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Old 06-21-2005, 02:42 AM
  #76  
programmatore
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On the contrary, the car is a daily driver. That's why I make sure it is protected with Zaino.

Lee, you won't be disappointed with Zaino. It is just as easy to apply as NXT but it lasts longer and the shine is great.
Old 06-21-2005, 03:03 AM
  #77  
leedav
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So I want the z5? Do I need the accelerator stuff?
Old 06-21-2005, 03:29 AM
  #78  
c4bliss
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You dont have to have the accelerator, but it goes quicker with it. I used without, and started with the Z5 since i had swirls and small scratches (due to improper training, i am sorry, i used a mit on the car). Two coats of Z5 and it is scratch/swirl free. I order the kit to finish the job
Old 06-21-2005, 07:58 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by StanSoph
Lokks like day to me. Did you use a buffer? I think I am going to bite the bullet and buy one. Your car looks awesome. A lot of work, but worth it.
I used a porter cable dual action with orange pads for cleaner/anti-swirl, black pad for glaze, white pad for wax, and red pad for top-coat NXT. I'm pretty conservative and always felt that a power buffer would be too abrasive on the paint. I also thought that it would be only useful on large panels and not for detail work. None of this turned out to be true when I finally bought the PC. The first advantage is that it guarantees that consistent pressure is applied throughout -- when you polish by hand, some areas get too much pressure and others don't get enough. Also, with a dual action device, it is pretty much impossible to do any harm because it basically does what you would do by hand, but it does it a hundred times better (there are circular buffers that require significant skill to use, but DA devices are pretty foolproof). Also, on detail areas like around window frames the DA is much better because it spreads out the polish so thinly that it doesn't get stuck in the seams. Literally within about 30 seconds of using the PC for the first time I was kicking myself for not getting it sooner. I wouldn't say it makes the job much faster -- but it works much, much better than what is possible by hand. If you want to get one, you need the DA device, a velcro pad, and various pads for the polish types. I bought mine from Classic Motoring Accessories because they also sold a pad kit with detailed info about which pads to use.
Old 06-21-2005, 08:11 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by leedav
I was wondering about the clay bar. I have one, and the few things I've attempted with it haven't worked..each thing I tried turned out to be something that wanted a little more abrasive. One was a slight stain that came out with Scratch-X and the other was the etched clearcoat from the wiper solvent.

Anyway, to the point... what was the consensus on whether all wax had to be removed before clay bar, and whether a synthetic (such as Rejex or NXT) would be removed by a washing with dish soap?
The clay bar isn't abrasive at all, so it won't reallly rub through any problem areas like a compound will and isn't useful for that. What it is useful for is pulling contaminants and dirt from the paint. Run your fingers over the paint and you will feel surface imperfections -- after claying, it will feel perfectly smooth -- it won't look much different, but polishing works much better with clay as the first step because there are no imperfections to affect the polishing process. After you're done polishing with clay as a first step, you won't believe how smooth the paint surface feels. If you don't remove the imperfections, then the polish only gets the top part of the small raised bump, so you can't duplicate what clay does using an abrsasive instead. Claying should be done as the first step prior to removing the wax because the wax-removing polishing step and all subsequent steps will be more effective if you clay first. The clay does pull the dirt out of wax effectively. I recommend using detailer spray rather than Dawn as lubricant though. Claying is a very easy -- it only takes a few minutes to go over the paint and there is no buffing afterwards because the detail spray requires a simple wipedown.
Old 06-21-2005, 03:31 PM
  #81  
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Peterp agree with everything you said. Get a PC and a goot pad set and you will wonder how you did without. However, clay contains abrasives in the silly putty like material, it basically shaves slight inperfections off the paint while slidding over it on the lubricant. Clay, polish, then coat with wax or a sealant. Zaino and other sealants like klasse will give you longer lasting protection then wax, but some people prefer the look of wax like p21s. To each his own.
Old 06-21-2005, 10:32 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by jb26jb
Peterp agree with everything you said. Get a PC and a goot pad set and you will wonder how you did without. However, clay contains abrasives in the silly putty like material, it basically shaves slight inperfections off the paint while slidding over it on the lubricant. Clay, polish, then coat with wax or a sealant. Zaino and other sealants like klasse will give you longer lasting protection then wax, but some people prefer the look of wax like p21s. To each his own.
Thanks -- I didn't realize the clay was abrasive, I just thought it pulled the dirt out because of the stickiness. However it works, I'm always amazed at the before and after with clay. Zainos is probably the way to go -- for some reaon I have always prefered the traditional waxes, but I haven't tried Zainos. I did try Finish First, which somebody I trust had compared to Zainos, and I wasn't too impressed. I have found P21S to be fairly durable -- still beading after 4 months for a car that's always garaged, but it won't compare to the durability of a synthetic. The NXT stuff is temporary at best, so I only use it as a top coat. Normally I would never bother with something temporary, but the NXT gives amazing enough results that I now use it even though I know it's fleeting.
Old 06-29-2005, 06:20 PM
  #83  
leedav
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Default Paulina Finally Gets Shiny

