Ignition key hard to turn when cold?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ignition key hard to turn when cold?
Now that the weather is starting to get cold in Toronto (32 F last night), I'm noticing an issue that started last fall/winter: When it gets cold out and the car's been sitting outside, the ignition gets really hard to turn. The colder it is, the harder it is to turn. Is this a sign of needing a new ignition switch or do I just need to lubricate it?
Anyone else have this issue?
ps. snow tires/wheels go on soon for the season!
Anyone else have this issue?
ps. snow tires/wheels go on soon for the season!
#2
Rennlist Member
Shoot some penetrating oil into it, or WD40 shouldn't hurt it too much. Usually when someone says the key it getting hard to turn it means the little plastic piece broke off in the switch part and it needs to be replaced. From your description it sounds like it maybe the steering wheel lock mechanism binding due to the cold. Does it help to wiggle the steering wheel when you turn the key?
#3
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
dont know if I would squirt stuff in the lock, but IF thats what you do, squirt it on the key (away from the electronics) and insert the key several times... a drop will work, so a huge spray will just cause issues. - Then wipe the key off (think of it as "cleaning the key)
Also the switch itself is cheap (way under $50 IIRC) and can be changed out very easy. Do a search there have been many swapped out......
GL
Also the switch itself is cheap (way under $50 IIRC) and can be changed out very easy. Do a search there have been many swapped out......
GL
#4
hmmmm I would buy the $30 ignition switch just in case.... My ignition went bad on the track, I knew it was going, luckily I had the part with me... it would of been a $500 tow home. 15 min of R&R and I was rockin!
#5
Drifting
I got my replacment switch for less than $20 on Ebay. Also, be careful using WD40. It is not a lubricant. In the short term it frees up rusted and corroded parts, but it actually removee the oil/lubricant. Use a true lock lubricant if you are going to try this.
#6
Drifting
...be careful using WD-40...Dharn55
I was advised by my locksmith not to use the stuff in car locks. A couple of techs have also told me not to use it for anything except cleaning or dispersing water.
#7
Now that the weather is starting to get cold in Toronto (32 F last night), I'm noticing an issue that started last fall/winter: When it gets cold out and the car's been sitting outside, the ignition gets really hard to turn. The colder it is, the harder it is to turn. Is this a sign of needing a new ignition switch or do I just need to lubricate it?
Anyone else have this issue?
ps. snow tires/wheels go on soon for the season!
Anyone else have this issue?
ps. snow tires/wheels go on soon for the season!
I am reviving this thread because I have the same issue. It feels as though whatever lube is in the lock cylinder has "frozen". Also, when I turn the car off, it takes 10 second or so for the mechanicals to "click inside", and for the idiot bell to turn off once I remove the key. This only happens when the car is cold. Were you able to lube the cylinder or did you have to replace the switch or the entire ignition lock mechanism?
Thanks
Stefan
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#8
Rennlist Member
Many say do not shoot anything into the Ign lockset. I had that problem and I used a PTFE & graphite lock lube successfully. I bought it at a locksmith store near me. I think my problem was the tumblers or the steering wheel lock mechanism. Not the $30, $20, $10, I got mine behind the Italian deli for a cannoli plastic switch part.
#9
Three Wheelin'
The switches are flaky, and the problems show up in many different ways. As stated here, new switches can be bought almost anywhere, I got mine from a VW dealer.
I heard but have not verified that if you do go to Porsche they will sell you a whole new assembly, including like the steering wheel lock or some such thing. Very expensive *but* a different design that wont fail.
Us cheap b@stards though would rather spend $30 and 30 minutes every five years instead of $500? once to fix the problem for good.
YMMV
I heard but have not verified that if you do go to Porsche they will sell you a whole new assembly, including like the steering wheel lock or some such thing. Very expensive *but* a different design that wont fail.
Us cheap b@stards though would rather spend $30 and 30 minutes every five years instead of $500? once to fix the problem for good.
YMMV
#11
Burning Brakes
You have to becareful to use a liquid lube in a dry lubed lock and a dry lube in a liquid lubed lock. That will kill a lock. Ie. Kwickset locks use a liquid lube. You put graphite in there and the lock will gum up. Schlage on the other hand uses graphite. You squirt a liquid lube in there you will gum it up. NEVER use WD40 in a lock. The lock will dry out the lock and it will fail in time.
#12
I have already replaced the electrical switch with no result. The question now is: Can I do more harm if I put lube in the lock? If I eventually have to replace the mechanism with a new one, will my lubing the lock now make that process even more expensive?
If lube can be put in, where do I apply it? The key slides in and out without any problems.
Thanks
Stefan
If lube can be put in, where do I apply it? The key slides in and out without any problems.
Thanks
Stefan
#13
Burning Brakes
If you use a liquid lube (LPS1 is great for this. Can be found at most local hardware stores). Put a little on the key. Insert the key. DO NOT TURN THE KEY. Remove the key and wipe it off. Repeat the insert and wiping process a good 4-5 times. This will help remove any dirt. Then you can start turning it.
A little lube goes a long way.
Good luck.
A little lube goes a long way.
Good luck.
#14
Instructor
Is there a way to wire up a push start mechanism? And possibly 2 switches for aux power and secondary power and disable the steering lock completely?
I really hate having to worry if my key is going to work, get stuck or not start because of some switch/tumblar/immobilizer
I really hate having to worry if my key is going to work, get stuck or not start because of some switch/tumblar/immobilizer
#15
If it doesn't, get a new switch.
larry