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Also, my tech had advised me to get new outer tie rods, since the rubber on the ends was worn. Those have rubber, so am I missing other parts? Inner tie rods? etc??
Don't mistake rubber bellows on the steering rack or rubber dust boots on tie-rods for rubber bushes in suspension arms and links. Having said that, if they are torn then water and sand will quickly cause play in the ball joints inside them and the part as a whole needs to be replaced, as your tech advised.
The diagonal Arms front and rear have a ball joint on the forward end too (don't replace with the EPS version that replaces this with a polyurethane bushing as they snap!).
Regarding sway bars/anti-roll bars. Since you're looking to reduce the body roll angle but not necessarily change they way the car behaves in corners (think understeer/neutral/oversteer) my advice would be to buy a set consisting of front and rear ARB as buying only one will not only reduce the body's roll angle but also change cornering behaviour.
Eibach or H&R come to mind as offering ARB kits.
As others have mentioned at least check condition of anything rubber as well as your shock absorbers but foremost make sure the polyurethane (brown) bump stops around the shock absorbers' piston rods are not perished or even missing.
They contribute way more than one would think towards supporting the body during cornering and prevent excessive body roll.
Part #9 at the front strut in
And #8 at the rear
Lowering to RoW ride height by changing springs and fitting new bump stops will help significantly too.
Last edited by hardtailer; 07-25-2023 at 06:10 AM.
I have a set of sport sway bars (with bushjngs) that i will let go fairly cheap if u want a small upgrade. The next step would be a set of tarret adjustable sways and links. They r just like the gt3 parts.
Like others have said swap the motor mounts first as its amazing how much it swings and chech the alignment.
Just enhancing HBs work. Here is a complete quote for rear struts as an example of what a Porsche parts place can do for you. I sent them my VIN and asked them to tell me the parts I needed.
I just installed these mounts in mine. FCP has a nice DIY instal video for this but I still needed advice from this board on how to get the 13mm nuts off. Advice was correct: did not need torch. Needed 6' breaker bar. That worked.
Got under the car. I'm going to gut the whole suspension. Trying to figure out now, Koni Actives with stock springs, or B6's with stock springs or Eiback Pro Kit
Interesting. I worked with Pelican and got a parts list together. Need to find part #'s for all of the nuts/screws, but two things Pelican did not flag me as needing are "Spring Insulator" and "Coil Spring Retainer"
Make sure the current sway bar bushings are good, it doesn't take much and they dont do their job well... (This is a 10 min DIY easy task... FYI) 4 bolts.
Thanks. Gutting the whole suspension at this point, so yeah, will buy new bushings for the sway bar (and hope that money doesnt go to waste should I decide I need to upgrade the sway bar after it's all done)
Thanks. Gutting the whole suspension at this point, so yeah, will buy new bushings for the sway bar (and hope that money doesnt go to waste should I decide I need to upgrade the sway bar after it's all done)
The only reason you will need to upgrade your sway bar from oem quality is if you are going to track the car so you can correct for 996 understeer that comes purposely from the factory. You won't notice it on the street. Especially if you run a good set of grippy tires at the right tire pressures, a good alignment that doesn't go hog wild on camber so you have a large contact patch for street application and obviously have a good working suspension.
Street and track requiremeets and therefore the need for specific parts are night and day different.
FWIW, if you someday want to take it to the next level and eliminate body flex, you can put in a half cage or a Brey Krause harness. Since it's a cab, a half cage doesn't make much sense. However, the BK harness is a pretty cool and easy to use solution with a removable harness bar that allows you to use the back seats. They make one for the 996 Cab. While you may never track the car, and therefore not ever need the harness bar (removable), it's an expensive but effective solution to eliminate some flex. No question its overkill, but thought i would toss it out there as a FYI. Below is a link to BK so you can see the black bar that connects over the rear suspension.