kincedn9

anybody know any good dynos in the Philly region? I’m all about providing the best data that is going to have the best impact for our community, but I unfortunately do have a full time job with little free time and there will need to be some ease of getting this stuff done.

open to any suggestions. Having fabspeed do it is the most convenient, but will be open to scrutiny.

Prairiedawg

I would just do in at the same time of day with similar conditions. You are more likely to get a better result than the same day. Same day: cool in the morning, lower humidity, maybe. Afternoon is probably much warmer, dewpoint may be higher or lower etc. Shoot for the same time of day both times. Even successive dyno pulls vary minutes apart from one another. Just try to duplicate the conditions as best as possible.

EVOMMM

Look at this point any pulls posted would be welcomed even to give us a baseline figure
finding real figures for this setup is all over the place
and fabspeed is no help at all

GC996

This is why we never see meaningful data on mods.

1. The mods are expensive,
2. manufacturers don't want to give away free samples to test because it's not in their best interest if the test is not positive
3. and its a PITA and costly to dyno them part by part.

Not to mention, if a company or organization does get a free sample from a partner, sponsor, supporter, the last thing they want to do is show any warts.

As a result, it has always been an expensive guessing game.

Headers ~$2k
Cats ~$2k
Mufflers ~$2k
Plenum ~$1k
TB ~$0.3k
Software ~$1k
Labor ~$1.7k
Total Cost ~$10,000

Estimated performance gains: ~ 10-20 HP/TQ

$500 to $1,000 per HP/TQ gain.

Tr4ckD4ys

How we’re looking OP? Didn’t you want to have this stuff on the car by now and dyno’d?

Prairiedawg

Update?

Yogibara

Jumping in on this one guys. I'm currently in talks with Fabspeed to hook me up with headers, x-pipe and exhaust. And no, my primary reason is NOT for performance but rather because I've been busting my *** rebuilding this damn car and I want it to run great, look good and sound AWESOME. Plus, these kinds of bolt-on mods will increase the re-sale value, ESPECIALLY with an IMS solution, no borescoring and, like me, had it bored out to a 4.0. Plus, I know that I can "drop" this whole power unit into a new body at any point too cuz on a high-mileage examples you're really paying for the engine anyway, right? I mean that was before the Pandemic but still holds true somewhat.

My only decision at this point is to run it cat-less, keep my stock cats, and swap them come annual inspection time. This will not be a daily so emissions can suck it.

De Jeeper

Imho a 200 cel cat is where it is. No cats mean the car smells like raw fuel all the time. 200 cel cost $ but basically the same performance as no cat and it will pass emmisions in 49 states.

Yogibara

The engine is in the back so as long as you're moving forward the smell is a problem for the cars behind you. 😎

RngTrtl

This is still dumb. You literally lose nothing with good cats (200 cell)...

3/98 911 coupe

im running the fabspeed catless x pipe with the cheaters that I got from squirrel 🐿, passed inspection no issues. Also more weight eliminated out of the rear. If the ignition system plugs are good not that bad raw fuel smell. They said that Jake Raby FSI will be coming out with exhaust, headers etc, that would be sold thru ln engineering. I think where you will have to spend some money on the build will be the tune.

Yogibara

I think you missed something. I already have good cats. I’m choosing not to use them and will got straight if I see fit. I don’t need to spend any more money on 200 cell cats if I don’t need them. However, if I needed cats I would definitely go with a solution like that.

TexSquirrel

IMHO, I'd run 200 Cell cats.
I've tried the catless path, and was happy.
But knowing the EPA I expected them to start coming down on everyday guys.
I went back to stock cats and REALLY missed the catless sound.
But like De Jeepers said, 200 Cell cats will pass Texas emissions test and reduce the fuel smell, which I actually like.
Yes, you can cheat the Texas emissions test.
But with a good quality 200 Cell there is no reason to cheat by using the Fabspeed mini-cats.
I'm going to run cats until they get stolen.
Then I might consider a catless x-pipe, unless the EPA is going to hand out 200 cell cats. Ha!.

BRS-LN

Or… an X pipe with V banded 180 cell CARB approved removable cats that can be swapped out to an “off highway” configuration with one wrench and 15 minutes of effort :-)

kincedn9

2 year update for anybody still subscribed. Had the install done and have lived with it now for some time. It feels and sounds awesome. Like an engine rejuvenation. Much more pedal responsive. Better low end power feel. Haven’t had the dyno to objectify it all, but from my seat did not really need it to know there is a considerable difference in how it drives.

The tuning software I think adds a bit as well. As much as it can for a NA engine. There are some factory software bits that seem to limit things ( the little actuator on the clutch pedal for instance) removing speed governors, and helping the écu manage the new bigger throttle body and intakes. This whole power kit really opens it up making the most out of the intake side with the cold air intakes, larger intake, IPD plenum… and then on the exhaust side manifolds, cross pipe, sport cats, sport mufflers. I could definitely tell the écu was thinking about it all and took a little bit of time to recalibrate, but it’s definitely dialed in now and feels great. Much better low end feel. Before it felt a little sluggish on the low end now it’s “peppy”. The exhaust and intake sound really good. Does not drone at all. Can be quiet when driving 3500rpm. Above and when really getting on it, it screams and have really enjoyed the occasional tunnel blast. The sound it makes in the tunnel, puts a smile on my face every time.

it wasn’t cheap, but it was a comprehensive kit, the fit and finish of it is high quality. And it really did transform my c4s, giving it more life and likely convincing me to hold on to it for a while instead of upgrading to a newer model. It’s all bolt on bolt off non destructive install so can be switched back to factory oem if ever need be.