frayed

I don't want this to be inflammatory, and I hope I have done something wrong that is the reason for the lackluster results. Here's my experience:

I've owned German cars for the last fifteen years, and bmw's my last ten. I have pretty much gone with the products that larry reynolds sells though carcareonline.com (a BMW CCA and PCA advertiser). I've pretty much used a regimen of 3M hand glaze and either blitz wax or P21S, with the latter being my favorite. I've tried all kinds of products over the years, including Zaino, Finish First, Meguires Medallion, Klasse to name the ones I remember. I keep going back to P21S, even though it doesn't last that long. I thought Rejex would be the answer.

Applied Rejex August 15 on my new-to-me 30k mile C4S. I washed the car well, glazed the entire car by hand with 3m hand glaze. It was pretty hot out, and mid eighties during the application (morning), but cool days in texas are hard to come by here in TX.

The following weekend I went to Texas World Speedway for a track day (Sat.). Coming home, I got caught in a horrific downpour. The gates of hell opened up.

Next day, I wash my car, only to find that all the beading action is gone. After it dries, the paint is squeaky to the touch, and the paint feels naked.

I believe that perhaps the glaze created a release layer, and the combination of it and the less than optimal temps caused early degredation of the Rejex in the downpour. So, with a stripped car, I went at it again on a cooler day, on 8/22. No glaze this time, just rejex and a bunch of microfiber. Everything was fine afterwards, and it stood up nicely to a single washing last weekend. Two weeks and fingers crossed this stuff will work.

Today, I get caught in rain again, during a half hour drive.

The rain stops and I wash my car this evening. Guess what?

The Rejex seems to have vanished along the immediate areas around the wheels. The water will not bead in these areas, and after washing, I could feel a distinct difference b/t the slickness of the hood/roof vs. the bumper area behind the rear wheels and the rockers in front of the rears. Those areas are now squeaky again (no slickness) and there is no beading.

I feel like I'm doing something wrong, as I have yet to read a negative comment on this stuff. Argggghhhh.

Edit: Let me add that it is my undestanding that Rejex is susceptible to removal by abrasion, and doesn't really sublime like a carnauba wax will. I'm thinking that for some reason, perhaps only on my car, it cannot withstand abrasion from heavy rains and/or we roads with lots of sand.

Lizard1

Frayed - there have been a few of us here in ATL who have not been impressed with the stuff. I guess it's hard to live up to all the hype it received. I find it to be just about on the same par as One Grand Blitz with the same ease of application. However, I am reverting back to the Carnuaba waxes as I have always been fearful of the polymer waxes for no good reason

frayed

Thanks Frank.

With all the hype, I was thinking that my experience was wholly unique.

EDIT: I'm on the wait list for the Elise, and was just over on Elisetalk to see this:

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/show...&threadid=5374

Notably:

Itzkirb

Bummer to hear it didn't work out.

Orient Express

How hot the car's body is, after the application can weaken the curing process. The surface of the car need to be below 85 degrees for the cure time. Even with an air temp of 85, a car body can get above 100 easy, and stay that way for quite a while. The cooler the car is during the curing the better, and for sure it must be below 85 during the overnight curing. After that, as you say in Texas, "bring it on"

Stevo'99

I'm in Hawaii. It is ALWAYS warm out. And it rains at least a little bit almost every day. I have RejeX'd all of my cars and swear by it. It sounds like you didn't follow instructions, which as far as I know is quite critical. I have always applied RejeX in the shade (as instructed) on cooled down metal. It will not work on a heated up car. The curing time is critical. I have a lot of cats on my 3 acres (to combat Hawaii's rat problem) and they love to sit on cars. I use car covers for the cars that matter and what I have done is after final buffing, I've covered them up with the car cover to keep anything from affecting the cure. Even my Tundra truck was covered up - one of the car covers over the cab and a tarp over the bed/bed-cover. I let them sit overnight and then buff them once more the next day after uncovering them.

