Yet Another MOSTly BOSE thread
#1
Yet Another MOSTly BOSE thread
It's an adventure, really. The last couple installs I've done have been a lot of fun and complexity - a Saab 9-3 and an Audi A4(B7) with factory nav...but wow, this was the MOST fun.
This isn't a how-too thread, because there lots out there.
I have a couple of questions, and some observations.
2003 C4 Cab with MOST and BOSE.
CDR23, no extra CD player, Fibre optic connections to amp in the frunk.
I used a Metra surround for a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX. (the Head Unit)
I used the Connects2 CT51-PO04 (the "Harness"). It has more connections than you need because it has ISO connectors too,
it is pretty straightforward. What was kind of disappointing is that like the cheaper fibre optic options, you still lose the fader control with the expensive option. The Harness only takes the rear RCA output from the Head Unit and converts to fibre optic for the amp (more on that later)
On the plus side, it still sounds really good with the existing speakers.
Moving the HVAC control is not difficult. With the side panels off the console and everything out up above, it's easy to reroute the wires. Others have said it's a tight fit, I had lots of slack. The new Metra surround and cubby fit perfectly around the HVAC (held by screws), and it's held in place by the side trim when it snaps back in.
I used illumination from the cigarette lighter.
I used constant and switched power and ground from the 4 pin phone connector that was in the console, just as so many have said it would be.
Since you have modify the upper bracket to fit double-din anyway, it's not a completely reversible install without a new bracket, so I will be converting that phone connector to a 3 pin for a neater install.
Parking brake wire is just grounded to a bolt in the lower part of the console.
I had two easily solvable issues:
1) the Metra kit comes with a bracket, like a two-piece clamp, that goes around the radio. Apparently on earlier cars that held it in place. On mine it allows almost a quarter inch of movement. I saw another install where someone used additional screws and just drilled through the (now modified anyway) OEM bracket for a rock solid install. I'll be doing that.
2) I found lots of posts on various forums about people having trouble with Apple CarPlay audio. I finally found someone troubleshooting a Smart Fortwo installation who figured it out, because he only had two speakers. CarPlay only uses front speakers from the Head Unit. When I finally figured that out, I pulled it out, switched from rear to front and CarPlay worked perfectly.
One more bothersome issue:
I installed the mic in the factory location. To do that I removed the instrument cluster for a neat wiring installation and that also gave me an opportunity to clean the inside of my cluster lenses (not sure, but looks like water may have seeped in at some point) so they look great. Got the mic in and wire pulled - but when I put it back together the hazard switch was stuck on. I apparently pulled to hard on it taking it out and damaged it. Damn.
I'll be pulling it out to clean up the wiring when I install a back up camera, which brings up my two questions:
I've seen a pic with the pins for (black) plug A indicated there is a grey/pink wire for speed, and a blue/black wire for reverse. Does anyone know if
a) there is any benefit to connecting that speed sensor to the Head Unit, or is it just one of the nannies from Pioneer to keep my unit from working when I'm moving? I thought maybe it would improve GPS accuracy (I think it was for speed-sensitive volume on the CDR23).
b) that blue/black wire IS a reverse signal, and if so can I use that as the signal to power the camera and switch the source instead of tapping into the reverse light?
This isn't a how-too thread, because there lots out there.
I have a couple of questions, and some observations.
2003 C4 Cab with MOST and BOSE.
CDR23, no extra CD player, Fibre optic connections to amp in the frunk.
I used a Metra surround for a Pioneer DMH-W4660NEX. (the Head Unit)
I used the Connects2 CT51-PO04 (the "Harness"). It has more connections than you need because it has ISO connectors too,
it is pretty straightforward. What was kind of disappointing is that like the cheaper fibre optic options, you still lose the fader control with the expensive option. The Harness only takes the rear RCA output from the Head Unit and converts to fibre optic for the amp (more on that later)
On the plus side, it still sounds really good with the existing speakers.
Moving the HVAC control is not difficult. With the side panels off the console and everything out up above, it's easy to reroute the wires. Others have said it's a tight fit, I had lots of slack. The new Metra surround and cubby fit perfectly around the HVAC (held by screws), and it's held in place by the side trim when it snaps back in.
I used illumination from the cigarette lighter.
I used constant and switched power and ground from the 4 pin phone connector that was in the console, just as so many have said it would be.
Since you have modify the upper bracket to fit double-din anyway, it's not a completely reversible install without a new bracket, so I will be converting that phone connector to a 3 pin for a neater install.
Parking brake wire is just grounded to a bolt in the lower part of the console.
I had two easily solvable issues:
1) the Metra kit comes with a bracket, like a two-piece clamp, that goes around the radio. Apparently on earlier cars that held it in place. On mine it allows almost a quarter inch of movement. I saw another install where someone used additional screws and just drilled through the (now modified anyway) OEM bracket for a rock solid install. I'll be doing that.
2) I found lots of posts on various forums about people having trouble with Apple CarPlay audio. I finally found someone troubleshooting a Smart Fortwo installation who figured it out, because he only had two speakers. CarPlay only uses front speakers from the Head Unit. When I finally figured that out, I pulled it out, switched from rear to front and CarPlay worked perfectly.
One more bothersome issue:
I installed the mic in the factory location. To do that I removed the instrument cluster for a neat wiring installation and that also gave me an opportunity to clean the inside of my cluster lenses (not sure, but looks like water may have seeped in at some point) so they look great. Got the mic in and wire pulled - but when I put it back together the hazard switch was stuck on. I apparently pulled to hard on it taking it out and damaged it. Damn.
I'll be pulling it out to clean up the wiring when I install a back up camera, which brings up my two questions:
I've seen a pic with the pins for (black) plug A indicated there is a grey/pink wire for speed, and a blue/black wire for reverse. Does anyone know if
a) there is any benefit to connecting that speed sensor to the Head Unit, or is it just one of the nannies from Pioneer to keep my unit from working when I'm moving? I thought maybe it would improve GPS accuracy (I think it was for speed-sensitive volume on the CDR23).
b) that blue/black wire IS a reverse signal, and if so can I use that as the signal to power the camera and switch the source instead of tapping into the reverse light?
The following 2 users liked this post by Emefef:
damage98MO (08-04-2022),
neck (12-19-2022)
#2
If you replaced a radio with navigation there is a black/blue wire that is the reverse lights. Not sure about a standard radio though. It's easy to check, if you have that wire and it's energized when the car is in reverse then it's the right one.
The grey/pink is a speed signal that was used for the speed sensitive volume.
The grey/pink is a speed signal that was used for the speed sensitive volume.
#3
If you replaced a radio with navigation there is a black/blue wire that is the reverse lights. Not sure about a standard radio though. It's easy to check, if you have that wire and it's energized when the car is in reverse then it's the right one.
The grey/pink is a speed signal that was used for the speed sensitive volume.
The grey/pink is a speed signal that was used for the speed sensitive volume.
The blue/black wire is in the car harness, but just wasn't used for the standard radio. Since the wire to the reverse lights is also blue/black, I figured it was the same.
I will test it when I pull everything out to clean up the wiring, but it looks like that's probably going to make for a nice clean install without tapping into the wiring harness at the light.