Finally, after all your (thanks) advice, research, product selection, and ordering stuff... Paulina is now shiny(er)!

My selected method:

Meguiar's No. 7 Show Car Glaze Applied with the PC
Two Coats Zaino Z2
One coat Mother's Gold Pure Carnauba Wax

Old 06-29-2005, 06:45 PM
  #84  
bet
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Lee,

All good products. Beaware that the the Z2 may not offer you the ultimate durability that Zaino is so famous for, because of the use of the glaze prior to the Z2 application.
Old 06-29-2005, 07:47 PM
  #85  
leedav
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So what's your forecast on a re-wax? My car is parked inside at home and at work and survives a 10 minute commute each way...
Old 06-30-2005, 10:44 AM
  #86  
redduck996
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i've been using zymol..(the cheapy kind from Target) Maybe I should get my hands on some Zaino..

Lee, how come you used so many waxes, and in what order did you apply them?
Old 06-30-2005, 11:15 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by leedav
So what's your forecast on a re-wax? My car is parked inside at home and at work and survives a 10 minute commute each way...
It is hard to say. The oils and fillers in glazes interfere with bonding process of the Zaino. This is why Zaino recommends a “Dawn” wash prior to the application of Zaino (which would remove any and all effects the glaze provided). However, this is only for maximum durability, the use of the glaze should not effect the look but it will more than likely let the Zaino protection break down more quickly. The rate of break down will depend on a lot of environmental variables, such as heat, exposure, frequency of washes, wash soap used, the type of dirt on the car, etc. You also throw in another variable with the application of a carnauba topper. The carnauba based wax will last at best 4-6 weeks depending on the environment but I have no idea what type of effect it will have on the Zaino (in theory none). I usually get Zaino to last anywhere from 6-9 months (with no glaze use) on a daily driven car that is outside during the day. I would think you would get protection somewhere in between 6 weeks and 6 months.

Redduck996, the glaze is suppose to help hide paint imperfections (but offer no protection to the finish) and the Zaino will add protection (but not hide any imperfections). Some use a carnauba “topper” to add “depth” to the finish. Zaino has very “crisp” and reflective finish. Some really like this look and some think it makes the finish look too shiny. Carnauba based waxes in general have a more “muted” look or glow that some think has depth.

Personally for me all the toppers and such are way too much work and I don’t think I have the eye to tell any difference or the patience and/or time to prep the finish to maximize the effects.
Old 06-30-2005, 11:20 AM
  #88  
redduck996
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thanks brian.. I think I will do away with the zymol and try the zaino, even though I too dont have the eye for the shines/depth. The zymol seems to be working ok for me plus it's extremely easy for me to wax on and wax off..
Old 06-30-2005, 12:12 PM
  #89  
leedav
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My intention with the glaze was to use the lightest abrasive that would take off a few stubborn rainwater spots. next time I won't use a glaze but a pure light polish. I didn't use the clay bar because it didn't take the water spots off but the glaze did...My idea with the carnauba was a "sacrificial layer" to come off with bugs etc that get removed with bug and tar remover.

Anyway, I enjoy the process, so I don't mind trying again in a few months.
Old 07-01-2005, 11:04 AM
  #90  
redduck996
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Silly question but should I use the z2 or z5? I realize the z5 is for swirls and fine scratches but what if my car does not have very little swirls? Would it be ok to use on non swirl areas?


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