Athos

Does anyone know the frequency response for the door woofers?

Thanks!

ZuffenZeus

Depends on your system... is it BOSE, HiFi, or base? Analog or MOST?

What year model of 996?

Athos

Whoops

Sorry I was in a hurry...

I have a 1999 C2 with the HiFi option. Analog...

thanks

J

peterp

I don't know the frequency response, but they are woofers and and not subwoofer drivers, so they don't go super-low like a subwoofer driver would. They are 2-ohm, so if you want to replace them using the stock amp, you probably need 2-ohm to maintain the proper balance. Tang sub drivers can be made to fit, but they are 4-ohm and the door enclosure isn't really suited to handling lower frequencies (it can rattle at higher volume with the tangs and you have to increase low bass eq because of the Tang 4-ohm rating). The dash and rear OEM speakers are crap (usually dried out and coming apart), but the door woofers are actually high quality with a rubber surround.

My experience is that you are better off leaving the door woofers in (will blend best with the mains and not overwhelm the door enclosure) and try to find a place to mount a sub elsewhere if you want to supplement the bass.

ZuffenZeus

Unfortunately, Porsche doesn't offer specifications on speaker performance like aftermarket companies that are competing for sales. However, I had the analog HiFi system option and I can say that the system itself fairs well in the mid and upper frequencies but suffers in the bass range. I would speculate that the frequency curve drops off at at around 80 Hz leaving very little sub bass reproduction. The best way to know how your speakers can perform is by feeding pink noise though the system with a spectrum analyzer. This will show real world performance on all octaves and db ranges across the frequency spectrum.

I wouldn't expect you to purchase a professional setup, but you can download pink noise from YouTube and run a free spectrum analyzer with your iPhone. That will give you a decent analysis that you're looking for. Another reason these systems don't sound great in these cars is because of the ambient noise these cars produce. This adds a lot challenge for the audio system to overcome.

c didy

[QUOTE=b3freak;18090053 Another reason these systems don't sound great in these cars is because of the ambient noise these cars produce. This adds a lot challenge for the audio system to overcome.[/QUOTE]


So true. I've never had a 911 sound great while driving but they can be okay when you turn the motor off and sit. Works for me.

TheUnscented

Wow. Seems like you know your sound. I’ve also got a non-Bose ‘99 C2.
head unit: prior owner replaced a android Atoto A6 ( I like it and will keep)
amp: factory amp in place but bypassed by prior owner (I’m looking to up grade: 5 channel)
door speakers/woofers: originals in place (was planning on replacing-you think good?)
dash speakers: original Hertz. Seem to be degraded
rear speakers: prior owner replaced w Rockford Fosgate Punch 142s

Budget is about $1000. Have 3-D printed 4” speaker adapters ready to go. Ok w bailing on door subs for powered subwoofer if recommended. Car is very very far from original and very loud so sound quality not paramount. Thanks in advance.

ZuffenZeus

"Good sound" is very subjective. However, replacing the drivers with new higher performance alternatives is the cheapest and easiest way to improve the sound in a car. If you're looking to improve the sound chamber (i.e. interior cabin of the car), then you'll need to add noise absorption material in the doors, under the carpet, and even behind the plastic panels. This will minimize a lot of the unwanted ambient noise and lower the noise floor in the interior of the car.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise_...ng%20monitored.

Lots of people equate booming bass with a "great sound systems", but I'm of a different camp. I want clean sound across the spectrum that is best represents the type of music or vocal performance I'm playing. Sub bass, if not controlled or tuned properly can create unwanted overtones that bleed into the mid range causing it very hard to understand the voice frequencies. Some overtones are natural and appreciated, but some cause tension or dissonance. Those should be avoided.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overtone

The original factory system in my 1997 Ford F-150 sounds cleaner than the modern BOSE system in my 987. Listening to talk radio is much easier in the F150, but the ambient noise of the 987 along with the booming BOSE subwoofer makes it hard to hear vocals driving down the road. I really don't expect much out of radios in the Porsches because the sound of a flat 6 rear engine is what it's about to me.

Ironically, my father installed Becker radios back in the 70s. He was a military trained electronics engineer. He felt Porsche had a big advantage when it came to good car stereos back then. They were among the few that had separate amplifiers to improve speaker performance. Integrated amplifiers in the head-units sucked back then in comparison. The 80s changed all that!

Mike Murphy

I’m guessing the frequency response of a 4” woofer is not below 100Hz. In-car response could be below 100Hz, because of ‘small room’ benefits, but the best thing to do with bass for a car is a real subwoofer.

As for the high end, up to 20,000Hz, the speaker system is probably not doing it. Replacement drivers of high quality probably can do that no problem.

TheUnscented

When I first got the car, it was nearly open headers--I wore noise-cancelling headphones for any drive over 10 minutes. Had the exhaust rebuilt with cut-outs and this winter I stripped the entire interior out and put noise absorbtion materiel throughout the car. Now I can hear the stereo finally & it's time for a bit of an upgrade. Anything above mediocre grade will probably be wasted on me. "Decent" is fine.

ZuffenZeus

I would bet most people that go straight pipes or extremely loud exhaust systems are young. Older, wiser owners have realized that hearing is a terrible thing to lose.