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Check Engine Light after Oil Change

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Old 06-28-2008, 01:58 AM
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pobox604
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Default Check Engine Light after Oil Change

Hey Guys,

This is the second time where I've had an oil change done and my CEL comes on later that day. The 1st time, the dealer said the cap was loose and asked if I had tinkered with it (???).

It's now Friday night, so I can't go back to the dealer until Monday. I'm assuming it's the same problem. I tried tightening the cap, but it seems tight to me. Is there a trick to securing the cap that I should be aware of?

Thanks!
Old 06-28-2008, 02:14 AM
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cdodkin
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No trick - just make sure it's on true.

An OBDII scanner would be a useful tool at this point, to read and diagnose the CEL code, then reset it.
Old 06-28-2008, 09:32 AM
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pat056
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The oil cap's about the only thing that I could think of. What year is your car? On my 1999, I can clear a code by disconnecting the battery. Or take it to Advance Auto and they can maybe ID and clear for you free.
Old 06-28-2008, 12:12 PM
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Just a thought....

Sometimes people pull out the oil filler tube on the 996 to make pouring the oil in easier (it's designed to allow this).

If pulled out too far and it has become detached - or if the filler pipe has developed a leak at the bellows, that could cause your issue, even with the cap on correctly.

Here - unclipped and moved to one side



You can se the bellows where splits can occur, and you should also check where the tube is connected at the base.
Old 06-28-2008, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pat056
The oil cap's about the only thing that I could think of. What year is your car? On my 1999, I can clear a code by disconnecting the battery. Or take it to Advance Auto and they can maybe ID and clear for you free.
I've got a 1999 as well.

Originally Posted by cdodkin
Just a thought....

Sometimes people pull out the oil filler tube on the 996 to make pouring the oil in easier (it's designed to allow this).

If pulled out too far and it has become detached - or if the filler pipe has developed a leak at the bellows, that could cause your issue, even with the cap on correctly.

Here - unclipped and moved to one side



You can se the bellows where splits can occur, and you should also check where the tube is connected at the base.
Thanks for the pic. I checked the filler tube and all looks good.



I checked the oil cap again and it appears tight. Will the CEL clear itself immediately once things are good? Or does it take time? Or it must be cleared manually?
Old 06-28-2008, 06:00 PM
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htny
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assuming the problem is resolved, the CEL should clear itself after 6 or 7 drive cycles

Drive over to any of the major national auto parts chains and ask to use their code reader, read, write down, then clear the code
Old 06-29-2008, 12:42 AM
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pobox604
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I tried tightening the cap again, but my car still doesn't feel right.

Oil pressure when the car is fully warmed up is hovering around 2-2.5, which is higher than normal.

Also, idle RPM is a little rough and driving in 1st and 2nd gear is a little jerky at times.

Are these symptoms directly related to a loose filler cap?
Old 06-29-2008, 01:55 PM
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cdodkin
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Originally Posted by pobox604
I tried tightening the cap again, but my car still doesn't feel right.

Oil pressure when the car is fully warmed up is hovering around 2-2.5, which is higher than normal.

Also, idle RPM is a little rough and driving in 1st and 2nd gear is a little jerky at times.

Are these symptoms directly related to a loose filler cap?
Getting the OBDII codes read from your car will really help here - is there someone you can borrow an OBDII scanner from?

Or maybe you'd consider buying one for these very occasions - they are a great investment for initial fault diagnosis.
Old 06-29-2008, 02:06 PM
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pobox604
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I would buy one if I planned to keep my car. I'm in the process of selling which is why the timing of this CEL really bites.

I guess I'll need to make an appt with the stealership.
Old 06-29-2008, 02:24 PM
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cdodkin
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Originally Posted by pobox604
I would buy one if I planned to keep my car. I'm in the process of selling which is why the timing of this CEL really bites.

I guess I'll need to make an appt with the stealership.
Yep - otherwise there is no way of diagnosing the CEL (without getting access to a code reader)

In the US, Autozone stores read the codes for free - any auto stores in BC do that for you?

There could be dozens of things that caused that CEL, and they could be completely unrelated to the recent oil change.

Something as simple as the gas cap not being on correctly!
Old 06-29-2008, 02:54 PM
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No Autozone here, but I just tried Lordco. They don't offer the free service, but can sell me an ODBII for $180-300! Ouch.

I'm seeing ODBII's on eBay for a fraction of that.
Old 06-29-2008, 08:12 PM
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You could always pick up the Durametric software, and sell it with the car. Possibly recoup your costs.
Old 06-29-2008, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pobox604
No Autozone here, but I just tried Lordco. They don't offer the free service, but can sell me an ODBII for $180-300! Ouch.

I'm seeing ODBII's on eBay for a fraction of that.
Ouch!

In the US we have Harbor Freight - but the nearest one to you is over 100 miles South.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94168



$39.99 US
Old 06-29-2008, 09:15 PM
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Wellardmac
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why can't you buy from Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw...canner&x=0&y=0
Old 06-30-2008, 10:04 PM
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C4CRNA
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Everyone should invest in a code reader!!! Take all this worry out of a CEL. The first trip you avoid going to the stealer you pay for the code reader.


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