Help: Need 996 Alignment Settings For Track
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Tippy
Pardon my ignorance but what is the sacrifice with track settings on the street? Tramlining? Excessive tire wear (obviously)? Twitchy?
#18
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by JimB
Setting aside camber, the toe settings you need to make a track car turn in make a street car pretty twitchy.
#19
How easy is it to simply loosen the struts in the rear and push them as far as they will go to negative in the strut mounting holes and forget having it aligned at the shop, especially since the fronts are at max negative 1.5? The fronts look easy to adjust on your own; are they easy to access and adjust in the rear? Will this change the toe, if so, in what way? Does it change anything else in the geometry of the set up and will be adverse?
#25
Okay, long one here. I had the car realigned (twice). The alignment shop was having difficulty, mainly with setting the rears evenly with camber and toe. These are the specifications- best they could do.
How should I expect the car to handle at the track? Any unwanted or undesirable surprises? I have new street tires I will be running? My car is lowered so I presume their alignment machine will read the camber values accurately regardless?
Left Front Camber: -1.2 degrees, Right Front Camber: -1.3 degrees
Left Rear Camber: -1.7 degrees, Right Rear Camber: -2.0 degrees
Left Front Toe: .02 degrees, Right Front Toe: .02 degrees
Left Rear Toe: .15 degrees, Right Rear Toe: .39 degrees
They commented one issue with chewing tires on the outside edges in the rear was that the toe was originally set at .29 on the left and .43 on the right which both were out of 996 spec. range. The new right rear toe is still a little out of spec (not too far out but they were not capable of setting close to the new left rear value of .15 keeping it within range). What are your thoughts?
BTW, I will be driving one three day weekend at Road Atlanta, removing the suspension, putting the stock stuff back on and selling the car, so this is not a long termer.
Thanks.
How should I expect the car to handle at the track? Any unwanted or undesirable surprises? I have new street tires I will be running? My car is lowered so I presume their alignment machine will read the camber values accurately regardless?
Left Front Camber: -1.2 degrees, Right Front Camber: -1.3 degrees
Left Rear Camber: -1.7 degrees, Right Rear Camber: -2.0 degrees
Left Front Toe: .02 degrees, Right Front Toe: .02 degrees
Left Rear Toe: .15 degrees, Right Rear Toe: .39 degrees
They commented one issue with chewing tires on the outside edges in the rear was that the toe was originally set at .29 on the left and .43 on the right which both were out of 996 spec. range. The new right rear toe is still a little out of spec (not too far out but they were not capable of setting close to the new left rear value of .15 keeping it within range). What are your thoughts?
BTW, I will be driving one three day weekend at Road Atlanta, removing the suspension, putting the stock stuff back on and selling the car, so this is not a long termer.
Thanks.
#26
My alignment guy only got -0.75 up front on my C2 Anniversary. I'd like to stay within stock SCCA autox class which prevents "slotting", "dremel" work, or camber plates. Any ideas how to get more camber? Does adjusting the caster change the camber in this car? It did in my RX-8. Thanks!
Same philosophy in general. So I tried rear camber at -1.0, zero toe front, minimal toe in rear. WOW. Very tail happy on street tires. I'll probably try in the rear -1.5 or so next time even though my car could get -2.25 in the rear. Too bad the front camber is so terrible!
#27
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Oegstgeest, the Netherlands
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Lots of interesting comments, to which I would like to add a few:
- If you're comfortable working on cars, a DIY alignment is really quite simple:
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=230&cat=10
and
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=232&cat=10
- I have an aggressive alignment as I drive 90%+ on track (-3.0 front and -2.5 rear camber, with neutral toe front and a total rear toe in of slightly less than 0.5 degrees), and for my street tires have them flipped on the rim by my friendly neighborhood mechanic. $10-15 per wheel for remounting / balancing is really cheap insurance and doubles the life of the tires.
JP
- If you're comfortable working on cars, a DIY alignment is really quite simple:
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=230&cat=10
and
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=232&cat=10
- I have an aggressive alignment as I drive 90%+ on track (-3.0 front and -2.5 rear camber, with neutral toe front and a total rear toe in of slightly less than 0.5 degrees), and for my street tires have them flipped on the rim by my friendly neighborhood mechanic. $10-15 per wheel for remounting / balancing is really cheap insurance and doubles the life of the tires.
JP
#28
Race Car
Back from the dead.
My alignment guy only got -0.75 up front on my C2 Anniversary. I'd like to stay within stock SCCA autox class which prevents "slotting", "dremel" work, or camber plates. Any ideas how to get more camber? Does adjusting the caster change the camber in this car? It did in my RX-8. Thanks!
My alignment guy only got -0.75 up front on my C2 Anniversary. I'd like to stay within stock SCCA autox class which prevents "slotting", "dremel" work, or camber plates. Any ideas how to get more camber? Does adjusting the caster change the camber in this car? It did in my RX-8. Thanks!
Can you stretch the rules and run X-73 suspension? It's a dealer installed factory porsche suspension. Sandard spring / shock combo. The ride height change alone would net you a much better camber number.