What is this? RMS and ?
#1
What is this? RMS and ?
I am starting to get the parts ready for an RMS change. I was looking at suncoast and saw this picture. What is the metal object next to the rms? Is it the "special tool". If not, what is it and where can I get a cheap RMS installation tool?
#3
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
About a year ago (maybe a little longer) someone posted a DIY for the RMS replacement, with pics. You might want to search on RMS in the title only to see if you can find that thread. He also listed the RMS installation tool.
#4
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have seen it dont somewhere using a PVC pipe of the right size... I imagine it was cut very straight and he tapped it in very slowly to the correct depth
?
Mine leaks, so when i do the clutch I will know then ehh
?
Mine leaks, so when i do the clutch I will know then ehh
#6
Race Director
End plate of IMS. Should have 2 bolts with threads treated with sealant...
To press in seal all you need is piece of plastic "heavy" wall tubing -- hardware store plumbing section -- take seal with you for "sizing".
This section of tubing need only be 6" or so long. It wants to have an inner diameter that clears the cranksaft journal and an outer diameter that is a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the RMS and the bore it fits into.
Get seal positioned and gently tap tube end to drive seal into bore. With tube you have good indicator of how square seal is going in by fact tube should remain perpendicular to rear face of engine block at all times while you are driving seal into place.
The recommendation to not drive seal in to where it ends up where old seal was cause old seal may have worn slight groove (or not so slight groove) until crank journal and if new seal ends up at same spot it might leak.
Before you install seal check for groove and if there isn't one just drive seal in until it was at same depth as old one, assuming old one installed to correct depth of course.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#7
Race Director
Damn! Make that should have 3 bolts!
cause bolts thread into case where oil is and oil can seep past threads of these bolts and mimic an RMS. Years ago when I had my car's RMS fixed a new end plate with a 3-ribbed seal vs. the old style single o-ring seal and 3 new bolts fitted too cause word was more than a few RMS leaks were actually this IMS end plate o-ring or unsealed bolts leaking.
To press in seal all you need is piece of plastic "heavy" wall tubing -- hardware store plumbing section -- take seal with you for "sizing".
This section of tubing need only be 6" or so long. It wants to have an inner diameter that clears the cranksaft journal and an outer diameter that is a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the RMS and the bore it fits into.
Get seal positioned and gently tap tube end to drive seal into bore. With tube you have good indicator of how square seal is going in by fact tube should remain perpendicular to rear face of engine block at all times while you are driving seal into place.
The recommendation to not drive seal in to where it ends up where old seal was cause old seal may have worn slight groove (or not so slight groove) until crank journal and if new seal ends up at same spot it might leak.
Before you install seal check for groove and if there isn't one just drive seal in until it was at same depth as old one, assuming old one installed to correct depth of course.
Sincerely,
Macster.
To press in seal all you need is piece of plastic "heavy" wall tubing -- hardware store plumbing section -- take seal with you for "sizing".
This section of tubing need only be 6" or so long. It wants to have an inner diameter that clears the cranksaft journal and an outer diameter that is a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the RMS and the bore it fits into.
Get seal positioned and gently tap tube end to drive seal into bore. With tube you have good indicator of how square seal is going in by fact tube should remain perpendicular to rear face of engine block at all times while you are driving seal into place.
The recommendation to not drive seal in to where it ends up where old seal was cause old seal may have worn slight groove (or not so slight groove) until crank journal and if new seal ends up at same spot it might leak.
Before you install seal check for groove and if there isn't one just drive seal in until it was at same depth as old one, assuming old one installed to correct depth of course.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Trending Topics
#8
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Any idea how to change the IMS shaft o'ring while you are in there??? (that adjustment screw in the middle scares me a bit)
#9
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
OK for some reason I searched for RMS and got "no results"
someone is covering something up?
LOL
anyhow, I had drinks with the "boys" down at my indy shop on friday night and as hard as i tried NOT to talk shop, in the end I did ask a couple questions. One concerned the IMS seal replacement. When asked how hard a job was it I was told not hard, BUT you have to have the engine on TDC to do the job
?
well - can't find anything on that...
Can anyone confirm this, find a DIY article or know what page of the service manual that shows this. ( I have been all over the manuals on cannell)
I am sure I have a leak in the clutch area (rms or ims seal) and am slowly building up my bank of knowledge, parts and courage to tackle the clutch, RMS, IMS seal and engine bolts all at once (maybe in the summer... I am in NO hurry!)
someone is covering something up?
LOL
anyhow, I had drinks with the "boys" down at my indy shop on friday night and as hard as i tried NOT to talk shop, in the end I did ask a couple questions. One concerned the IMS seal replacement. When asked how hard a job was it I was told not hard, BUT you have to have the engine on TDC to do the job
?
well - can't find anything on that...
Can anyone confirm this, find a DIY article or know what page of the service manual that shows this. ( I have been all over the manuals on cannell)
I am sure I have a leak in the clutch area (rms or ims seal) and am slowly building up my bank of knowledge, parts and courage to tackle the clutch, RMS, IMS seal and engine bolts all at once (maybe in the summer... I am in NO hurry!)
Last edited by ivangene; 02-15-2009 at 12:06 PM.
#10
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Now, it may be possible to do the job without the special tools (9110 might be replaced with a crow's foot and the flywheel lock could be improvised, for example) but if you get this job wrong you'll end up with bigger problems than an oil leak.