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can 996 be dropped with just springs?

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Old 04-22-2005, 10:43 PM
  #16  
gonz911
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Chad never disappoints. Thanks for the great write up. I also came to understand that the spring rate on the stock springs are similar to that of H&R? T or F I don't know but I know that as of yet it's not noticable other than cornering which is much improved. I suspect what Chad is referring to I will experience some time in the future and at which point I'll probably do what Karlooz did and go with H&R Coilovers. Thanks again!

Gerard
Old 04-23-2005, 01:54 AM
  #17  
Chads996
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Gerard,

The H&R's that I placed on my car had less coils, thus have stiffer spring rates. I am still to this day trying to get an accurate measurement vs. stock. If I come across anything, I will be sure to post. As far as basic knowledge goes, the H&R's are in fact stiffer that stock. I guess that's why I like them so much.

Chad
Old 04-23-2005, 01:42 PM
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gonz911
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Thanks Chad!
Old 04-23-2005, 06:16 PM
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penguinking
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what are the stock spring rates? differnt for C4? what about differences between 99-01 and 02-04?
Old 04-23-2005, 07:54 PM
  #20  
itradem
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Depends if you currently have the US M030 sport suspension. I am perfectly happy with the ride and handling of my H&R springs with the stock sport shocks. Most bouncy complaints seem to come from those who match the stock non-sport shocks with lowering springs.

Wear on the shocks will most likely be accelerated a bit...
Old 04-24-2005, 07:45 AM
  #21  
David in LA
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If all you really want is a lower stance and don't care about performance, ride quality, etc...and you want to do it on the cheap - just take a torch and heat up your springs. Your car will start to lower as the spring heats up and just remove the heat when you get to the desired height...nothing to take apart, no cost for new parts, and no alignment!!

This is how the guys with the POS cars in highschool used to lower their cars! The ones who had slightly more money would go to the trouble of removing the springs and cutting off a few coils with a carbide blade.

Old 04-24-2005, 02:02 PM
  #22  
Chads996
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Originally Posted by David in LA
If all you really want is a lower stance and don't care about performance, ride quality, etc...and you want to do it on the cheap - just take a torch and heat up your springs. Your car will start to lower as the spring heats up and just remove the heat when you get to the desired height...nothing to take apart, no cost for new parts, and no alignment!!

This is how the guys with the POS cars in highschool used to lower their cars! The ones who had slightly more money would go to the trouble of removing the springs and cutting off a few coils with a carbide blade.

YIKES!!! By doing that you are re-tempering the metal and changing the characteristics of the spring. Big no, no, no, no...

C.
Old 04-24-2005, 03:13 PM
  #23  
David in LA
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Originally Posted by Chads996
YIKES!!! By doing that you are re-tempering the metal and changing the characteristics of the spring. Big no, no, no, no...

C.
I know, post was meant in jest That said, when I was in highschool there were quite a few cars that were lowered using this hack method

Thanks again for the sig!
Old 04-24-2005, 03:56 PM
  #24  
Chads996
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I realized...Unfortunately, some folks here are not as versed in metalurgy that you or I may be. Just clarifying for those not in the know.

Kinda goes back to the "accord bounce".

Chad
Old 05-10-2005, 05:08 PM
  #25  
Rasta
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Chad and others - this is a great thread. While I understand much better now the value of matching dampers if installing a lowering spring kit like H&R, I'm wondering if I can get away with just an H&R kit given that:

- The C4S currently has 2K miles
- I don' plan on keeping the car more than 18 - 24 months and will only put a maximum of 8K miles in the next two years
- I'm not going to be using it for track purposes. The lowering is being done mainly for aesthetic reasons.

Couple of other questions for Chad and others (admittedly, I need to do further research / reading on all of these questions):

- Is there is "standard" H&R spring set that most people get when lowering? Or is it all a function of how low you want the car?
- If you do go with better dampers to match the H&R springs, what are the recommendations?

Many thanks.
Old 05-11-2005, 01:30 PM
  #26  
Re-animator
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For C4S Coupe H&R part # 29466 with Bilstein Sports VN7-4613 and BE5-2994 are the ticket. These Bilsteins are technically specific to the X74 package. Check shox.com.
Old 05-11-2005, 01:44 PM
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mightytaco
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Anyone have a full side shot of a car lowered with H&R springs?
Old 05-11-2005, 02:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Re-animator
For C4S Coupe H&R part # 29466 with Bilstein Sports VN7-4613 and BE5-2994 are the ticket. These Bilsteins are technically specific to the X74 package. Check shox.com.
X73 or x74?
Old 05-11-2005, 03:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by C4S Surgeon
X73 or x74?
According to a post from Alon who called Bilstein and discussed the topic with their technical department; the dampers in the after market Sport Bilsteins are valved exactly to the X74 dampers in compression and rebound which is 40% tighter than early C2 non-M030 dampers. They should match well to the increased weit of C4s since the H&R specific springs address the added weight as well. Perhaps Gert would know if there was a valving difference in X73 dampers vs. X74 kit dampers.
Old 05-11-2005, 04:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mightytaco
Anyone have a full side shot of a car lowered with H&R springs?
Check it out.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/s...980#post301980

I think the car looks outstanding with lowered springs.


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