C4S Engine Project
#46
Pro
Thread Starter
Usually the invoice states what was done. If the guides are the same and the springs are all the same then all this work could have been easily done by you at home. Just need a spring compressor and a vacumme hose with a drill, nothing more. I did this myself on my engine.
For a reasonable fee, I could have had him build my short block, but I decided I want to do that.
#47
Pro
Thread Starter
Here's a preview for the next step which is now the start of building the engine. Hopefully, I will get this done by Sunday.
The following 4 users liked this post by amargari:
Charles Navarro (11-18-2021),
JohnCA58 (11-18-2021),
Mike Murphy (11-19-2021),
plpete84 (11-18-2021)
#48
Pro
Thread Starter
Missing from the picture above is the Thrust Bearings. I have those and won't forget them in the install.
#50
Pro
Thread Starter
#51
Pro
Thread Starter
The build begins!!! Up until this point it has been teardown and cleaning, Now I am finally putting something together for good.
After work tonight I put in the Raby DVD and rewatched the 1st part and put the crankshaft carrier together. I took my time and everything went as planned. Once it was all put together, the endplay checked out and the crank spins like it should.
Now I put the case in a trash bag to keep it safe and clean and wait for LN Engineering to return my block and the rest of the parts, It should be any day now.
Lower half with Piston Squirters and Bearings in place lubed up and ready to go.
Crankshaft with assembly lube.
Crankshaft in the lower case. Upper case has the squirters and bearings in place and assembly lube on the bearings.
Here are the ARP bolts.
Case assembled and waiting for the bolts.
Checked endplay after torquing everything down. Right at spec at .004
Here is the finished product.
After work tonight I put in the Raby DVD and rewatched the 1st part and put the crankshaft carrier together. I took my time and everything went as planned. Once it was all put together, the endplay checked out and the crank spins like it should.
Now I put the case in a trash bag to keep it safe and clean and wait for LN Engineering to return my block and the rest of the parts, It should be any day now.
Lower half with Piston Squirters and Bearings in place lubed up and ready to go.
Crankshaft with assembly lube.
Crankshaft in the lower case. Upper case has the squirters and bearings in place and assembly lube on the bearings.
Here are the ARP bolts.
Case assembled and waiting for the bolts.
Checked endplay after torquing everything down. Right at spec at .004
Here is the finished product.
The following 2 users liked this post by amargari:
plpete84 (11-19-2021),
wildbilly32 (12-08-2021)
#53
Pro
Thread Starter
No real progress as I am waiting on the block and other parts from LN Engineering. The good news is I saved over $200 on products I ordered with my block with their Cyber Monday sale this week.
They did let me know that the block is done and waiting for the QC steps before they ship it out.
They did let me know that the block is done and waiting for the QC steps before they ship it out.
The following 2 users liked this post by amargari:
e30rapidic (12-02-2021),
GC996 (12-01-2021)
#54
Pro
Thread Starter
This just came in today!! The block and the rest of my LN Items. I now have everything I need to do the rebuild.
The following 5 users liked this post by amargari:
Charles Navarro (12-06-2021),
dporto (12-08-2021),
Mike Murphy (12-08-2021),
plpete84 (12-06-2021),
wildbilly32 (12-08-2021)
#55
Pro
Thread Starter
Did a little prep work today.
The next step will be for me to check the end gap of all the piston rings. I am doing this now, while the engine block and associated parts are in the warmth of my basement. At some point, I will need to bring the partially assembled engine into the garage and it is not consistently heated out there. I have a space heater I will run, but it will not be as warm as in my basement.
Lastly, if you are going to do this, get the Kimwipes in the blue box. They are thicker and bigger.
Here is what the block looks like out of the shipping box.
After cleaning with soap and hot water.
Close up after the soapy bath.
Bores wiped down with brake cleaner and Kimwipes. The Kimwipes came out spotless.
Here are the Kimwipes you want.
- Weighed all the pistons, pins, and ring packs.
- Cleaned and scrubbed the bores and block with soap and hot water
- Wiped down the bores and mating surfaces using Kimwipes and acetone/brake parts cleaner.
- All but one rod was 546 grams with 1 rod being 545 grams.
- 4 pistons were 431 grams with 2 pistons being 432 grams
- All 6 pins were 98 grams
- All 6 ring packs were 32 grams
The next step will be for me to check the end gap of all the piston rings. I am doing this now, while the engine block and associated parts are in the warmth of my basement. At some point, I will need to bring the partially assembled engine into the garage and it is not consistently heated out there. I have a space heater I will run, but it will not be as warm as in my basement.
Lastly, if you are going to do this, get the Kimwipes in the blue box. They are thicker and bigger.
Here is what the block looks like out of the shipping box.
After cleaning with soap and hot water.
Close up after the soapy bath.
Bores wiped down with brake cleaner and Kimwipes. The Kimwipes came out spotless.
Here are the Kimwipes you want.
#57
Rennlist Member
I didn’t catch this, but have you considered having the rotating assembly balanced?
I know that having equal weights of pistons and rods can help, but unless the crank has the counterweight correction in place (either drilling or filling), the rotating balance could still be off.
I know that having equal weights of pistons and rods can help, but unless the crank has the counterweight correction in place (either drilling or filling), the rotating balance could still be off.
#58
Pro
Thread Starter
I didn’t catch this, but have you considered having the rotating assembly balanced?
I know that having equal weights of pistons and rods can help, but unless the crank has the counterweight correction in place (either drilling or filling), the rotating balance could still be off.
I know that having equal weights of pistons and rods can help, but unless the crank has the counterweight correction in place (either drilling or filling), the rotating balance could still be off.
The following 2 users liked this post by amargari:
Mike Murphy (12-08-2021),
slaugherhouse (12-09-2021)
#59
Pro
Thread Starter
Quick update for today. I started checking the ring end gaps and they are all too tight so far. They are coming in at around 0.014 for the top ring and 0.011 for the second ring. Ideally, they should be at 0.018 for the top ring and 0.019/0.020 for the middle ring. To fix this, I ordered a ring filer from Amazon today.
I am hoping to get to work on step 2 of the crankshaft carrier case assembly tomorrow.
I am hoping to get to work on step 2 of the crankshaft carrier case assembly tomorrow.
#60
Pro
Thread Starter
The last two days have been productive.
Yesterday my ring filer arrived so I filed all my rings and set the gaps. I now have the top ring at .018 and the middle ring at .019. That should be perfect. I also put on my big boy engine building pants and pulled out the dial bore gauge and the outside micrometer to verify the rod clearances. They all came in at either 0.0021 or <!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->0.0020 which is good.
Everything I needed to gap the rings.
Yesterday my ring filer arrived so I filed all my rings and set the gaps. I now have the top ring at .018 and the middle ring at .019. That should be perfect. I also put on my big boy engine building pants and pulled out the dial bore gauge and the outside micrometer to verify the rod clearances. They all came in at either 0.0021 or <!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->0.0020 which is good.
Everything I needed to gap the rings.