Custom Supercharger and FVD tuning
#121
Burning Brakes
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Well me a AAA are getting to be good friends now after another tow home during my last FVD MAP test. FVD gave me 4 base maps to test and log data to see which one works best, the first two the engine seemed to stall at idle from time to time so on the third map which was working really good especially at WOT when I broke another belt
. The break was a clean one with no signs of rubbing which gives me the idea that my belt tensioner is reaching the end of it's travel at WOT or it is just a cheap belt. Last time when I installed the new belt and relaxed the belt tensioner it snaps back 1/2-3/4" from full travel. maybe not enough just not sure but think I will try 1/2" size larger if I can find. Also anyone have any recommendations on good belts? Well also took a look under my car and looks like my RMS is leaking like a 4" puddle
I had a new seal put in during engine install using the newest seal and hope it was just installed improperly and will have to have that checked first before anymore runs. Regarding the belt I am using a "Gates Micro V".
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Last edited by Mother; 11-28-2011 at 09:38 PM.
#122
Race Car
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I run Gates belt too with no problem. Post a picture of the installed belt and maybe something obvious with the setup will show. You may be missing an important pulley.
#124
Burning Brakes
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1999 only pictures I had. You can see by the location of SC pulley that it is a straight shot to the alternator. If I am missing something why the need for extra pulleys in redridge pictures? The funny thing is that it is a clean break like it is stretched past it's limits. Also curious does anyone know about how far the belt tensioner comes back and contact belt after letting go of the belt tensioner bolt. Example almost to the of travel...in the middle .. or bearly have to push on tensioner to put belt on?
Last edited by Mother; 11-28-2011 at 09:38 PM.
#125
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WOW, if you snapped a Gates something is definitely wrong. The stress on the belt should be relatively low due to what, 5-6 lbs of boost? Even with the tensioner too tight, it should not snap the belt. Me and my S/C friends would have one with a pry bar prying and the other tightening the tensioner bolts. I am sure we exceeded what your tensioner could put out in force. Weird. Plus we ran boost from 8-14psi.
Is the belt making any funky angles that cause quick changes of direction possibly causing a whipping effect?
Is the belt making any funky angles that cause quick changes of direction possibly causing a whipping effect?
#126
Race Car
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It's reaaly hard to tell from your picture, but if I remember correctly, you are using a very short belt which leads me to believe you are bypassing a pulley. If the belt goes directly to the water pump from the tensioner....that's your problem. You need pulley 8 to eliminate pull. It all geometry.
#127
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No, but that's one fancy pants bracket!
Redridge mine is different I did not need the extra pulley, my sc is slightly lower then my alternator so I do not use any extra pulleys. Curious thought what is the belt routing through the bracket pulleys? You have one extra pulley on there for some reason. Can't seem to find pictures of back side of my bracket I'll keep looking.
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#128
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WOW, if you snapped a Gates something is definitely wrong. The stress on the belt should be relatively low due to what, 5-6 lbs of boost? Even with the tensioner too tight, it should not snap the belt. Me and my S/C friends would have one with a pry bar prying and the other tightening the tensioner bolts. I am sure we exceeded what your tensioner could put out in force. Weird. Plus we ran boost from 8-14psi.
Is the belt making any funky angles that cause quick changes of direction possibly causing a whipping effect?
Is the belt making any funky angles that cause quick changes of direction possibly causing a whipping effect?
#129
Race Car
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The tensioner has nothing to do with it as long as there is even the slightest slack in it. The belt must transverse all 9 pulleys, counting the SC's. How many do you use?
#130
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Mother, sorry to see the problems you are having with your pulley set up. It has got to be frustrating. Your engine sure looks nice and clean. When you did the interior of your's, did you have to remove the airbag control module? If so, what tool is required to remove the 2 opposing nuts on the control module? I posted a picture with my post.
Good luck with the SC. Let me know if you need any interior parts. I have a few extras.
Good luck with the SC. Let me know if you need any interior parts. I have a few extras.
#131
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It's reaaly hard to tell from your picture, but if I remember correctly, you are using a very short belt which leads me to believe you are bypassing a pulley. If the belt goes directly to the water pump from the tensioner....that's your problem. You need pulley 8 to eliminate pull. It all geometry.
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
#132
Race Car
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By the above picture on my routing shows the only thing that has changed is I have added a extra pulley (SC) about 6" furthor out from the alternator all other eng pulley's have stayed in the same stock positions. I am trying to make sense of the extra pulley but without a drawing of the belt routing I cannot see the relevence.![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
#133
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Mother, sorry to see the problems you are having with your pulley set up. It has got to be frustrating. Your engine sure looks nice and clean. When you did the interior of your's, did you have to remove the airbag control module? If so, what tool is required to remove the 2 opposing nuts on the control module? I posted a picture with my post.
Good luck with the SC. Let me know if you need any interior parts. I have a few extras.
Good luck with the SC. Let me know if you need any interior parts. I have a few extras.
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#134
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#135
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