JasonAndreas

What is the source of that chart, TSB or owner's manual? The TSBs I have that include that chart use it to show the temperature range at which oils of different viscosity classes will operate at. In the TSB it has nothing to do with approved and/or recommended oils, it is only meant as an explanation. If the chart is also used in the owners manual could you post the surrounding text? Here is the rest of the text used in the TSBs;

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Oil Quality and Non-Conventional Basic Oils:

The basic oil and the additives added to it essentially determine the properties of engine oil. Non-conventional basic oils (synthetic or hydrocrack) have more favorable properties as compared to conventional oils (mineral oil). Non-conventional oils are relatively similar with respect to performance, regardless of whether they were produced using the synthetic or hydrocrack process.

In our approved oil list (Type column), the engine oils are identified as follows:

ncp = basic oil not produced conventionally - "non-conventional processing" (synthetic or hydrocrack).

pnp = basic oil with "partially non-conventional processing" (synthetic blend).

cp = basic oil produced conventionally - "conventional processing" (mineral oil). (Engine oil of this quality is no longer approved for Porsche vehicles)

Non-Seasonal "GL" Light Running Oils:

CL oils have good light running properties because of their light low-temperature viscosity as well as a high level of temperature stability. They have a particularly low tendency to evaporate at high temperatures due to their composition. The oils, that meet such high performance requirements, essentially synthetic or hydrocrack oils, can be used without restriction as non-seasonal oils (see approval list, "Type" column).

Non-Seasonal "G" Oils:

"G" oils can be used as non-seasonal oil, but do not have the same light running properties as "GL" oils

Viscosity and Temperature Ranges:

The viscosity of oil depends on the viscosity setting of the oil, identified through the SAE classes and the respective temperature. Engine oils in SAE category 5W-40 or 5W-50 can be used at temperatures down to -25°C (-13°F). Oils of viscosity class 0W-40 can be used at lower temperatures as well.

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just a thought...
Porsche has been using 0-40 since January 24, 2001 which is close to 2 years after the first 996? I believe with the two previous models 964 and 993 they also changed oil specifications after a similar length of time had passed. Is it possible that Porsche is making changes based on what they are seeing with the engines they get back from customers and from long term testing?

dirtrack49

Gee, does anyone remember what the original post to this thread was???

BSC...My 2002 C2 with 28,900 miles on it, one week left of warranty, is now at a Porsche Dealership having its second RMS. First one was done at 9,400 miles. The seal was weeping so slightly, that I was about to not even bother, but since it is still under warranty for another week....oh well, might as well go with the latest and greatest that Porsche has to offer.

When this seal gives up, which I am sure it will, I will have them do it again with the latest offering and go for the two years under warranty. If I am lucky, I will get them to do it under goodwill. If Porshe does not want to do it under goodwill, then I will fork out the $800-1000 to fix it, since I knew when I bought the car that this was a design flaw.

My thought on the matter is, the warranty is 48 months or 50k miles, what happens after that is the owners responsibility. However, when the warranty expires, and you know that this is a well known problem, then you might as well go to the factory rep and try the goodwill routine.

When I worked for Honda, any known reoccuring problem that was not a recall, which showed up in a car after the 36/36 warranty expired, Honda took care of. To bad Porsche doesn't do the same.

I own several vehicles, some of which get driven less then 300 miles a year. All this talk about how much you drive, how hard you drive, and what type of oil you use is a bunch of crap. As long as you keep oil in an engine, and drive it on a regular basis, you really have nothing to worry about.

Get the damn thing fixed, goodwill or not, and enjoy it!

Tom L
2002 C2 RMS PIG

fast1

My thought on the matter is, the warranty is 48 months or 50k miles, what happens after that is the owners responsibility. However, when the warranty expires, and you know that this is a well known problem, then you might as well go to the factory rep and try the goodwill routine.

When I worked for Honda, any known reoccuring problem that was not a recall, which showed up in a car after the 36/36 warranty expired, Honda took care of. To bad Porsche doesn't do the same.

Based on the posts that I've read, it seems like it's hit or miss with Porsche repairing RMS for cars out of warranty. I'm beginning to wonder if the Dealer has a large part to play in the success rate of goodwill coverage. For example I know of two cases where Porsche did RMS repairs on cars that were well beyond the warranty expiration. In both cases the owners bought their cars from the Dealer and had 100% of their maintenance work performed by the Dealer.

TT Surgeon

1k repairs are nothing on a porsche, my freakin tires cost more than that. If that price point seriously sets you back, maybe a porsche is not the best choice for a DD, given the high cost of routine maintenance on these cars. jmo.

Mother

I used to work on heavy commercial jets and they all seemed to leak just sitting there, but take them out for a spin and they seem to just seal up... maybe some similarities here on the usage of the car and RMS, As far as oil I live in Phoenix and in the summer it can get over 120 degrees F + and have used nothing but castrol 15-50W all year around in my BMW.

Kevin H. in Atl..

SR-71 Blackbird would leak fuel onto the tarmac but not at altitude. Metals expand when subjected to heat. Due to the extreme temperatures generated by the high speeds/altitude of the Blackbird, the design had to allow for the expansion of metals (even titanium) during operation. As a result, the tanks when cool, would leak.

dirtrack49

My RMS started leaking as soon as I brought it home. I bought the car used. It had sat for a good three months. Drove the **** out of it for a couple of weeks, and never saw a drop of oil on the ground again.

Since it is going out of warranty next week, I took it to the dealer who is going to do another RMS since I am showing a very slight weep from that area.

I believe that not driving any vehicle on a consistant basis, has alot to do with how much oil or fluid leaks it may acquire over time.

Tom L
2002 C2 RMS PIG

JasonAndreas

slightly off-topic BUT, more oil related discussions from today.

Mother

Now I remember why I always wore a cap when I was under the BlackBird.

infestation

I drive my 997s every day and I had the RMS problem early on (under 5,000 miles), but I haven't had any issues whatsoever since. I now have nearly 23,000 miles on my car and counting.