Torontoworker

And they are easier then I was led to believe by my indy. Two small bolts for the cover plate and two hex screws each for the top of the coil packs and then 'pop' they come out (after undoing the connector plug). Checked the plugs - looked great - the instructor agreed. The tubes looked good so back they went in with some anti seize on the plug threads (less is more I was told) and some dialectrical grease on the inside of the tubes.

It all started with a CEL giving a misfire code on cly 5 and turns out to be a loose fitting (we think, as after swapping coils packs around solved the issue) but was a great learning experiance.

I was also told that the service people are way too quick to change the whole unit, coil packs and all when sometimes it is a crack in the tube or miss fit and or the O rings (2 types) that are at fault and these parts can be ordered individuality.

soverystout

Loren over at Renntech states (rather vigorously) not to use antiseize for installation of plugs.

Given that you changed all the coils, I would have changed the plugs anyway for good measure but, to each his own.

Torontoworker

Instructor is factory trained. I gotta go with what he says.

1. I didn't have a set of plugs with me as this developed from reading a CEL that popped up from the day before so I wasn't prepared for what code turned up.

2. We just swapped coil packs from 5 to 6 / 6 to 5 for a quick way to check if it was a fit issue and or coil issue. The # 5 plug was checked to see what state it was in.

Now that I know how to do it I can bring along a set of plugs later in the course if I want to change them all out. Last night was just discovering what was the issue. Got dirty, but had fun!

blinkwatt

That rumble from a loose coil pack is scary aint it? I had one not fully connected after my spark plug swap.....raised hell flashing CEL,bad rumble.

Torontoworker

Yeah, you've got that right!

The interesting thing was the instructor was five feet away and he said 'you've got a misfire going on there'. I guess thats why he has his job and I don't.

Tippy

Really?!?! What does he recommnend to use for disimilar metals then?

peavynation

What's this 'instructor' thing all about? Are you taking classes, or buying shop time on a lift where you get some included instruction? Inquiring minds want to know.

BTW, I remember Loren saying no about antiseize too. I'd like to know basis for it, and want to know yeah or neah on it for sure.

GMS

Factory is no anti-seize (since about 1995) and always torque spark plugs to specification, there is a torque for new plugs and another for remove/refit of already installed plugs.

Tippy

Porsche or the industry?

1999Porsche911

NEVER use anti-seize on plugs or most threaded componants where torgue settings is critical. The zinc coating on your plugs are all the anti-seize protection you need.

cardsrule

Ummm i am factory trained (72 credits) and you don't use antiseize. i could find it in print if you want. glad you did the coil packs, they are not that bad. keep doing things yourself, you will find most things are not that bad.

Tippy

On our engines, that is accounted for torque. If you dont use anti-seize, you will under torque the fasteners.

Porsche or industry standard?

1999Porsche911

That is not true, It is not true on ANY engine using today's plugs. If you use anti-seize and a torque wrench, you will always over torque using anti-seize on zinc coated plugs. The same is you use in on your wheel bolts and risk snapping the lugs. An oil and anti-seize are not the same.

Tippy

Yeah, I got you on the plugs.

I was speaking on our jet engines we use anti-seize and it is factored into the torque. No anti-seize, wrong torque will be obtained.

Yes, anti-seize is way slicker than oil under load.

cardsrule

tippy--- i would say both Porsche and industry standard. At the indy i worked at they didn't use anti-seize as well.