of the engine. This seems like less that a two hour job.
Does anyone know if their is any snakes in the wood pile that are going to bite me and take this seemingly 2 hour job and make it a 10 hour job?
Thanks
Kyle
Why am I doing the mod? It is the therory of LNE that they head crack issues may be coming from the engine running to hot. The comment that got me hooked was "almost every one I have seen with a cracked head also had visable hot spots on the heat."
But were the hot spots created after the head cracked? Either way. Im going to again trust the judgment of someone who does know more than me about the car at this time. My knowledge is still lacking to make my own choices abotu my mods.
It appears to be a simple mod. They do not just send you a thermostate you get the whole housing.
It APPEARS, I just have to replace the housing on the bottom rear drivers side of the engine. This seems like less that a two hour job.
Does anyone know if their is any snakes in the wood pile that are going to bite me and take this seemingly 2 hour job and make it a 10 hour job?
Thanks
Kyle
Why am I doing the mod? It is the therory of LNE that they head crack issues may be coming from the engine running to hot. The comment that got me hooked was "almost every one I have seen with a cracked head also had visable hot spots on the heat."
But were the hot spots created after the head cracked? Either way. Im going to again trust the judgment of someone who does know more than me about the car at this time. My knowledge is still lacking to make my own choices abotu my mods.
#2
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Again From LNE I also bought the 160F thermostate mod.
It appears to be a simple mod. They do not just send you a thermostate you get the whole housing.
It APPEARS, I just have to replace the housing on the bottom rear drivers side of the engine. This seems like less that a two hour job.
Does anyone know if their is any snakes in the wood pile that are going to bite me and take this seemingly 2 hour job and make it a 10 hour job?
Thanks
Kyle
Why am I doing the mod? It is the therory of LNE that they head crack issues may be coming from the engine running to hot. The comment that got me hooked was "almost every one I have seen with a cracked head also had visable hot spots on the heat."
But were the hot spots created after the head cracked? Either way. Im going to again trust the judgment of someone who does know more than me about the car at this time. My knowledge is still lacking to make my own choices abotu my mods.
It appears to be a simple mod. They do not just send you a thermostate you get the whole housing.
It APPEARS, I just have to replace the housing on the bottom rear drivers side of the engine. This seems like less that a two hour job.
Does anyone know if their is any snakes in the wood pile that are going to bite me and take this seemingly 2 hour job and make it a 10 hour job?
Thanks
Kyle
Why am I doing the mod? It is the therory of LNE that they head crack issues may be coming from the engine running to hot. The comment that got me hooked was "almost every one I have seen with a cracked head also had visable hot spots on the heat."
But were the hot spots created after the head cracked? Either way. Im going to again trust the judgment of someone who does know more than me about the car at this time. My knowledge is still lacking to make my own choices abotu my mods.
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#4
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For me I jumper wired the high fan cycle to the low speed fan relay and when my temp hits the low speed setting my fans kick into high (there was a reason I opted for this) but at some point the cooling system even with no t-stat saturates and the heat displacement of the water cannot remove any more heat (thus fans are installed on our cars)
How does this agree/disagree with your statement
#5
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Kyle, you have to drop the engine and transmission to do that change!
NO, not really! Just kidding!
I know you have just "been there, done that!"
NO, not really! Just kidding!
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#6
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There are consequences to every action. Modern engines are tuned to run at a certain temperature range.
A lower temp thermostat will increase the time it takes for an engine to reach that temperature range; and it may affect emissions and power output as well. If your car spends a great deal of time at the track, then I would entertain a lower temp thermostat.
Personally, I would try simpler stuff first, like a different coolant/water ratio (40/60 coolant/water...?). I'd also try Redline Water Wetter; if you do the research on this product, it will not lower engine temps unless your engine already has a cooling impediment. Water Wetter is a surfactant that removes (for lack of better term) localized hot pockets of steam.
///Michael
A lower temp thermostat will increase the time it takes for an engine to reach that temperature range; and it may affect emissions and power output as well. If your car spends a great deal of time at the track, then I would entertain a lower temp thermostat.
