LVDell

True, but at the cost of tires corded SUPER fast.

JimB

Setting aside camber, the toe settings you need to make a track car turn in make a street car pretty twitchy.

LVDell

Way to sugarcoat that one

all623

How easy is it to simply loosen the struts in the rear and push them as far as they will go to negative in the strut mounting holes and forget having it aligned at the shop, especially since the fronts are at max negative 1.5? The fronts look easy to adjust on your own; are they easy to access and adjust in the rear? Will this change the toe, if so, in what way? Does it change anything else in the geometry of the set up and will be adverse?

AudiOn19s

Rear's aren't slotted at the top mounts. The rear uses an arm with eccentrick (sp?) bolt to adjust camber.

LVDell

just remove the "k"

all623

Thanks.

JimB

You guys crack me up.

all623, the problem with changing camber yourself is that changing camber changes toe. Otherwise your idea is not half bad.

MagnusB

So how fast would a -1.5 camber eat tires when driving street?

all623

Okay, long one here. I had the car realigned (twice). The alignment shop was having difficulty, mainly with setting the rears evenly with camber and toe. These are the specifications- best they could do.

How should I expect the car to handle at the track? Any unwanted or undesirable surprises? I have new street tires I will be running? My car is lowered so I presume their alignment machine will read the camber values accurately regardless?

Left Front Camber: -1.2 degrees, Right Front Camber: -1.3 degrees
Left Rear Camber: -1.7 degrees, Right Rear Camber: -2.0 degrees
Left Front Toe: .02 degrees, Right Front Toe: .02 degrees
Left Rear Toe: .15 degrees, Right Rear Toe: .39 degrees

They commented one issue with chewing tires on the outside edges in the rear was that the toe was originally set at .29 on the left and .43 on the right which both were out of 996 spec. range. The new right rear toe is still a little out of spec (not too far out but they were not capable of setting close to the new left rear value of .15 keeping it within range). What are your thoughts?

BTW, I will be driving one three day weekend at Road Atlanta, removing the suspension, putting the stock stuff back on and selling the car, so this is not a long termer.

Thanks.

balefire

Back from the dead.
My alignment guy only got -0.75 up front on my C2 Anniversary. I'd like to stay within stock SCCA autox class which prevents "slotting", "dremel" work, or camber plates. Any ideas how to get more camber? Does adjusting the caster change the camber in this car? It did in my RX-8. Thanks!

Same philosophy in general. So I tried rear camber at -1.0, zero toe front, minimal toe in rear. WOW. Very tail happy on street tires. I'll probably try in the rear -1.5 or so next time even though my car could get -2.25 in the rear. Too bad the front camber is so terrible!

flyingpenguin

Lots of interesting comments, to which I would like to add a few:

- If you're comfortable working on cars, a DIY alignment is really quite simple:
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=230&cat=10
and
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...uct=232&cat=10

- I have an aggressive alignment as I drive 90%+ on track (-3.0 front and -2.5 rear camber, with neutral toe front and a total rear toe in of slightly less than 0.5 degrees), and for my street tires have them flipped on the rim by my friendly neighborhood mechanic. $10-15 per wheel for remounting / balancing is really cheap insurance and doubles the life of the tires.

JP

AudiOn19s

You can't adjust caster either without parts that would be illegal for your class. You're pretty well dicked for camber.

Can you stretch the rules and run X-73 suspension? It's a dealer installed factory porsche suspension. Sandard spring / shock combo. The ride height change alone would net you a much better camber number.