Need help polishing
#1
Need help polishing
I couldn't stand the little scratches in my hood any longer, so...
First I used Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. It seemed to do a great job, the original scratches were completely lost in the swirls.
Then I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I've applied two coats and can't seem to buff out the swirls from the rubbing compound.
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any help.
First I used Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. It seemed to do a great job, the original scratches were completely lost in the swirls.
Then I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I've applied two coats and can't seem to buff out the swirls from the rubbing compound.
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#3
I couldn't stand the little scratches in my hood any longer, so...
First I used Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. It seemed to do a great job, the original scratches were completely lost in the swirls.
Then I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I've applied two coats and can't seem to buff out the swirls from the rubbing compound.
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any help.
First I used Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound. It seemed to do a great job, the original scratches were completely lost in the swirls.
Then I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. I've applied two coats and can't seem to buff out the swirls from the rubbing compound.
Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any help.
#4
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 34
From: Winston-Salem, NC
TTJunkie,
If you were making a book shelf out of oak, if you did the initial sanding using 100 grit paper and then jumped to a 200 grit sand paper, would you expect the wood surface to be very smooth? You would need to follow that up with 400 grip paper and then maybe 800 grit paper. Only then would the surface be smooth enough to finish it with a protective coat or sealer of your choice.
The same "step down" process needs to be done when polishing auto paint. The key is that initially, you try to use the LEAST abrasive polish to get the scratches out. If the scratches are bad, you may need a relatively abrasive abrasive polish to get them out.
However, the more abrasive (larger grit particles) polish that use, the more steps following that initial polish will be required to get a smooth, swirl free surface. Each successive polish will leave scratches in the paint, but those scratches will be smaller than the scratches that polish removed. You keep working your way down (step-by-step) through less abrasive polishes and eventually to a nonabrasive polish/cleaner. Only then will the paint be ready for the protective coats.
Here is a link to a post where I documented my step-by-step process to remove the swirl marks shortly after I got my car. Paint Polishing & Protecting Process
I hope this helps.
If you were making a book shelf out of oak, if you did the initial sanding using 100 grit paper and then jumped to a 200 grit sand paper, would you expect the wood surface to be very smooth? You would need to follow that up with 400 grip paper and then maybe 800 grit paper. Only then would the surface be smooth enough to finish it with a protective coat or sealer of your choice.
The same "step down" process needs to be done when polishing auto paint. The key is that initially, you try to use the LEAST abrasive polish to get the scratches out. If the scratches are bad, you may need a relatively abrasive abrasive polish to get them out.
However, the more abrasive (larger grit particles) polish that use, the more steps following that initial polish will be required to get a smooth, swirl free surface. Each successive polish will leave scratches in the paint, but those scratches will be smaller than the scratches that polish removed. You keep working your way down (step-by-step) through less abrasive polishes and eventually to a nonabrasive polish/cleaner. Only then will the paint be ready for the protective coats.
Here is a link to a post where I documented my step-by-step process to remove the swirl marks shortly after I got my car. Paint Polishing & Protecting Process
I hope this helps.
Last edited by gota911; 04-08-2009 at 02:33 AM.
#6
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 34
From: Winston-Salem, NC
NO, you will want to use a LESS abrasive polish as your next step. A more abrasive polish will only leave more of the larger scratches in the clear coat and could wear through the clear coat. REMEMBER that Porsche paint is soft, so you want to take the LEAST aggressive route possible to eliminate the swirl marks.
Some of the new polishes like 3M finesse-It actually have properties that allow the abrasive particles to diminish as you go through the polishing procedure, which leaves fewer and smaller scratches to be removed in the next step.
I am assuming you are using a random orbit polisher. If you are not, invest $100 or so and get one. It will make the job go quicker and you will get a more consistent result than hand polishing.
Some of the new polishes like 3M finesse-It actually have properties that allow the abrasive particles to diminish as you go through the polishing procedure, which leaves fewer and smaller scratches to be removed in the next step.
I am assuming you are using a random orbit polisher. If you are not, invest $100 or so and get one. It will make the job go quicker and you will get a more consistent result than hand polishing.
Last edited by gota911; 04-08-2009 at 10:48 AM.
#7
Along with Tim's write up, spend a little time reading here at the Autopia site: http://www.autopia.org/publish/categ...-and-Car-Care/
I learned a lot from reading their material (and ultimately bought my supplies from them). I've gotten excellent results!
I learned a lot from reading their material (and ultimately bought my supplies from them). I've gotten excellent results!
Trending Topics
#8
Tim's posts are spot on.
Another thing to consider is what media are you using to polish the car if you're not using a buffer and foam pads?
Terry cloth towels are abrasive enough to where if you continue to use them for all of your polishing you'll do nothing but continue to scratch the surface just from the towel. Microfiber or foam are your friends for lighter polishing.
Another thing to consider is what media are you using to polish the car if you're not using a buffer and foam pads?
Terry cloth towels are abrasive enough to where if you continue to use them for all of your polishing you'll do nothing but continue to scratch the surface just from the towel. Microfiber or foam are your friends for lighter polishing.
#11
At this point you might want to check with the experts in the Concours section. I have had great advice from them. Either a random orbital or the new Flex with the correct polish might be in order. I did my first RO polish last year, and was really happy with the results. Good luck!
#15
Porter cable, and a set of pads from someone like Autopia
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ultim...hing-pads.html
Then work through polish grades and pads as Tim mentioned - until you get to the final mirror-like finish.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ultim...hing-pads.html
Then work through polish grades and pads as Tim mentioned - until you get to the final mirror-like finish.