Personally, I would try simpler stuff first, like a different coolant/water ratio (40/60 coolant/water...?). I'd also try Redline Water Wetter; if you do the research on this product, it will not lower engine temps unless your engine already has a cooling impediment. Water Wetter is a surfactant that removes (for lack of better term) localized hot pockets of steam.
///Michael
#7
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The life of a modern day cowboy. I can live with that.
well this sounds like an interesting start point... why do you say that? - IIRC there was a big thread on removing the t-stat completely as a means of lowering the temp and it went round and round....
For me I jumper wired the high fan cycle to the low speed fan relay and when my temp hits the low speed setting my fans kick into high (there was a reason I opted for this) but at some point the cooling system even with no t-stat saturates and the heat displacement of the water cannot remove any more heat (thus fans are installed on our cars)
How does this agree/disagree with your statement
For me I jumper wired the high fan cycle to the low speed fan relay and when my temp hits the low speed setting my fans kick into high (there was a reason I opted for this) but at some point the cooling system even with no t-stat saturates and the heat displacement of the water cannot remove any more heat (thus fans are installed on our cars)
How does this agree/disagree with your statement
There are consequences to every action. Modern engines are tuned to run at a certain temperature range.
A lower temp thermostat will increase the time it takes for an engine to reach that temperature range; and it may affect emissions and power output as well. If your car spends a great deal of time at the track, then I would entertain a lower temp thermostat.
Personally, I would try simpler stuff first, like a different coolant/water ratio (40/60 coolant/water...?). I'd also try Redline Water Wetter; if you do the research on this product, it will not lower engine temps unless your engine already has a cooling impediment. Water Wetter is a surfactant that removes (for lack of better term) localized hot pockets of steam.
///Michael
A lower temp thermostat will increase the time it takes for an engine to reach that temperature range; and it may affect emissions and power output as well. If your car spends a great deal of time at the track, then I would entertain a lower temp thermostat.
Personally, I would try simpler stuff first, like a different coolant/water ratio (40/60 coolant/water...?). I'd also try Redline Water Wetter; if you do the research on this product, it will not lower engine temps unless your engine already has a cooling impediment. Water Wetter is a surfactant that removes (for lack of better term) localized hot pockets of steam.
///Michael
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#8
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Not sure your logic. but we are going to find out.
The life of a modern day cowboy. I can live with that.
Thanks looking forward to this answer
I shed a small tear when I read this
Not a track car. Just trying to get it to 200K with out the self destruct mech kicking in. Choice has already been made to do the mod after my own research as well as teh research of the product manufactuer. I think they are on to something.
The life of a modern day cowboy. I can live with that.
Thanks looking forward to this answer
I shed a small tear when I read this
Not a track car. Just trying to get it to 200K with out the self destruct mech kicking in. Choice has already been made to do the mod after my own research as well as teh research of the product manufactuer. I think they are on to something.
Without more airflow, even running without a thermostat will only marginally reduce temps, but only at speed.
Please notice that there is no indication as to what this lower thermostat will reduce temps to. I have already tested it and it does nothing.
Beware VOODOO.
#9
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Kyle,
There are some very strong opinions on this mod in RL. I assume that you are back on the road? Please document your running temps before and after the mod as a datapoint for the rest of RL.
BTW What is the best oil to run in my 996?
There are some very strong opinions on this mod in RL. I assume that you are back on the road? Please document your running temps before and after the mod as a datapoint for the rest of RL.
BTW What is the best oil to run in my 996?
#10
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Optimum fuel burn from what I read is at 180 F of the engine. The variables of how much heat from compression and exposure to intake temperatures I don't know. With all the fuel additives always coming out I gotta wonder if there is ever a norm for fuel.
#11
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?????
#13
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You'll find that though the low temp unit starts to open at 160F, it is fully open at around 176F. In my vehicles this has kept the coolant temps very close to 180F.
#14
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Without other mods to the stock cooling system, no 996 or 997 will come close to maintaining 180F engine temperatures with any kind of load on the engine during normal driving or at idle, even in freezing climates. You might want to recalibrate your thermometer and check again.
#15
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I'll simplify and say for more bang for your buck and fuel if the engine is running at 180 F you get a better bang/combustion. Engine power is derived from combustion. Combustion as you know in a too cold or too hot engine sucks. 180 as the ideal/optimum fuel combustion temperature?