Rust on my brake disks
07-08-2009, 02:16 AM
#16
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07-08-2009, 04:56 AM
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07-08-2009, 04:58 AM
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+1 on the ridge being way too high. Those rotors appear to be toast. Tolerance is 26 mm front, 22 mm rear. Any thinner than that and you should replace them.
The rust is normal. Brake rotors are made of mild steel because it is better suited to the task than stainless. The bits that aren't rubbed clean by the brake pads will rust for sure.
I painted the hats on my new rotors so they won't rust. I'll be posting pics soon in my thread here on the subject.
The rust is normal. Brake rotors are made of mild steel because it is better suited to the task than stainless. The bits that aren't rubbed clean by the brake pads will rust for sure.
I painted the hats on my new rotors so they won't rust. I'll be posting pics soon in my thread here on the subject.
07-08-2009, 05:03 AM
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07-08-2009, 05:05 AM
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+1 on the ridge being way too high. Those rotors appear to be toast. Tolerance is 26 mm front, 22 mm rear. Any thinner than that and you should replace them.
The rust is normal. Brake rotors are made of mild steel because it is better suited to the task than stainless. The bits that aren't rubbed clean by the brake pads will rust for sure.
I painted the hats on my new rotors so they won't rust. I'll be posting pics soon in my thread here on the subject.
The rust is normal. Brake rotors are made of mild steel because it is better suited to the task than stainless. The bits that aren't rubbed clean by the brake pads will rust for sure.
I painted the hats on my new rotors so they won't rust. I'll be posting pics soon in my thread here on the subject.
Last edited by davidoson; 07-08-2009 at 05:38 AM.
07-08-2009, 09:57 AM
#22
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pads and disc? or just disc?
if you have some basic tools (or can buy some) this is a very good and simple do it yourself job....saves you some money too (if you are in to that)
Nice car, welcome to the board!!!
Now lets talk about an "amerectomy" for those headlights
if you have some basic tools (or can buy some) this is a very good and simple do it yourself job....saves you some money too (if you are in to that)
Nice car, welcome to the board!!!
Now lets talk about an "amerectomy" for those headlights
07-08-2009, 10:27 AM
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Just the disks. The pads cost an additional 4500 SEK (570$ USD) for all 4 wheels. Whats an amerectomy?
Also I read a thread about LED for tail-lamps, that cant be very hard to do by urself, all you need is a cascet that fits (can prolly do one with plastic padding, sand paper and some net and after that its just bying LED's, do some solder and you should be in business. Someone should try it.
07-08-2009, 10:57 AM
#25
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Those prices are about in line with what someone would pay a shop in my area to do a set of brakes pads and rotors. I'm in Western Canada.
By the way - don't forget to flush your fluid.
I'm a little concerned about your shop quoting you on a rotor change without also quoting pads and a flush. Not a lot of competent shops around that would replace the rotors only are there?
Personally, I've found a set of rotors locally which were used for only 5K kilometres before they were replaced with Turbo parts. Those cost me $350 CDN (about $320 USD). Next I'll buy a set of pads from the USA - estimate $200, and then a litre or so of Motul brake fluid.
A few hours in the shop and $600 later I'm good for another campaign. I like doing the work myself not just because it saves me money, but also because I know *exactly* what was done and how it was done.
By the way - don't forget to flush your fluid.
I'm a little concerned about your shop quoting you on a rotor change without also quoting pads and a flush. Not a lot of competent shops around that would replace the rotors only are there?
Personally, I've found a set of rotors locally which were used for only 5K kilometres before they were replaced with Turbo parts. Those cost me $350 CDN (about $320 USD). Next I'll buy a set of pads from the USA - estimate $200, and then a litre or so of Motul brake fluid.
A few hours in the shop and $600 later I'm good for another campaign. I like doing the work myself not just because it saves me money, but also because I know *exactly* what was done and how it was done.
07-08-2009, 10:57 AM
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07-08-2009, 11:16 AM
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Ah, I understand. Yea but I think the problem is that you are required by law to have amber blinker lights on the front here in Sweden.
I'm not 100% but I know when you import cars from e.g. the US you often have to do modifications to the blinker lights to make the "street legal".
I'm not 100% but I know when you import cars from e.g. the US you often have to do modifications to the blinker lights to make the "street legal".
07-08-2009, 11:19 AM
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Those prices are about in line with what someone would pay a shop in my area to do a set of brakes pads and rotors. I'm in Western Canada.
By the way - don't forget to flush your fluid.
I'm a little concerned about your shop quoting you on a rotor change without also quoting pads and a flush. Not a lot of competent shops around that would replace the rotors only are there?
Personally, I've found a set of rotors locally which were used for only 5K kilometres before they were replaced with Turbo parts. Those cost me $350 CDN (about $320 USD). Next I'll buy a set of pads from the USA - estimate $200, and then a litre or so of Motul brake fluid.
A few hours in the shop and $600 later I'm good for another campaign. I like doing the work myself not just because it saves me money, but also because I know *exactly* what was done and how it was done.
By the way - don't forget to flush your fluid.
I'm a little concerned about your shop quoting you on a rotor change without also quoting pads and a flush. Not a lot of competent shops around that would replace the rotors only are there?
Personally, I've found a set of rotors locally which were used for only 5K kilometres before they were replaced with Turbo parts. Those cost me $350 CDN (about $320 USD). Next I'll buy a set of pads from the USA - estimate $200, and then a litre or so of Motul brake fluid.
A few hours in the shop and $600 later I'm good for another campaign. I like doing the work myself not just because it saves me money, but also because I know *exactly* what was done and how it was done.
