996 Short Shifter
#16
Rennlist Member
If you are happy with the length of shifter throws but unhappy with general sloppy feel there are aftermarket solutions . The problem with the stock shifters are the plastic bushings . As they wear the sloppy feel increases because tolerance grows .
Aftermarket solutions use aluminum and metal bearings which have much tighter tolerances and they tend to stay tight because they don't wear down . Many guys say the shift action feels like a rifle bolt due to the precision.
No setup is going to fix a bad transmission . No setup is going to fix cold shifting . No setup is going to fix aging shift cables . The entire " system " has to be maintained to include engine and transmission mounts , shift cables , shifter bushings and transmission fluid .
Aftermarket solutions use aluminum and metal bearings which have much tighter tolerances and they tend to stay tight because they don't wear down . Many guys say the shift action feels like a rifle bolt due to the precision.
No setup is going to fix a bad transmission . No setup is going to fix cold shifting . No setup is going to fix aging shift cables . The entire " system " has to be maintained to include engine and transmission mounts , shift cables , shifter bushings and transmission fluid .
#17
I have this one https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99742498300.html and super happy with it
997 regular shifter is only 15% shorter than regular 996
997 regular shifter is only 15% shorter than regular 996
#18
Instructor
I also changed the transmission and engine mounts, can't tell if this helped with the shifting, but it sure helped with the car handling.
#20
I am new to wrenching and it wasn't hard. Lots of videos avail with step by step. I will note one important thing. While you CAN do the entire work without putting the car on jack stands, you must still jack up the engine far more than those who DO use jack stands. There's a long debate in a thread I posted about the experience, and some who said my theory was incorrect, but I've since validated it as true.
When you disconnect the engine mounts, you are essentially removing about 400lbs from the suspension sag, so the car will go UP even though your engine stays in one place. So putting the mounts back on will require jacking the engine UP into the chassis. And the car can whack you in the face if you're not careful as it moves upward from the force of the suspension.
So ideally use jack-stands and simply support the weight of the engine, otherwise you have to jack the engine up more than you would expect before you remove the old mounts.
The new mounts realigned my sagging exhaust tips upward about 2-3". Well worth the money on parts, and a good first time experience.
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#22
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Here is an example of an aftermarket shifter upgrades . Ben ( the manufacturer ) was a Porsche tech and started making short shifters . The business grew from grassroots to him moving to Europe . Uniwerks is the US distributor of his parts/kits . Great to deal with .
But there are several good aftermarket solutions out there . Do your homework and buy what you think is best for you .
https://www.uniwerksdesign.com/porsche-shifter-parts/
But there are several good aftermarket solutions out there . Do your homework and buy what you think is best for you .
https://www.uniwerksdesign.com/porsche-shifter-parts/
#23
Rennlist Member
Be aware that Numeric Racing cables bring a fair amount of noise into the cabin. It was too much for me even after trying multiple sound deadening solutions. I took them out and put a fresh set of factory cables/ends in the car. That plus the Shift Right kit and I think the lever/cable action is about as good as it is going to get.
#24
Race Car
Numeric + cables in mine as well as semi solid 964RS engine mounts + yellow transmission inserts... perfect
As for the cable noise I don't mind it however there is cable insulation you can get to resolve that.
As for the cable noise I don't mind it however there is cable insulation you can get to resolve that.
#26
Race Car
#27
Rennlist Member
Yeah, defining what you want in a shifter is critical.
Bet there are alot of guys that think they want a short shifter, but all they really want is to tighten up the motion and make sure it's more precise. Metal internals and new shifting cables may do the trick. Others may want more so they go with a numeric or CAE. It's personal.
I still have my original shifter after 21 years with lots of track miles. Shifting is a rhythm and balancing act. Especially on the track. Never wanted to mess it up with a short shifter. The oem shifter moves plenty fast when you need it to.
But there isn't a day that goes by that I don't think about a CAE which is a work of art and a numeric which is as well. Hoping to be able to test both sometime in the future. Until then, I'll probably replace my 21 year old plastic bits with metal.
Bet there are alot of guys that think they want a short shifter, but all they really want is to tighten up the motion and make sure it's more precise. Metal internals and new shifting cables may do the trick. Others may want more so they go with a numeric or CAE. It's personal.
I still have my original shifter after 21 years with lots of track miles. Shifting is a rhythm and balancing act. Especially on the track. Never wanted to mess it up with a short shifter. The oem shifter moves plenty fast when you need it to.
But there isn't a day that goes by that I don't think about a CAE which is a work of art and a numeric which is as well. Hoping to be able to test both sometime in the future. Until then, I'll probably replace my 21 year old plastic bits with metal.
#28
Three Wheelin'
how effective is it to replace shifter ends vs. replacing shifter cables?
#29
Rennlist Member
I did the FunctionFirst shifter rebuild and cable end kit. I swapped the shifter parts out first and was quite happy with the amount of slop that was removed. A few weeks later, I finished the kit and replaced the transmission cable ends. I'd venture say I have about 1-2mm of movement in the shifter now....but they are the original cables with 80K on them.
I'm totally happy with it and have no plans to change..
#30
Burning Brakes
997.2 GT3/RS shifter is a good (though now expensive) upgrade.
Personally I’d go with a stock 997 shifter, take the alleged 15% decrease in shifter travel, and add a Function First upgrade kit.
As others have said, motor mounts, transmission mounts, shift cables and transmission fluid all need to in tip top condition before attempting a short shift.
Personally I’d go with a stock 997 shifter, take the alleged 15% decrease in shifter travel, and add a Function First upgrade kit.
As others have said, motor mounts, transmission mounts, shift cables and transmission fluid all need to in tip top condition before attempting a short shift.