Home Garage Engine Removal Photos
#16
Ano2boxster - Raby provides the parts for the IMS bearing replacement, I think it is $500-$600. Here is the link for his site: http://www.flat6innovations.com/recent-projects I found the section of the site with the info on the IMS upgrade the other day, but can't find it today, the site is kind of confusing and a couple of links aren't working right now. He also just posted a section of rebuilding/assembling a Boxster engine that you might find interesting.
Also, here is the link to the Pelican tech article on tearing down an engine, it shows the upgrade to the IMS bearing using the Raby parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...erTech-162.htm
They also talk about an upgrade they are working on that will be "less Expensive". The thing about the IMS is if t lets go, the engine is usually destroyed, so it might be worth the money.
The RMS can't really be "resealed" just has to be replaced, and the latest seal is supposed to be the best fix yet. However, if yours is not leaking some say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
For the AC Compressor I finally found out a fairly easy way to get at the rear bolt. If you remove the heat sensor that sits in a rubber grommet between intakes 4 & 5, then you have a fairly straight shot at the bolt using an extension. This might help when you are putting the engine back in as you can put on all the intakes, etc. with the engine out and get the bolt on easier.
A quick question, did you AC compressor have a fuel cooler attached to the back? Mine did and it did not show up in any manual. Someone thought they were only on Turbos, but low and behold my C4 has one.
Also, here is the link to the Pelican tech article on tearing down an engine, it shows the upgrade to the IMS bearing using the Raby parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...erTech-162.htm
They also talk about an upgrade they are working on that will be "less Expensive". The thing about the IMS is if t lets go, the engine is usually destroyed, so it might be worth the money.
The RMS can't really be "resealed" just has to be replaced, and the latest seal is supposed to be the best fix yet. However, if yours is not leaking some say "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
For the AC Compressor I finally found out a fairly easy way to get at the rear bolt. If you remove the heat sensor that sits in a rubber grommet between intakes 4 & 5, then you have a fairly straight shot at the bolt using an extension. This might help when you are putting the engine back in as you can put on all the intakes, etc. with the engine out and get the bolt on easier.
A quick question, did you AC compressor have a fuel cooler attached to the back? Mine did and it did not show up in any manual. Someone thought they were only on Turbos, but low and behold my C4 has one.
#17
#23
I am pressure washing that thing before I touch it again, that was one of my reasons for taking it out. Of course I will cover all the openings. I have pics of all the leaks so I can find them after washing.
Geeze, I only have that cat to help me, wife comes out to see if I have been crushed yet. Hmmm...not sure of the motive there?
Geeze, I only have that cat to help me, wife comes out to see if I have been crushed yet. Hmmm...not sure of the motive there?
#24
#27
I picked it on craig's list barely used $50. There were a lot of them, this one just looked new and was the closest to my house. They are called motorcycle or ATV jacks or lifts. It did work out well, the oil pan fits on the platform which has rubber pads. It is very stable.
This one is made by Goodyear Racing? Some how I don't believe that...
I am glad I got one instead of messing aroung mounting a probably unstabile platform on a regular jack. If you look at the box (2x4s with 3/4 plywood) with wheels on it supporting the transmission, that was used for the first part of the lowering then removed while the engine was supported on other blocks under the headers. This was required because the jack did not have enough travel to get under the engine with the car jacked up high enough to roll it out from under the car on the ATV jack.
This one is made by Goodyear Racing? Some how I don't believe that...
I am glad I got one instead of messing aroung mounting a probably unstabile platform on a regular jack. If you look at the box (2x4s with 3/4 plywood) with wheels on it supporting the transmission, that was used for the first part of the lowering then removed while the engine was supported on other blocks under the headers. This was required because the jack did not have enough travel to get under the engine with the car jacked up high enough to roll it out from under the car on the ATV jack.
#28
#30
All the '02 3.6 and newer engnes have AC cooling lines for the fuel. IIRC from Streathers 996 book, when they went to no fuel filter, (a system with a filter is a lower pressure recirculating fuel system, so the fuel is dumped back into the tank, and never sits in one place long enough to heat up) they went to a static higher pressure, fuel line system, and have to cool the fuel on days hot enough to have when the AC required.