It has been a couple of months and the beading effect ion the paint s as good as the first rain on it. It is not working as well on the glass, but I typically use Rain-X regularly to keep the glass beading. One of the best reasons to use RejeX is that there is much less work involved when compared to applying traditional waxes. If I have to re-apply it every 3 months, I'll be quite happy. Hopefully it will last much longer than that. One way of really noticing how well the RejeX works is how hard it is to put a car cover on by yourself. I've got the hang of it by now, but it is really slippery and you need to be on your toes to put it on without it slipping off and landing on the ground. Prior to using RejeX, it was a no-brainer.

One area that really shows a difference with RejeX is the rims. My Sport Classics used to look like crap after every time I drove it, and now they look like I just washed them after several drives. I used to wash them after every drive and trust me, they are a B*TCH to clean.

I would say try it once more, but this time do it in the shade. I'm sure you have some left in the bottle. I've done the 996, the Tundra, the Nissan Murano (soon to be sold) and one Mini and still have a little bit left in the first of 3 bottles I bought. Tomorrow I pick up the 2nd Mini at the dock for my wife and will finally break into that 2nd bottle of RejeX. Try it again!

lexpilot

The longest lasting stuff I have found is NuFinish. You must be careful not to get it on the rubber surfaces as it leaves a white film. I'm currently using Zymol on my Porsche because it does not leave white on the rubber surfaces. But, Zymol lasts only 4-6 weeks for my (demanding) taste. The overriding factor on the Porsche is that it gets examined more closely at our frequent local PCA events.
NuFinish has just a little cleaner/abrasive agent in it so it works perfectly on our daily drivers which get waxed 4-6 times a year. I'm really obsessive about keeping a wax finish on my cars so most people could go longer.

houldsworth1

I have to agree with my Hawaiian friend there. I'm not much of a car cleaning fan so the hype convinced me to buy some and apply it while my new(ish) car was still clean. Two months and nearly 3,000 miles later the beading effect is as good as ever. All have done is wash it since then.

There were a couple of spots that had bird droppings on them that had stopped beading so I have just applied some regular polish to that until the rest of the car is ready again...

No affiliation with the company but so far I am pretty happy with the results. I just hope that a few years from now people are not talking about how Rejex destroys something important the way they did with RainX and motorcycle visors...hey...handg on a mo...they sound pretty similar!

Barry

programmatore

Hey guys, where can I order RejeX? I am happy with Zaino but I want to try RejeX. I am always on the lookout for better products, which is why I switched from wax to Zaino. RejeX sounds like it is just the ticket to finally solving the brake dust problem on my Sport Classic IIs.

Thanks,

.:programmatore:.

programmatore

Nevermind. I found it. http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html I just ordered a 16 oz. bottle. I can't wait to try it out.

One question though: if I put RejeX on my wheels, can I drive my car after I wipe it off (20 minutes after it "hazes") or do I have to park the car and let it cure for 12 hours?

Thanks,

.:programmatore:.

SPR

Since I have a black car it's a real pain but I thought I would chime in also because I love p21s for wax although yes, it doesn't last that long, and secondarily it does cut down on depth and clarity after the polisher/sealer-
My regiment- I did it a few days ago in a more abbreviated fashion (only took 5h this time!)
Dawn the car using mf mit
dry car with mf towels
blackfire clay and lubricant- I ran out of the lube so I used meguires quick detail - works fine
dawn and dry again
Blackfire polish updated version for black cars applies with porter cable with white pad this time- yellow for 1st time/bad swirls/scratches
taken off with special polishing mf towls
p21s with white
taken off special mf polishing towel
check the pic-

SPR

ok I shrunk it down but it probably looks like crap will redo again if so

frayed

My second application was done at night, in my garage. Pretty sure it was below 80. Will try one more time, then I'm back to P21S or Blitz if it doesn't hold up.

996FLT6

Well washed the car day before and rejexed it the next day and waiting for it to cure and see how it goes but so far it's pretty slick like had a hard time putting the car cover on. I also put it on the rims too and see how it goes. Nice thing it's so easy to put on and rub off-no residue and doesn't leave a film on the rubber seals like others I have tried. Good luck Frayed. Mike

ignacio

frayed--

try again in january--i doubt whether you'll be able to cure your car overnite otherwise