Sids911

I'd done this mod and I love it. Check my posts in this thread. I got the idea from 1999Porsche911 - so give him credit !

Secondly, the wider the bypassing pipe you put, the LOUDER it will get. I think I used 2.25" or 2" - can't recall.

Given that, if you want to know what the REAL PSE uses, you should measure (or politely request someone else to measure) the external diameter of the actual PSE's bypass pipe.

Alternatively, if you have direct face-on photo (i.e. no parallax) of the real PSE you could simply measure (eg. zoom on-screen -> measure with a ruler etc) and compare the bypass pipe with the outlet pipe. This way you'll know if its smaller/equal/larger than the outlet and also by what fraction. Then measure your own mufflers' outlet pipe diameter and calculate the bypass pipe's real diameter.

Finally, please go to a reputed muffler shop to get this done. You don't want any weak welds or any gaps ! The (very) hot exhaust can damage plastic/rubber around if it escapes at unexpected places.

Also, the muffler guys are generally more familiar with keeping the pipes joints at smooth angles (eg. Y vs T) - smooths the airflow. I'd imagine a shop welding iron fences etc wouldn't know all that from experience.

Depending on where you live, the welding itself can be between $60-200.

Hope that helps and most importantly - ENJOY !

donuts

Thanks for the help, much appreciated. How loud is yours relative to Fabspeed, AWE etc? Can you describe how yours sounds? How much quieter do you think it will be with 2" as opposed to 2.25"? Thanks!

waldrondigital

I got completely impatient and just drilled two 1/2" holes near the bottom of each newly modded cans near the exhaust inlet so I can have a little more growl [simulated ghetto V1 MOD] while I wait for my 3.6 cans. Sounds pretty cool for 20 minutes of drilling. Now that's super-ghetto!

mcmike

Oh no, ghetto mods and in my neighborhood even!
I've been trying to decide what to do with mine...but I've been leaning towards
PSE...I'll be interested to hear your findings.

-Mike

waldrondigital

donuts... yuuummmm

I'd say for the best sound per dollar spent go 2 1/4". It fits nicely over the 'nipple' that you cut in the corner of the can. I can't wait to get my 3.6 cans and see what they can do!

My hole in the muffler mod is a nice temporary solution - I just couldn't take spending 7 hours of hard work with no marketable sound improvement.

ArneeA

I couldn't find a 3.6L pair of mufflers if my life depended on it. I'm going to check the local salvage yard.

vove

I've heard the modded 3.6L mufflers and was very impress with the sound. Its no PSE but you can't beat it for the price.

gota911

I installed my 3.6L PSE "hack" on Friday! Some of you may remember that I had done the 3.4L PSE "hack" mod about a year ago and, while they were louder than my stock 3.6L mufflers, I was a little disappointed that they were not louder and deeper sounding.

Special thanks to Ray S. who was kind enough to give me his stock 3.6L mufflers for free so I had the muffler shop mod them (cost $60). They sound deeper and louder than the 3.4L PSE "hack."

While I have not heard my stock mufflers for about a year, I'll try to give a relative comparison between the two PSE "hacks" (3.4L & 3.6L) and REAL PSE mufflers which I heard in person about 4 months ago.

Stock 3.4L mufflers modded with MK II PSE "hack" = 30% to 35% of real PSE mufflers.
Stock 3.6L mufflers modded with MK II PSE "hack" = 80% to 85% of real PSE mufflers.

I hope this helps.

I also received a PM about what the "hack" looks like, so here are a couple of pics. Please note that the muffler shown on the left is a 3.4L muffler, but the mod is the same for the 3.6L mufflers. The 3rd pic shows true PSE mufflers.

CosmosC4S

How long does it take to swap the cans, Tim? (Remove and install)

Anyone else sponsoring 3.6L mufflers?

gota911

Ken - It took me about 1.5 to 2 hours per side, so 3 to 4 hours total. This includes time to remove/reinstall both rear wheels.

You have to loosen 2 nuts on the clamp (#29) which connects the muffler to the cats (slide the clamp off the muffler and on to the cat), then remove the group of 3 nuts on the bracket (#16 circled group).

Once the mufflers are out, you can remove the tail pipe connector (#22). Take note of how the tail pipe is connected to the muffler, specifically how the "dimple" in the curved tail pipe aligns with the muffler pipe. You will need to align this "dimple" in the same manner on the "new" mufflers.

If your "new" mufflers did not come with the brackets (#28) remove the bracket bolts (#24 & #25) and transfer the brackets to the "new" mufflers.

Now attach the tail pipe to the "new" mufflers and reverse the process to install the mufflers.

If you have access to pneumatic tools, the time can be reduced by AT LEAST 50%.

Hope this helps.

ArneeA

I dropped off the cans that I got from a fellow member here last week and my muffler guy put a 2.25" stainless steel pipe. He installed the cans on Sat. I love the sound but more importantly, it doesn't drone! With the lift and proper tools, it took him 1 hr to install the cans.

I need a lift in the garage.

Ray S

Tim, I'm glad you were able to use them. My wife thanks you for getting them out of my garage!

stanm5

The positive comments are making me think that the PSE hack may sound better than my GHL's.
Are there instructions somewhere on what exactly the muffler shop needs to do? I can see from the pics that a 2.5" pipe is welded but what exactly is the procedure?

Thanks,
Stan

ArneeA

??? No instructions needed.

BEFORE



AFTER

CosmosC4S

TIM, Thanks for the instructions and the diagram!

Now I'll wait for the next available sponsor for the 3.6L mufflers...