With some help from RJFab Cab and TC(Houston), from the Funcars board, the B&M short shifter was installed in my 996 today. I will post pics and details about the install later.
A few points about the install are worth mentioning. It didn't take long at all, about 2 hours or so and we were being quite careful taking our time, could probably be done in an hour as advertised in the instructions. The B&M instructions were very good for the most part, although I felt the pictures could have been a lot better. There were also a couple of details not really mentioned that I picked up on the boards over the last few days- thanks Loren . The other thing is the whole cutting the stock bearings issue is a non-issue. If you ever wanted to go back to stock it appears you could easily re-use the high quality B&M bearings with the stock shifter, they fit perfectly . I was also somewhat underwehlmed at the excessive use of plastic parts on the 996, especially the shifter mechanism itself. What's that about being the most profitable auto manufacturer in the world.
Finally we took the car out for a short test drive after the successful shifter transplant and my first impression is wow! What a total change in the shift engagement over stock. The gear changes are very positive and very direct. It requires only a moderate amount of increased effort to get into reverse and the other gears are quite easy, just more positive.
Overall an A+ upgrade, I'll have more pics and a longer test drive review soon.

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Doug, I recently (last week) installed the B & M in my car. I totally agree with your comments! What a great upgrade for the money! Next to the exhaust, it's my favorite, you notice the quick shifts every time you drive. I have to agree about the photos! B&M could get some better shots in certain places!

 

I have helped put in about 10 of them and everyone seems to like it once they get use to the new feel. On the last install I was curious and checked the fit of the B&M bearings on the oem shift and it looked like you could go back to oem w/o having to buying a new shift tower. Next time I will do just this and hook it up to make sure none of the angles or cable adjustment is changed with the B&M bearings. Jeff

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Tool pants,
I notice you put your adjustment set screw on the rear bearing instead of the front. I have mine on the front per the directions, but I think yours makes more sense. Any problems?

 

The original B&M kit was plain teflon bushings with no set screw. Then, is was the same plastic bushings with an aluminumn housing and with a set screw on the end.

Then, some say you need to have the set screw on the top or bottom. Instructions say on the top, but I do it on the bottom. Jeff

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that funny! I needed that!

 

Does the "family" size can come as an option?? How 'bout single size, or is that just for racing 'cause it saves weight?

 

I should add that another reason for placing the bushing that has the provision for the set screw and jam nut adjustment in the rear, and not the front as is shown on a picture on the B&M instructions, is that you can adjust it after everything is installed by popping off the shift boot. If this bushing is in the front then you have to remove the center console to adjust the set screw. But then again I have not had to make any adjustment as we do this on the work bench b/f everything is put back in and together. Jeff

 

Don't you have that backwards TP? If the adjustment is on the front (towards the front of the car) you have quick access when the shift boot is removed. Maybe we're talking about the same thing.
I now believe the adjustment must go on the front. I just tried an experiment, with the set screw at the rear (towards the rear of the car)I noted a significant increase in shift effort to engage reverse when adjusted to approx. the same tolerance as my original front end adjustment.
I now have the set screw setup on the original front bearing location with a slightly increased amount of forward and rearward play than my prior install. There is now no increased effort to engage reverse and overall shift effort is at/near stock levels yet with the same short throw and positive engagement.

 

Just drove the car ans although improved, still a little "stiffer" than I would like. Next step I'll make sure the cables are set properly.

 

I installed the B&M last night and just wanted to add one detail to this thread in case anybody else is using it for reference.

I concur the locknut/adjuster should go toward the front. Very accessible by unsnapping the boot.

This next part was mentioned in another post but not elaborated. In the part of the instructions where they show that strange 1-2-3 step of twisting a spring loaded housing to remove the cable connection to the shifter, take the time to mark the cable shaft position relative to the plastic housing. My shaft was a bit greasy so wiping it before marking may help the ink to stick. The reason for this is the cable shaft can be snapped into any position (fore and aft) in the plastic housing effectively creating the "adjustment" for throws relative to transmission placement. To save the hassle (and stress) of trying to find the optimal adjustment point, mark that shaft so you can just snap it into the correct position the first time.

If you forget to mark it or the mark rubs off, the optimal right side position (forward and back on the stick) is easy enough to figure out. The left side seems a little complicated because there are four different positions to discern. Luckily, I marked the left side before disassembly.

Otherwise, I love the feel. It's definitely stiffer and notchier. I just have to get out of the habit of grabbing the shifter below the **** which was my former version of home-made short throw!

Andy