Trailering the 996
#1
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Trailering the 996
Got an 18' open deck Bri-Mar for trailering. Dealer sold me four 10k straps to tie it down. Looking for advice on where to set the straps on the car. I know you should cross them. The dealer said to go around the whishbones but not too happy about that. The car is a stock 2003 996. Thanks.
#2
Race Director
I use straps through the rims as low as possible and allow the suspension on the car to do its thing unencumbered. I use straps with a sewn loop at one end. The other end (flat) is fed through the rim, fed through the loop and then fed into the ratchet. Works like a charm and it's easy. Straps are from M&R from Vineland NJ.
It works going up to Tremblant on bombed out Quebec roads from Hell. (200km)
It works going up to Tremblant on bombed out Quebec roads from Hell. (200km)
#3
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Be VERY careful! Your owners manual tells how to do it. If the wheels will not allow you to go through them then go and buy a set of the lug nut tie down hooks.
How do I know this. My 02 came delivered by a guy that went over the rear trailing arms to get to the rear sub frame Broke both rear trailing arms Cost him $350 including an alignment.
How do I know this. My 02 came delivered by a guy that went over the rear trailing arms to get to the rear sub frame Broke both rear trailing arms Cost him $350 including an alignment.
#4
buy a set of trailer hooks - they are eye bolts that attach to the frame of the car in the front and rear. it makes it easy to attach the straps to the car and your not playing around with going through the rims.
As for the straps themselves, there are many different schools of thought. On my maiden trailering voyage (last week) I crossed both the front and back straps and didn't have any problems. Some say to cross only one but it doesn't matter which one.
Either way, you should leave the car in NEUTRAL (don't want to mess up the trans) and set the e brake (as long as the rotors have cooled) and you should be fine. One other point, make sure that you get the car as far forward as possible to add tongue weight since most of the weight of the car is in the rear. This will help with swaying.
You may also want to get anti-sway and load distribution attachments to your trailer. This also changes the hitch that you you, however. It does help.
Steve
2003 996
As for the straps themselves, there are many different schools of thought. On my maiden trailering voyage (last week) I crossed both the front and back straps and didn't have any problems. Some say to cross only one but it doesn't matter which one.
Either way, you should leave the car in NEUTRAL (don't want to mess up the trans) and set the e brake (as long as the rotors have cooled) and you should be fine. One other point, make sure that you get the car as far forward as possible to add tongue weight since most of the weight of the car is in the rear. This will help with swaying.
You may also want to get anti-sway and load distribution attachments to your trailer. This also changes the hitch that you you, however. It does help.
Steve
2003 996
#5
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Definitely install a set of Autometrics tie down hooks:
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...%20Suspension:
$79 for front and rear.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...96tiedowns.jpg
I only use tire straps in emergencies; otherwise chassis tie down hooks.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...%20Suspension:
$79 for front and rear.
http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...96tiedowns.jpg
I only use tire straps in emergencies; otherwise chassis tie down hooks.
#6
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by smankow
be sure that you get the car as far forward as possible to add tongue weight since most of the weight of the car is in the rear. This will help with swaying.
The best thing is to get a tongue scale and put your car in it till you find the PERFECT spot for the car to be located and then mark that spot. Guess what? MY perfect spot in my Pace Enclosed 20' car trailer is NOWHERE close to the front. Weight load distribution over the axles is VERY IMPORTANT!
#7
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Guess what? MY perfect spot in my Pace Enclosed 20' car trailer is NOWHERE close to the front. Weight load distribution over the axles is VERY IMPORTANT!
Correct. The spot in my Pace 25' is far back also.
Correct. The spot in my Pace 25' is far back also.
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#10
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I'd second the use of the Autometric loops. I've been using them on my race car for awhile and they work great. Regarding crossing vs straight straps, you really can't cross the front straps with the Autometric loops. They will bend if not pulled straight forward. It works fine to cross them in back though. Also the front's hang down a bit so expect to ding them if your car is lowered. Not a big issue though. They are pretty tough.
If you haven't trailered your car before it's very helpful to hook up with someone that has to help you get the weight set right and to tell you about load levers etc.
Jim
If you haven't trailered your car before it's very helpful to hook up with someone that has to help you get the weight set right and to tell you about load levers etc.
Jim
#11
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OK I'll ask. Which is the better way to tie down a car on a trailer? Through the wheels and allow the car's suspension do it's thing, or use frame mounted tie down points? I have used the wheels for securing the car to my trailer, but I like the idea of the tie down points as I think it would be a little easier to use.
#12
Nordschleife Master
Personally, I use the "through the wheel" method to allow the car to move on its own suspension. If I didn't use that method I would use the lugnut tie down method. Preventing the car from moving on its own suspension is asking for trouble.
#14
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oh also, where can you get there "lug nut tie down hooks"? ^
and this
"buy a set of trailer hooks - they are eye bolts that attach to the frame of the car in the front and rear. it makes it easy to attach the straps to the car and your not playing around with going through the rims"
sounds like just screwing the front and rear tow hooks in and using those (which isn't that bad of an idea in some cases)
and this
"buy a set of trailer hooks - they are eye bolts that attach to the frame of the car in the front and rear. it makes it easy to attach the straps to the car and your not playing around with going through the rims"
sounds like just screwing the front and rear tow hooks in and using those (which isn't that bad of an idea in some cases)
#15
penguin, your idea of "buy a set of trailer hooks" being the same as using the front and rear tow hooks cannot be further from the truth. The tow hooks are used for winches or tow trucks to move the car not to secure a vehicle for towing on a trailer.
the hooks that I use are similar to the autometric ones and work fine. They are easy to use and not too hard to reach under the car. I'd recommend them.
Steve
the hooks that I use are similar to the autometric ones and work fine. They are easy to use and not too hard to reach under the car. I'd recommend them.
Steve