Nicolaasdb

Wanted to drive my kid to a party...started the P and it sounded kind of ****ty..but then again it is a bit cold (for socal standards).

Looked up directions and saw that the check engine light was on....stopped and started the car again....but still the light stayed on.

Any suggestions?? Or can this be anything???

I have a feeling the P is not running on all cyl....but am not sure..
manual says it can be engine managment system....
Happy New year

now 2009 has to be better!!

Wellardmac

Nicolaas - sorry to hear about the problems - do you have a code reader? If not, try taking it along to a branch of Autozone and get them to read the codes. Once we have the codes we should be able to figure something out.

Do you smell unburned gasoline? The rough sounding engine and the smell of gas would be an indicator of bad oxygen sensors... then again if the car hasn't run for a while it may just be a transitory thing.

Here's one I have never seen before - I was behind a badly polluting truck a couple of days ago in my Acura - As soon as we came to a stop light and I (and my car) was forced to breathe in the junk it was sprewing out my check engine/emission system failure light came on - the truck caused it! I got home, checked the codes, reset the computer and all has been well.... it's funny what can temporarily cause a check engine light.

My buddy had a similar spurious check engine light a couple of months ago - I told him to disconnect the batter for 10 mins and try again - all was well after that. You might want to start by trying the same thing.

Nicolaasdb

i recently changed the battery and haven't used the car after....so maybe I am lucky...guess I have to wait till the 2nd to find out

Do you have the brand name for a code reader or do they all work??

thanks and happy New Year

Wellardmac

I'll keep my fingers crossed that you got lucky and the code went away.

There are many available and for you can pay a little or a lot, but as long as it's an OBDII reader you'll be fine.

I use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9135-...0781488&sr=8-3

Because it can read and clear the codes.

Having one off these around is a great investment as it allows you to do research and get an idea of the problem before a dealer goes crazy trying to charge diagnostic fees, etc. It's always nicer to be able to know what the problem is and fix it yourself, or walk into the shop and tell them what you know, rather than just hand them your wallet.

Good luck and happy new year! Isn't this your first year at home with the baby? Having kids around changes the holidays... hence the reason I'm sitting here at the computer on new years eve!

gota911

Nicolaas.

Sorry to hear about the problem with the car. I certainly hope it is nothing serious. Have a great New Year!

Tippy

Hopefully you just lost a coil pack.

LJpete

Duremetric is the code reader of choice for the Porsche. That being said, I had a car chip before I got the 996 and it works well but it reads the OBD II Codes instead of the internal Porsche codes. For basic diagnostics though it works well.

Hope this helps,

salayc

Coil failure can be disconcerting. Very rough running, sounds flat, and can have a strong exhaust smell.
Is there any smoke?

Macster

Removing battery caused engine controller to lose its learned fuel/ignition maps. Upon restart and if weather/climate conditions changed since engine last run coupled with an engine that may require adjustments/trims that are a bit away from the adjustments/trims it had when new then upon first restart after new battery installed engine can run rough and could set check engine light.

Just a chance though the symptom could portend something serious, much more serious. I would hate to advise you to start engine and let it idle a bit and see if behavior doesn't improve and then to drive car and give engine controller time to adapt to engine's needs.

If you buy code reader and after reading and writing down codes then clear error codes you'll erase not only error code(s) but also clear long term fuel trims and other learned stuff. Upon a cold restart engine could misbehave again if as I touched upon above if it's current requirements while still in tolerance are considerably different from what they were when engine new.

If you get a code reader, get one that also allows you to view and capture OBD II parameter info data, like (in this context) long term fuel trims. If after you clear the check engine light and erase error codes and these are reset back to 0 and then after driving you see one or both creep up to say 6 or 8 (or down to -6 or -8) this is getting close to the max +/- 10 (%) adjustment available. If engine controller has to go beyond this amount it will set an error code and turn on check engine light.

Then the reason for this needs to be diagnosed and addressed.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Nicolaasdb

damn.....soo much great info!!

I will get a code reader tomorrow and hopefully it is going to be my lucky day....if not....the P looks very nice on my drive way.

I haven't been driving it for the longest time and I guess (hope, pray!!) this and the dead battery change might be the problem.

I'll keep you guys posted

About the smoke...there was some smoke..but then again it way cold and humid and night....so it could have been normal.

keeping my fingers crossed!!

Analog Theory

Could be a bad MAF. Is your intake stock or aftermarket (i.e K&N snorkel)?

Macster

If you want any hope of getting closer to cause of symptom working on your own a code reader/data viewer is required.

Post codes (and freeze frame data) and if necessary other parameter info data (long term trims, etc.) as well.

Might be battery change and inactivity just coincidence and something else -- not too serious -- is at root of problem. MAF has been mentioned and these due fail. Should be able to disconnect MAF at wiring harness and start/run engine. If symptoms no longer present, MAF.

Another thought: If car has been sitting a ong time unused -- and I don't know what this time is in your car's case -- but anyhow if unused a long time it could have suffered a rodent infestation and these gnawing creatures can play heck with wiring harness and all sorts of problems arise from this.

Or it may be something serious. (However, if mice for instance just wait until you price cost of new wiring harness and you'll know what not so serious can cost.)

Sincerely,

Macster.

cdodkin

If you're around San Diego area I have a code reader you can use - let me know via PM.

If you're up in LA and don't want to travel - I'd point you to your nearest Harbor Freight store to pick up one of these code readers:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94217



Chris.

K996

Nick,
I had a similar problem a few years ago, it only really occurred on cold mornings (let's say below 60F). Very rough running on start up (misfire, stalling, etc.)

I couldn't diagnose the problem until I took the airbox off then it was immediately apparent....the oil filler tube (the bellows part) had a crack in it. Since this is under vacuum in normal conditions the leak seriously affected the engine. My car is a 99 so it was maybe 7 years old at the time.

Replaced the filler tube and problem solved.

Hope this helps,
Keith

Nicolaasdb

thanks guys for all the replies...and yes I got a K&N air filter, will change this back to the original and will get a code reader....

thanks for the offer cdodkin..I live in huntington Beach about 100 miles from you and with the P running this would have been a great reason for a drive! But now I got to first find the problem.

Rodents is out of the question..... all cables look good....crack somewhere in cable is possible.
I am glad to read that you guys don't think the worst like I did..which was engine failure!!

I'll take a picture of the code reader and will post it asap.

Happy Newyear (and even better if the problem is minor!)