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I was just expressing surprise that the coupling of the engine to the chassis would have an impact on the function of the knock sensors. I've never come across any consideration given to the coupling of the engine to the chassis when it comes to knock detection. I'd think that vibration from the transmission would be a bigger concern, but it's been a few years since I read much about that, so who knows what is being done lately?
I agree completely that solid mounts wouldn't be a good idea on a street car. At least not on my street car!
Gents: The Update. I'm very happy with the Wevo mounts now that they're installed.
Since I purchased my car over 2 years ago I could not figure out why the idle felt soo rough in the cabin of the car. With nobody in the passenger seat when you sat at idle you could see the passengers seat shaking back and forth from the vibrations in the interior. I changed the plugs, cleaned the TB, etc and all of these slightly improved the virbations at idle but I eventually chalked it up to being part of the experience of owning a car with a boxer configuration motor.
I'm happy to report that the issue was actually one of my factory mounts going bad and the car has VERY little, if any vibrations through the cabin at idle now with the new mounts. I'm sure new factory mounts would have been the same result for this particular issue.
I had also noticed that drive train slop was getting annoying to the point where it was difficult to pull away from a stop smoothly. This also has been cured with the new Wevo mounts in the car and I no longer feel like a 16 yr old learning to drive a manual transmission car every time I leave a stoplight.
Now to be fair, There are increased vibrations and harmonics associated with the new mounts. (even with the softer black pillows which I opted for on my install) Where I notice it the most is right in the 2800-3400 rpm range which happens to be where I do most of my cruising in gear. It's not annoying to the point where I'd consider taking the mounts out of my car BUT there is an in crease in vibrations through the car particularly in this RPM range that should be noted for those considering these mounts. What's weird is you hear more than you feel at higher RPM's...but at cruising RPM's where you really start to notice them it's more feel than sound. (did that make sense?).
Install was a breeze. 30 minutes start to finish. On the bolt size, I had previously researched and found on the GT3 forum that a M12 bolt in 130mm length was required. I went to my local Fastenal location and the longest they had was a 120mm length bolt. I'm not sure if the carrier is slightly different on the 996 vs. the GT3 but the 120mm length bolt is pleanty long. There's 10-15mm of thread sticking through the nut on the bottom even with using an additional washer against the engine plate.
They'll get track tested on Friday...though I really doubt I'll feel much of a difference at the track.
I actually no longer own the car but here was an observation I made. When the mounts were in the car I was completely happy with them. Driveline defletion was smaller, shifts felt better, great performance / track mod.
What I didn't pay attention to was the amount of increased harmonics that the mounts actually added inside the car. I replaced the one bad motor mount in the car and put stock motor mounts back in it when I sold the car. After putting stock mounts in i was pretty shocked at how drastic the change actually was between the two. When I first switched all I cared about were the advantages of the wevo mounts. When I went back It was like I almost missed how civil the car was without them. The biggest thing for me was that the most annoying place in the rev band you got the increased harmonics at was right where I'd cruise RPM whise while on the freeway (80mph).
I replaced the one bad motor mount in the car and put stock motor mounts back in it when I sold the car.
That might explain why the air pump electrical wire was unhooked, which was the cause of the nagging CEL. It wasn't the exhaust, nor seatbelt. Daddio is still loving the heck out of it!
That might explain why the air pump electrical wire was unhooked, which was the cause of the nagging CEL. It wasn't the exhaust, nor seatbelt. Daddio is still loving the heck out of it!
ARGGGGGGGGGG! Tell him sorry for me missing that! The pump needs to be moved to get easy access to the driver side mount. I'm such an idiot sometimes.
Glad to hear he's enjoying the car. I actually took the long way to work in the M3 this morning and was thinking about how it would have been better in the old red beauty.
how can you tell when it is time to change the motor mounts ?
I had a bad vibration inside the car at idle. Initially I jacked up the car from the rear jacking point on the engine and watched movement of the engine to determine if there was alot of play in them or not which gave me an initial idea that there was an issue. I really couldn't tell until I got them out of the car though. When I got them out it was clear the one was bad as the stud on the mount was very easy to move around with no resistance like the other side.
Another option is the 996 TT motor mounts which are more robust. I have them on my 996 race car though I would have gone to Wevo's except these were given to me. Oh and you can tell when your motor mounts broken when the guy behind you on grid pulls forward to tell you your motor is falling out ....
Since I purchased my car over 2 years ago I could not figure out why the idle felt soo rough in the cabin of the car. With nobody in the passenger seat when you sat at idle you could see the passengers seat shaking back and forth from the vibrations in the interior.
Andy
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