Cheap brake rotors
#1
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Where is the cheapest brake rotors to buy, mine are spent. I am going to try and turn the fronts but the backs are out of spec for sure. Also what is a good STREET pad, I dont track. Thanks in advance, as long as someone replies, HA.
#4
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Originally Posted by Tippy
Where is the cheapest brake rotors to buy, mine are spent. I am going to try and turn the fronts but the backs are out of spec for sure. Also what is a good STREET pad, I dont track. Thanks in advance, as long as someone replies, HA.
#6
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disco - thanks, that is pretty cheap
According to the shop manual Porsche allows 0.040" wear so I assumed you could turn the rotors half that or less and be within spec. I believe the rotors have about 0.010" to 0.015" wear right now. Just trying to save a little money for the holidays.
According to the shop manual Porsche allows 0.040" wear so I assumed you could turn the rotors half that or less and be within spec. I believe the rotors have about 0.010" to 0.015" wear right now. Just trying to save a little money for the holidays.
#7
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Related question: The dealer likes to replace rotors and pads together on a brake service. Makes sense when you replace brakes twice in 100k miles like I am sure many folks do.
I drive mine street, daily. I use stock pads because of this. But I do 6+ DE's a year and can haul along pretty well. (read: those pads wear out fast!) Lots of folks seem to just replace pads and not the rotors when they burn thru pads at the track.
I know the issue with the rotors is thickness. For DIY, how can I determine if I need rotors and pads, or just pads? Track buddies say they watch the rotors for micro cracks and replace them when they micro crack near the drill vent holes. This is a bit less scientific an approach than I usually like to take when going 100+ hehe.
Any input? I need to get into the DIY brakes, am tired of paying dealer prices... How can I tell when rotors need replacment and when it isn't safe/right to just swap pads?
I drive mine street, daily. I use stock pads because of this. But I do 6+ DE's a year and can haul along pretty well. (read: those pads wear out fast!) Lots of folks seem to just replace pads and not the rotors when they burn thru pads at the track.
I know the issue with the rotors is thickness. For DIY, how can I determine if I need rotors and pads, or just pads? Track buddies say they watch the rotors for micro cracks and replace them when they micro crack near the drill vent holes. This is a bit less scientific an approach than I usually like to take when going 100+ hehe.
Any input? I need to get into the DIY brakes, am tired of paying dealer prices... How can I tell when rotors need replacment and when it isn't safe/right to just swap pads?
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#15
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Originally Posted by Patrick
I'll take the 2mm.