countrysquire

My turn! I received my 'new' mufflers from Darin Fister on Wednesday and installed them yesterday afternoon on my '99 C2. I had been looking for some 3.6 cans to buy to have Darin mod, but after talking to him, he said that his Stage 2 modification of the 3.4 cans will give me everything that I want. He was right! The car is definitely a bit louder and more aggressive at idle, but there is not a noticeable difference at typical cruising RPMs. However, as soon as you put your foot in it, they come to life and sound magnificent. I really couldn't be happier, plus his workmanship is as good as everyone had said. The total cost, including shipping the cores back to him was about $300.

The installation was very straight forward after reading some of the other threads here and at Renntech.org. It took me about 1.5 hours, and probably 30 minutes of that were spent giving the tips a much needed polishing. An air ratchet made things easier, and the 'hard to reach third nut' was actually very easy with a wobbler and shallow 13mm socket. It also helped that my car is a low mileage Texas car, so there was no corrosion on the fasteners and clamps. Also, for me, I saw no need to pull the rear tires.

One other note that I would like to make. I had read several threads about the procedure to place the car on rear jackstands. There are several ways to skin the cat here, but I didn't have the stones to raise the car by placing the jack on the engine case. Instead, the rear crossmember looked like a better spot, and my new low profile AFF jack reached it easily, but clearance could be an issue with a lowered car.

All in all, I can't imagine a better mod for $300.

Bobby

goliver

Good review. Got to do this as soon as I replace the noisy bearing in my tranny.

ivangene

Awesome, I didn't get what you meant by jackstands on the engine - don't touch the motor for jacking or supporting the weight of the car. Cross member is where I jack too, then just go up high enough to put stands under the stock jacking points in front of the rear wheels.

Be safe, great mod!

countrysquire

I didn't do a very good job explaining what I meant. I placed the jackstands under the rear jack points, but I was referring to raising the rear of the car by the crossmember instead of the engine. I've read some threads advocating lifting the car by placing the hydraulic jack on a boss behind the oil sump. Not looking to debate if this is OK, but I didn't feel comfortable doing it. My point was that a good low profile jack, such as the AFF or more expensive AC, is a good investment and will reach the crossmember.

ivangene

fair enough, I get it -

for anyone thinking of lifting the car with the motor on any point, make sure you know the cost of motor mounts and have a couple on hand - seems Porsche thought the motor worked best from a "hanging" possition, something to do with gravity I guess and the mounts are not trying real hard to hold the motor from falling "up"




NOW - quit beiing such a puss and fight me about it! - this is one of only a couple subjects I know somthing about and I, for one, am going to fight till the death...... SO....


Have at you !




Oh, Had enough ehhh?

peavynation

Ed, I saw a post where they advocated lifting the side of the car up by the rear-most jacking point (in front of the rear tire), putting the front jack point on a jack-stand, putting the car down, doing the same to the other side (now the fronts are on stands), and then jacking the rear up by the aforementioned motor boss so you can put the stands at the back jacking points.

I don't like this one bit. What's the best way to get the the car up off all fours?

chsu74

Ed talks dirty to his...

Patrick E

This is the method I use, but I'm certainly open to new ideas since, as others have stated, I'm not entirely comfortable lifting by the engine. My jack doesn't reach the cross-member.

Any thoughts?