Control arms and struts- order of replacement?
#1
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I’m getting ready to replace my control arms, drop links, tie rods, sway bar bushings, and struts.
Does it make sense to do all at the same time or can I batch certain work together without having to do much re-work?
It would seem that struts, drop links, and perhaps tie rods could be done in one batch while control arms and sway bar bushings could be done in another.
I need to consider breaking up the job due to my schedule.
Bonus question…. How do I tell if I need new springs? The rear sits a bit lower than the front. Car is a 2004 cab with 75k miles.
Does it make sense to do all at the same time or can I batch certain work together without having to do much re-work?
It would seem that struts, drop links, and perhaps tie rods could be done in one batch while control arms and sway bar bushings could be done in another.
I need to consider breaking up the job due to my schedule.
Bonus question…. How do I tell if I need new springs? The rear sits a bit lower than the front. Car is a 2004 cab with 75k miles.
#2
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Having recently done all this I would do it all at once. You could save the sway bar rubber and drop links for another time tho. Harbor freight sells a inner tie rod tool cheap and it works well. springs don't wear out
#3
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Thanks! I was already planning to pick up the ball joint separator from harbor freight. The tie rod end tool is cheap enough to warrant purchasing as well.
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theres another great cheap tool you'll need in order to install the crimp style clamps for the rubber boots. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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One other benefit of doing it all at once is not having to do multiple alignments.
#7
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#8
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I got the drivers side suspension all disassembled. Only the drop link bushings we’re cracked. The diagonal control arm bushing is pretty soft. No question that it meeds replacing. The ball joint on the lower control arm (coffin arm) is fully intact. It’s softer than the new one but seems ok. I didn’t break apart the ball joint on the passenger side but it looks good visually.
Is there a good reason to replace the lower control arms? If it’ll improve handling, I’ll do it but you know what they say about things that aren’t broke…
Is there a good reason to replace the lower control arms? If it’ll improve handling, I’ll do it but you know what they say about things that aren’t broke…
#9
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I got the drivers side suspension all disassembled. Only the drop link bushings we’re cracked. The diagonal control arm bushing is pretty soft. No question that it meeds replacing. The ball joint on the lower control arm (coffin arm) is fully intact. It’s softer than the new one but seems ok. I didn’t break apart the ball joint on the passenger side but it looks good visually.
Is there a good reason to replace the lower control arms? If it’ll improve handling, I’ll do it but you know what they say about things that aren’t broke…
Is there a good reason to replace the lower control arms? If it’ll improve handling, I’ll do it but you know what they say about things that aren’t broke…
In my opinion, it is a good idea to replace these. Even if you do t see wear, the parts are likely 20yrs old. The rubber and plastics are not what they should be. Having done all these same tasks on my car within the last 12mo, I can confirm noticing a big difference now.
I agree that you don’t need to worry about replacing springs. However, check shocks and engine mounts. These last two created the most noticeable difference in my car when I finally replaced them.
#10
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OP - Like chris8382 says, the control arms are aged and not fresh. If the original durometer of the bushings was 80 (for example) when new and now it’s at a 50, I can’t tell the difference; but the car can. Anything with rubber should be suspect. When I totally refreshed my suspension, the car handled brilliantly once again.
From a cost/benefit perspective, tidying up the suspension is universally recognized as the best way to improve the performance of our na cars.
From a cost/benefit perspective, tidying up the suspension is universally recognized as the best way to improve the performance of our na cars.
Last edited by hatchetf15; 10-29-2021 at 10:37 PM.
#11
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In my opinion, it is a good idea to replace these. Even if you do t see wear, the parts are likely 20yrs old. The rubber and plastics are not what they should be. Having done all these same tasks on my car within the last 12mo, I can confirm noticing a big difference now.
I agree that you don’t need to worry about replacing springs. However, check shocks and engine mounts. These last two created the most noticeable difference in my car when I finally replaced them.
I agree that you don’t need to worry about replacing springs. However, check shocks and engine mounts. These last two created the most noticeable difference in my car when I finally replaced them.
#12
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elwoodcg,
Where will you bring the car for an alignment afterwards? While I am not replacing anything this year, a suspension refresh for my car is on the list. It looks like everything is stock, with the front and rear control arms still covered in cosmoline (or whatever the factory used). Cruising through VT yesterday I could feel the tired suspension.
Where will you bring the car for an alignment afterwards? While I am not replacing anything this year, a suspension refresh for my car is on the list. It looks like everything is stock, with the front and rear control arms still covered in cosmoline (or whatever the factory used). Cruising through VT yesterday I could feel the tired suspension.
#13
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elwoodcg,
Where will you bring the car for an alignment afterwards? While I am not replacing anything this year, a suspension refresh for my car is on the list. It looks like everything is stock, with the front and rear control arms still covered in cosmoline (or whatever the factory used). Cruising through VT yesterday I could feel the tired suspension.
Where will you bring the car for an alignment afterwards? While I am not replacing anything this year, a suspension refresh for my car is on the list. It looks like everything is stock, with the front and rear control arms still covered in cosmoline (or whatever the factory used). Cruising through VT yesterday I could feel the tired suspension.
If your suspension is feeling rough or tired, definitely check into the struts at a minimum. I can’t say I was too surprised at their condition when I pulled them out but it’s amazing how the previous owner(s) let them get this far. The bump stops are totally gone.
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#15
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I’m new to this game but my experience this far is to visually and physically inspect the components where possible before diving in. If your struts are original, consider starting there along with sway bar end links.
I’m going all in but, in hindsight, part of me would like to feel the difference each upgrade makes.
For those following along, I had a hard time getting the springs compressed with the HF spring compressors. The springs are pretty short and I wasn’t confident all the tension was off. My regular shop was happy to do the job. I’ll post the cost when I get them back.